2007 S60 No Heat After Battery Replacement
2007 S60 No Heat After Battery Replacement
I have a 2007 Volvo S60 that stopped putting out heat after replacing the battery. All worked well before. I disconnected the old battery, negative cable first, then the positive. I reconnected the positive cable first, then the negative. The climate control fan works, it feels like it is blowing cold air (It is hard to tell if it is A/C or just cold outside air). Both hoses to the heater core are hot. I vacuumed out the square grill where the thermistor is hidden. Is there a procedure to recalibrate the ECC?
- oragex
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Try first to turn each heat knob from max cold to max warm and back and listen to the door flaps moving inside the CCM. Each knob has a separate such flap. it should make a 'whirl' noise for about 2-3 seconds.
When working on the battery without the ignition key in POS II, there is a chance to blow the small thermistor - it's not visible at the eye. If this happened, you can get a used CCM from similar year without reprogramming it, undo the car battery when replacing it.
When working on the battery without the ignition key in POS II, there is a chance to blow the small thermistor - it's not visible at the eye. If this happened, you can get a used CCM from similar year without reprogramming it, undo the car battery when replacing it.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- erikv11
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The key must be off when disconnecting the battery, then in position II before reconnecting the negative terminal.
download/file.php?id=7812 from viewtopic.php?t=36427
download/file.php?id=7812 from viewtopic.php?t=36427
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
Well, I tried your suggestions and still have no heat. I even pointed my car in the direction of Gothenburg, Sweden hoping that would help. I don't have VIDA, so that is not an option. I guess that I will get a new (used) EEC and try that. I do appreciate your input.
- abscate
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Are the ECC control unit LEDs flashing after about 15 seconds from ignition on? That means a fault code is stored which will tell you where to trouble shoot. A decent code scanner or VIDA is needed on these cars or you parts dart, which will cost more.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- Rattnalle
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It's quite easy to rule out the temperature sensor in the ECC unit. If turned to hot it ignores the sensor and just puts out as warm air as possible. If that doesn't work then it's something else. The fact that every other function on the ECC seems to work from what you describe makes me think it isn't that either. I'm guessing a stuck or poorly calibrated flap somewhere.
Perhaps there's someone within a reasonable driving distance with vida who could help out?
Perhaps there's someone within a reasonable driving distance with vida who could help out?
A little more info to work with. I started and ran the car until the engine coolant gauge was at the 12:00 position. The outdoor temperature was 36 degrees F. I turned both temperature knobs to full cold (blue), I could hear flap motors move by hearing the change in wind noise. I placed a digital thermometer in the center vent opening.The temperature coming out was 43 degrees F. I then turned the temperature knobs to full heat (red). Again, I could hear a change in the wind noise. The temperature coming out of the vent was 61 degrees. that was as warm as it got. Again, both hoses going to the heater core feel hot. All uses check out fine. What is ironic is that everything worked great before the battery replacement. Any more ideas? Any recommendations on a good, inexpensive scan/rest tool that will work on Volvo, Audis & other?
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