jack stand spots and brake pad pins

[enotslim]

Returning to brake jobs after a long hiatus. 1998 v70 t5t.

1. Using HF low profile jack with ~19 inch reach applied at the reinforced jacking point midline below the spare tire compartment I could not get enough rise to fit my old pin style jack stands under "the unique specific jack stand spot" below the trailing arm as recommended by rjs in the video link at the end of this message. My jack stand's lowest position is ~12 inches. RJS' recommended spot is only ~10 inches off the ground (at most) with the car at full height using this jack and jacking point. A few jack stands are listed as 9.x inches lowest height but most are higher.

I would appreciate hearing some good solutions to this issue so I don't flail around too much. Some potential jack stand spots are higher elevation but I don't want to use a spot that can't take the weight.

2. By "jacking around" and using wood supports I was able to access the rear brakes. However, no matter how long and how hard I pounded with a punch and hammer the retaining pins for the pads did not move even one mm. I PB Blasted them without any immediate effect (not surprising) but could not wait long so put everything back together and will try again in a few days.

Any suggestions? It's cold: 20's - 30's ˚F. Would heat help? I've replaced padsin the distant past and don't remember the pins being very difficult to remove. Could they be screwed in instead of push fit?

Thanks.

(

[crlande]

Pins are push fit. Order new brake hardware. Old ones are going to be beat to hell when they finally come out.

[erikv11]

Any time I jack up the car, I lift it from the center front or center rear with the hydraulic jack, and place that end on two jackstands. I never screw around with the car tipping this way or that. For jack supports I use the same 4 places Robert's video points out, and almost no others. Always chock the wheels on the other end of the car.

To jack the rear: Look up under the rear bumper, you will see a long aluminum bar that the bumper mounts on. This is a very stout support location, as the solid metal bumper beam mounts across the two rear frame rails, where you mount a tow hitch if installing one. I raise the rear using that bar (not the plastic). But the jack plate can't reach the bar, so I use two a piece of 4 x 4, about 16 inches long. The 4 x 4 fits right up in there along the metal beam (NOT the plastic!). Center the jack plate on the 4x4, continue jacking it up. If this doesn't get the rear high enough for the jackstands, then use two 4 x 4s instead, stacked up flush.

NOTE: If the bumper mounts are completely rusted out and the cross beam is about to fall off, don't use the support beam! Instead replace the mounts first, they are $20 each viewtopic.php?f=1&t=49802

If the bumper is a no go then in a pinch I will use a board (2 x 6) under the tow hook where it is welded to the spare tire well. Make very sure that when the board is lifted it will apply pressure to the sidewall of the spare tire compartment, not to the center of it, or you will probably collapse the spare tire well. I stopped using this location when I thought I was starting to bend the spare tire well on one of my cars.

[WhatAmIDoing]

If I just need to jack one side, I place the jack under where the front sub-frame mounts to the frame, and on the rear where the delta link bolts are through the frame (this is where most shops will place the lift arms). On the front I'll place the jack stands under the sub-frame near where the control arms bolt in. On the rear I'll put the stands under the rear axle beam or where the arrows mark.

I generally don't have a need to put the rear on stands other than for brake work. Always work on level and chock the wheels.

[abscate]

A hockey puck with a hole is perfect for the rear delta link pads or the subframe brackets to get you that extra inch of lift.

Get new brake hardware and a nice lineup punch to get the pins out, no threads on those

[enotslim]

erikv11-

Thanks. Unfortunately, my aluminum bumper bar it self is corroded and (still) awaiting replacement (viewtopic.php?f=1&t=86662&p=482543#p482543). I suspect much of the strength of this position is due to the chassis members themselves. Do you think this aluminum bar is adequate to support the entire rear end through those brackets?

[enotslim]

...
If the bumper is a no go then in a pinch I will use a board (2 x 6) under the tow hook where it is welded to the spare tire well. Make very sure that when the board is lifted it will apply pressure to the sidewall of the spare tire compartment, not to the center of it, or you will probably collapse the spare tire well. I stopped using this location when I thought I was starting to bend the spare tire well on one of my cars.
...

Thanks for this note!!! My Haynes manual says this center position of the spare tire well is reinforced and is the preferred rear jacking point. I did hear the sound metal flexing when I used this spot. I don't think anything deformed or collapsed, just flexed under load and returned when unloaded. I will take your advice, not Haynes, in future and distribute the load to the sidewalls if using this area.

[enotslim]

Used two 2x6 to jack under spare tire well. Success! (One was still to low.) Seven days after PB Blaster the pins tapped out easily after a few good whacks with a heavier duty punch. Back on the road. Thank you all for your help.

[Clemens]

i had pins corroded in the calipers so badly that i ended up replacibg the calipers. i spent alot of time and force, they were just stuck. i couldn't even drill the pins out.

[abscate]

I think I used off brands on the last rear brake job and they lasted two years. They were cheap and don’t fail until you remove them. Don’t tell JUne I used cheap parts, she will yell at me.