Over filled oil after ran with low oil...

[tryingbe]

Read the dip stick. It says 1.5 qt between the lines.

[ATarnowski]

I cant really see the oil in the coolant tank via the pictures. You can get a loaner head gasket tester from the auto parts store. The area you circled, is that the connection for the PCV to intake hose? The attached video showed you how to use the test kit. Either it is blown or not this test is how the dealer checks for sure. June

[youtube][/youtube]

I contacted Robert Spinner “Robert DIY YouTube Channel” via social media and he said the image that you linked of that PCV connection is the PCV Flame Trap... My guess is that the leak is coming out of this. The connection seems to be loose or been breached, possibly due to over filling the oil and having it completely blow past this connection. I’m not 100% sure that this is where it is leaking from...

In order to clean the engine bay in this area, like many have suggested, should I use a low power pressure washer, or should I use degreaser and or WD-40 and scrub? Never cleaned the bay too thoroughly before so I don’t know exactly what you you guys would recommend for this car... What I’ll first do is use the leaf blower to blow out all the loose junk sitting all about the engine bay... From there on I am clueless about properly cleaning off any other gunk and dirt caked on all over the place.


I really appreciate all of these comments, ideas, thoughts and support! So I really appreciate it.

[ATarnowski]

Yeah, if it's at the point that there is oil in the coolant, it's pretty much guaranteed that the head gasket blew. The engine likely would have been perfectly fine if it was run a little low, but overfilling the oil seems to have done some serious damage.
My cousin's S70 T5 ran almost completely out of oil in the middle of nowhere on a trip from Florida last year after a front cam seal blew out, to the point that the lifters were clacking louder than I've ever heard and the light was on, and it's lived on for another year and a half and probably 25k miles since then. It still runs healthy.

If the car's in good shape, either get ready to do the head gasket, as well as the cam seals, crank seal, and possibly the rear main, or list it on here and or Craigslist for $500.

There are zero signs of coolant in the oil though. The oil is (not) milky which I have been told “Milky” oil is usually a sign of coolant in the oil. But I’m pretty sure that there is oil in the coolant, the color of the coolant is still darker, but hasn’t changed over these past days at all.

[erikv11]

If there is oil in the coolant, it will float along the top of the coolant in the reservoir. The color of the coolant isn't telling me anything here.

There are three compartments the head gasket keeps separate: combustion, oil and coolant. You can have a leak between any two or all three, in one way or in both directions. What this means is none of the generalizations about milky oil or oily coolant or burning oil or combustion test are required features of a breached head gasket. You can have problems in one or all three areas, you have to check out each possibility. Problems may show up all the time or only when the engine is hot or cold.

To reiterate, so far there is no evidence the head gasket is blown. It might be, so you should check it out and then you will know, but no reason at all to just assume it is. Compression test the engine, test for combustion gases in the coolant, watch for oil/coolant mixing, consider pressure testing the radiator, sniff the exhaust for coolant odor, watch the exhaust for extra/new blue or white smoke. Watch the oil and coolant levels do they stay the same or now drop due to consumption.

For cleaning a low power pressure washer and some degreaser is fine, just be very careful to not get water in the alternator (put a plastic bag over it) or in the spark plug tubes. Maybe a hose is a better option. Degreaser yes, WD-40 no. A little scrub brush action will help. Get the engine slightly warm (not hot) beforehand.

[June]

Do not use water or engine degreaser. If you choose to use engine degreaser and water remember the engine degreaser is flammable and spraying on a hot exhaust will likely result in a fire that water will not easily put out. I have seen many casualties to cans of engine degreaser in the hands of fools who didn't completely read the directions.

Get several cans of break cleaner and wash all oil residue with break clean as dries clean with no oily residue left behind. Obviously do this when the engine is cold. Then use baby powder where the oil was wet. Dont be afraid to coat the area good with powder. The powder makes it obvious where the oil is originating from. Then repair the leak. June

[j-dawg]

Theory: maybe, via the PCV, you blew your intake full of the excess oil down to the appropriate level and have just been burning off residual oil since then. The reduced volume of smoke is an indication that you've nearly finished burning it off.

If no seals are leaking and there's no oil / coolant mixing, keep an eye on it, but maybe you're fine.

[bmdubya1198]

Brake cleaner is a very good degreaser (I use it on everything, my cousin even cleans his hands with it), but many brands will hurt plastics. Read the label and be careful where you use it. What I would do is use a water-based degreaser like Purple Power or Simple Green to coat the dirty areas, scrub it, then spray the brake cleaner and wipe it down with a rag. You can hose it down after the scrubbing step, but be mindful of the ignition components and exposed electrical connectors. I've cleaned several engine bays without issue using the hose, but I always make sure I cover the distributor, wires, spark plugs, alternator, and any exposed connectors.

It's definitely possible the head gasket is okay, but you need to do some diagnostics. First thing's first, find that oil leak.

[SuperHerman]

Too much oil causes two main problems in engines. One oil cavitation (super tiny oil bubbles in the oil) which can actually destroy the motor. Basically the oil is frothed by the crank and possibly the connecting rods depending on how much extra oil is added. Had a client a few years back where a tech forgot to drain the oil and added an extra 5 quarts killing a customer's car.

Second is excessive oil pressure. Too much oil pressure causes damage usually to the seals, but depending on engine design the oil can find its way anywhere within the engine. Usually the weakest seal is the fail point, but if enough oil pressure cannot be released the oil will find another place and another ... The head gasket is a pretty robust piece, but looking at the oil and coolant is easy and fast - so eliminate it.

All of the advice hear is solid. Start by cleaning up the engine and setting the oil to the proper level. (If you have not done this, just drain the oil via the drain plug into a clean container - either all of it or just some and then top off with the drained oil or drain more as needed.)

I fear your PCV system and maybe intake manifold is full of oil - so you may want to replace PCV parts it if it is on the list, or if newer clean it all out (diesel works pretty well and is cheap - and you can send the remnants to the recycling facility).

From there find your leaks and fix them. You may want to just change out any seal that is accessible to a leaking seal.

I would not try to drive the oil off, as it can cake up and cause you a world of hurt later on or take out your cat which is pretty expensive.

[abscate]

Please don't use brake cleaner to wash hands

Acetone and toluene are not good for skin or eyes.

See MSDS

[bmdubya1198]

Please don't use brake cleaner to wash hands

Acetone and toluene are not good for skin or eyes.

See MSDS

Yeah, I always tell him he's nuts. I only use hand cleaners like Fast Orange or Lava soap. I prefer to just use some decent nitrile gloves and avoid the mess as much as possible!