1998 V70 GLT Stops abruptly after new head

[bmdubya1198]

Zerex G-05 is available at most parts stores and is the same as Volvo coolant, and cheaper. And there is no dealer within 50 miles of here. So that's what I use.

Same, it's cheap insurance over traditional green coolant, and it's cheaper than the blue stuff. It was on sale at NAPA last month for $12.99 for a gallon of full strength.
Another trick is to buy it online from Advance Auto for store pickup, and use a 25% off coupon code. Best way to buy parts locally!

[WhatAmIDoing]

Zerex G-05 is available at most parts stores and is the same as Volvo coolant, and cheaper. And there is no dealer within 50 miles of here. So that's what I use.

Same, it's cheap insurance over traditional green coolant, and it's cheaper than the blue stuff. It was on sale at NAPA last month for $12.99 for a gallon of full strength.
Another trick is to buy it online from Advance Auto for store pickup, and use a 25% off coupon code. Best way to buy parts locally!

When I refreshed my cooling system last year, 1 gallon of Volvo concentrated coolant was $17 on FCP, local parts stores had Zerex G-05 available only in premix for $22. Wasn't a hard choice since I already had other parts coming from FCP. I do suppose pricing and availability depends on area. It pays to check prices.

Also, I have never gotten Advanced Auto to apply discount codes on fluids.

[erikv11]

Volvo concentrated coolant is currently on "special discount" at FCP, only $24.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... vo-9434699

[bmdubya1198]

When I refreshed my cooling system last year, 1 gallon of Volvo concentrated coolant was $17 on FCP, local parts stores had Zerex G-05 available only in premix for $22. Wasn't a hard choice since I already had other parts coming from FCP. I do suppose pricing and availability depends on area. It pays to check prices.

Also, I have never gotten Advanced Auto to apply discount codes on fluids.

They usually don't do it for oil, but I know it's gone through for me on Zerex coolant.

For $17 it's a no brainer, I would prefer the Volvo stuff anyway. I like the blue better than the yellow Zerex too . It all comes down to what makes more sense cost-wise at the time. Chemically, they're pretty much the same.

[rspi]

Could be a fuel pump or fuel pump relay.

Straight water in an engine can do damage overnight. You can't get it all out by draining it. You should put coolant in the car today.

[dobrosailor]

Well I did another round of battle in 20* weather. I was worried about popping the block due to water in pockets. I put fluid in and the motor started like it had been running yesterday. I let it idle and warm up - running great. I was getting some white pudding on the dipstick which means water in the oil but the oil on the back of teh dipstick was clean. So i ran the motor till warm and convinced myself it woudl run from the front lawn broken down to the driveway. It ran fine. When I got it in the driveway I dropped the oil from the motor to see how much water was in it and if I had popped the block with no antifreeze. NO Water in the oil - so I replaced the oil and fired it up again. Ran for 5 min then while idleing I blipped the throttle like I had all morning and bang it stops. No start feels electrical.

* Fuel pressure 35 running 40 stopped both when running good as wlll as now.
* Injectors squirting - pulled the rail and turned it over
* No spark at plug, cleaned dizzy and cap immaculately. They are Bosch and only 18 mos old
* Spark appears at coil but not sure how reliable - just don't know.

Again car idles great for 15 min, drove car to other driveway ran great
Sat at idle, reached down blipped the throttle and dead.

Pending code P1617

Help, this one's kick'n my asp! adn its 20frigg'n degrees

[abscate]

Check specs on fuel pressure. That sounds way too low

Fuel pressure 35 running 40 stopped both when running good as wlll as now.

[dobrosailor]

The only thing is that the car runs so good when its running and the pressure is the same before adn after it stops running. I'm not to sure about the absolute value of that gauge, its a tire pressure gauge put on a hose that fits over the nibble wiht the shraeder valve removed.

[erikv11]

For electrical issues, see page 1 of this thread

- how is the electrical portion of the ignition switch?
- are you sure everything is plugged in properly from the head work (TPS, CPS, crank sensor are common trouble spots)

I would be swapping in junkyard cam and crank sensors, just to rule them in or out. But then, I have spares sitting in the garage.

[abscate]

Check specs on fuel pressure. That sounds way too low

Fuel pressure 35 running 40 stopped both when running good as wlll as now.

Snip from another post

Cylinders were good @ 125-130 psi (No head gasket issue)
35 psi @ the @ the fuel rail Not good need 50-60 psi
So he thought it should either be the pump or the relay. He didn't have one to switch out so I searched the forum and found the jumper technique (paperclip from terminal 15-87) which allowed it to start more consistently, and finally idle at around 500RPM. Ran it for 30 -40 min. or so while I bled the radiator and replaced the water with coolant. Whew no leaks. Stoked!!!

Get thee to AutoZone and borrow the fuel pressure gauge so you can nail this down. Here the jumper technique won't help as that only diagnoses the relay