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2001 V70XC - Chasing fluid at the bottom of the turbo Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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xHeart
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Re: 2001 V70XC - Chasing fluid at the bottom of the turbo

Post by xHeart »

abscate wrote: 28 Dec 2018, 05:08 Little bit of turbo sludge but not bad. We're you running synthetic?
Turbo sludge -- I assume it was buried under the oil layers. Now that the oil layers have washed away it can be loosened and help escape the pan.

Since turning DIY, ran my cars on Penzzoil 10W30 conventional with 4-month oil and filter change interval. Past three years, 5W30 Full Synthetic with yearly oil and filter change (7-8k miles) -- cold start during extreme winter morning has improved. Since switching, I find a tea spoon full of fine grain dirt mixed with oil at the bottom of filter housing.

Image

For next steps:
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Post by ndphotonl »

abscate wrote: 28 Dec 2018, 05:08I had to do a sludged VW 1.8T that was losing oil pressure at idle that was comparable. Might have pictures to compare somewhere.
Let me guess, blocked oil pickup pipe?

I've driven a Seat Leon 1M 1.8T 20VT for quite some time ;)
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Post by abscate »

I'm not quite sure. The symptom was oil pressure warning at idle after a hot run , in temperatures above 28C.

I took it to VW who said I had low idle oil pressure. I dropped the pan and replaced oil pump and oil pickup for about $100 in OEM parts , maybe 3 hours Labour. Sludge was not bad but this was a low mileage (2003, 1 .8T, 60,000 mile) car

I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic and problem solved. I seem to remember getting the oil warning the week after the job and feeling grumpy about that but never again since.

I drove the car for a couple of years with the oil warning at Idle by the way, just to make the alarmists lose sleep tonight over theories of why you have to pump up oil pressure on startup or ruin your engine, or " 90% of engine wear occurs on startup" or similar washing solution for hogs ( Gelul for you? :D
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Post by xHeart »

Second wash was with 1 part simple green & 2 part water. The rectangle pipe connection to oil trap is between "V & U" shape. It was semi clogged -- takes brushing to clear.
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Cleared the immediate drops. Removed the oil pick up line, now on diaper to protect and prevent.
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Post by xHeart »

Pick up tube after soaking for an hour in 1:2 mixture, dry and ready with new o'ring.
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Post by abscate »

Squeaky clean!

I’m not sure I understand your V and U reference. That’s not true. I’m sure I don’t understand it.
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Post by xHeart »

abscate wrote: 30 Dec 2018, 05:23 Squeaky clean!

I’m not sure I understand your V and U reference. That’s not true. I’m sure I don’t understand it.
The two tubes, pick up and oil cooler, are curved. Same is not true for the crankcase passage -- straight down with relatively sharp turns. The crankcase passage dropping into the pan appears V like -- the picture x-2792 shows the other end below the shelf.

While scrubbing the block section I ran the pipe cleaning brushes into the crankcase and turbo return passages too. It extracted sufficient amount of dried stuff. The brushes came out loaded. These passages are now more open than previous.

The pan screws are same M7 x 1.0 as those used in rear exhaust seal, intake manifold, and a number of places. One can say, M7 x 1.0 is a frequently used size.

The oil cooler needs attention too. Would spraying some brake cleaner in to the passage enough?

hurray! Going towards the finish line.
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Post by XC70Rider »

Nice and clean Xheart!

Any extra hints on dropping the sump? Did you have to remove both the trans and front engine mount?

After I get the injectors repaired I'll be dropping the sump along with replacing the timing belt, water pump, oil pump gasket & seal, and a few other projects.

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Post by xHeart »

Only remove transmission torque mount to the subframe.

Laying on your back with feet out to the front. Pan loosened, final 4 corner screws removed. Grab the pan, first tilt/lower the front and clear the subframe (the two mounting point for engine protective cover). Then lower and clear the flywheel side (it is like a 4" supporting wall), glide it out to the front like a tray-- great design. Real smooth if you know bench press.

Managing oil: drain oil and let it drip for few hours. Put the drain plug back on, and then unplug the next day to collect what would otherwise have spilled on you if you didn't. ZERO drip.
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Post by ndphotonl »

Thanks for the information, will be doing it myself beginning next year.
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