1994 850 non turbo will not start

Post by **biggytwo** » 03 Nov 2007, 09:02

Hello:

We have a 850 wagon now with 223K miles on it. Check engine light came on and it is the A3 code of 213 and an A6 code of 241. I cleared these and the car started right up, the check engine light went off and I shut it off. Then the next day, the engine turns over but will not start. (Note; I have cleared these codes three times already in the past 3 months and the car ran fine for a month or so before the check engine light came back on).

Neighbor youth is a local mechanic and we confirmed there is spark to the wires, there is a smell of gas - like it is flooded - and he recommends pulling the plugs out to allow it to dry out. Possible cause might be the plug wires too - arcing out inside under the plug cover. I am not sure when the last time they were changed. They do look like OEM brands though.

So, two questions: is there anything else to look for? Could it be a fuel pump relay pumping too much gas at start? I hesitate to do the TB cleaning without it starting up now, or could this be the cause? The funny thing is, I went to pick up the TB cleaner, flame trap, and gaskets to do the job today.

Second, I would like to order a set of wires for it for sure - from FCP Groton - and the sticker on the engine indicates a B5254S. Is PN 9135700 the correct one for this engine? (They are closed today and I would like to order on line). S# of engine is 173012. I tuned the car up a few months ago with plugs, cap and rotor - but not wires.

Thanks, in advance, for any suggestions and replies.

Steve

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 03 Nov 2007, 15:06

Steve, whatever bougicord (OEM) wires fcpgroton sells for your car is what you want. Really, don't buy anything else. Our cars don't like after market wires, not even Bosch. In regards to your non-start problem, A-3 213 is a left rear ABS sensor not responding issue (you can check to see if it's shorted or the connector is dirty, etc.) but this would not cause your car to not start. The A-6 241 code is EGR system flow too low in system. I would check the EGR and clean all the related hoses. This in itself could keep your car from starting. Good luck!

Post by **biggytwo** » 08 Nov 2007, 06:53

Thank you for the suggestion regarding the EGR and hoses. I am ready to remove the throttle body for cleaning, which is really dirty, but is there a trick to remove it after taking out the four bolts? Brass hammer and a few taps - or would I have to order a replacement TB if I did that?

Also, please be aware that there is a long tube going from the flame trap holder that appears that it might be rubber. It isn't, and when I moved it just a bit, it snapped in two. I have a replacement tube on order. It goes from the flame trap holder, (and the small vacuum nipple breaks off easy, I have one of those ordered too) to the oil trap. Without crawling under the car yet to see where it goes, is the tube easy to replace at the oil trap?

Last, the flame trap holder itself was clogged at the small inlet - and the flame trap was indeed dirty. Would this prevent the car from starting too? A set of plug wires were also ordered, since I am not sure when the last time they were changed (Volvo stamped on them).

Thanks for all suggestions. PS: I also have a Haynes book on order - FCP seems to have everything at a decent price too.

Steve

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 08 Nov 2007, 11:09

First, the no start condition:
When you started the car to make sure the dash lights went out, did you immediately shut the engine off? If so, you might not have built up enough oil pressure to activate the hydraulic valves. By all means, clean the plugs and put them back in, and get a full charge on your battery. Then, floor the gas pedal - keep it there- and start cranking the engine over. Keep it up for a minute or so until you hear a sputter, then take your foot off the gas and keep cranking until the engine catches and sputters to life.

Oil breather system:
Plugged PCV lines will not keep the engine from starting, but will cause the crankcase to over pressurize and start blowing seals. The oil separator is under the intake manifold. It cannot be reached from below, so the intake manifold needs to come off to replace the broken line. Not a terrible job, but you will need a torque wrench to get the manifold back on. Also a good time to replace the oil separator box and the line that goes to the top of the engine next to the oil filler cap.

Klaus

cyclmck · Post by **cyclmck** » 08 Nov 2007, 19:17

Klausc wrote: If so, you might not have built up enough oil pressure to activate the hydraulic valves. By all means, clean

The lifters are hydraulic ,but the valves are opened directly from the camshafts and closed by the springs. Lack of oil pressure will not affect the opening and closing of the valves, it will just be noisy and cause excess wear.

Post by **biggytwo** » 08 Nov 2007, 22:09

Thanks Klaus (and MadeInJapan and cyclmck) for the ideas and help of what to look for.

Yes, after the codes were reset, I started the car up, I let it run for about 15 seconds, and I then shut it off. Then, on the next day, when it turned over and would not start there was a smell of gas like it was flooded. I held the accelerator pedal down for about 15 seconds while cranking the engine and let it up when it almost started - but I probably made the mistake of letting up too soon. Then the smell of gas and I gave up.

During the week I had some time and removed the plugs to allow any gasoline to evaporate from the cylinders. Plugs look OK, but two of the plug wires seem to be wet near the top.

Fortunately I received the parts today - and the Haynes repair book - and I will be able to replace the flame trap holder, plug wires, and clean up the throttle body unit - if I can chisel it off / and clean the EGR area tomorrow. As for the broken tube to the oil trap/separator, I think I will connect the broken pieces with a hose and clamps for now until I find more time to take the intake manifold off (plus I need more parts for this for the proper repair).

Torque wrench I have, tools I have, and now book I have..it is time I need. And by the way, what does the oil separator do anyways? I don't think any of the US cars have them.

Thanks
Steve

Post by **matthew1** » 08 Nov 2007, 22:59

You can see if wires are arcing to the block by running the engine at night and lifting the hood. The darker the better... garage with lights off, and 850's headlights off.

Good luck with the fixes, let us know how they go.

Post by **biggytwo** » 09 Nov 2007, 13:20

Klaus had it nailed - way to go! After I removed the throttle body with a little tap, I took it off, cleaned it to a like new condition with TB cleaner and a fine brass brush. The hole for the EGR valve had a big chunk of build up in it, which probably kept making the check engine light on (EGR system flow too slow), and I took dental type tools and gently pulled the junk out and vacuumed it out, so it would not fall into the valve.

New plug wires went in good, but when I tried to start it, it just turned over. I followed the advise that Klaus gave me and it started up. (Good thing I charged the battery up last night). For now I put a rubber hose and clamp over the broken oil trap / flame trap tube to hold it together until I have time to remove the intake manifold (more help given to me by Klaus already) to replace the tube.

Car runs great. Thanks

Steve

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 09 Nov 2007, 15:20

Glad you got it sorted. I always listen to Klaus...he knows his stuff. Actually, he and Lee know much more than I do.

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 09 Nov 2007, 16:00

MadeInJapan wrote:Glad you got it sorted. I always listen to Klaus...he knows his stuff. Actually, he and Lee know much more than I do.

I just learned how to do front struts today. Piece of cake! And the Koni Sports ride very nicely in the soft setting. No real drivintg until I get an alignment the the V70.

Thanks for the words of encouragement MIJ. I do try...

Klaus