$10,000 S80 Challenge Topic is solved

[pgill]

Update on my 2010 S80 Maintenance

I replaced the Auxiliary Belt, and two pulleys

Note: the pulley for the tensioner is the same pulley used for the idler, I didn't replace the tensioner because it was working fine.

Here is the thread I created for this maintenance on my LR2

Its almost the same on the S80

Note: I did use Land Rover parts for the S80

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32103.html

Pictures of the fun on the S80

I also replaced the motor mounts so i need to add those to the cost

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32979.html

Cost update

$7400 --- Purchase price
$62.53 --- (31401556) --- Booster O-rings
$16.36 --- (AISIN T-IV) --- ATF
$40.35 --- (DENSO 5344) --- Sparkplugs
$00.00 --- Filter housing
$51.47 --- (Mobil 1 0W-40, Oil and Filter)
$58.28 --- (LR006071) --- Thermostat
$00.66 --- (LR001505) O-ring for 30713530
$24.29 --- (30713530) --- Coolant hose
$23.99 --- (31439821) --- Coolant
$22.71 --- (14520, 14526) --- Michelin wipers
$68.85 --- (31272677) --- Oil Filter housing
$18.92 --- (LR006076) --- Idler pulley
$18.92 --- (LR006076) --- Tensioner Pulley
$08.97 --- (PK060473 CONTITECH) --- Aux Belt
$112.70 --- (LR021634) --- Motor Mount
$23.24 --- (30680474) --- Torq Mount

Total $7952.24

Remaining budget $2047.76

[xHeart]

I replaced the Auxiliary Belt, and two pulleys
Note: the pulley for the tensioner is the same pulley used for the idler, I didn't replace the tensioner because it was working fine.

Good Stuff Paul!

What's expected of rebuild tensioner now that ONLY its pulley is restored?

Happy New Year!

[pgill]

xHeart,

Thanks for the comment

I will post here if the tensioner fails.

For my LR2 I replaced the entire tensioner and I still have the old one (it worked fine)

If I have to I will swap out the tensioners.

My suspicion is that the overdrive pulley will fail first.

If I am lucky both the tensioner and the pulley will last the 10 years.

AUX overdrive pulley
31316803 Volvo part number
LR005993 Land Rover part number

We will see

Take care

Paul

[pgill]

All,

I purchased my S80 3.2 back in November

And I have completed all of the maintenance and repairs that should have been done with the exception of replacing the brake fluid which I will do when the weather is dry

High Mileage Maintenance items for 3.2
1. Serpentine belt, tensioner pulley, idler pulley
3. Coolant
5. ATF fluid 4 quarts
6. Power steering fluid
7. Spark Plugs
10. O-Rings for Vacuum pump


Typical repairs for high mileage 3.2
A) Thermostat
D) Engine mounts
I) Anti-Drain back valve in oil canister housing failure

Less common repairs
None so far

For the complete list use this link http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32504.html

Because my S80 is FWD I don't need to do the AWD items.

The car is running great and so far no surprises, just the typical items for a FWD 3.2 with over 100K.

Total spent on parts so far $533.32


Projected costs to get to 225K miles

$514.70 - Oil Changes 51.47 * 10 = 514.70 (interval 10K or 1 year)
$600 - Tires - one set at 170K
$500 - Brakes pads/disc
$72 - ATF 12 quarts
$500 - Misc

Projected future maintenance total $2186

Vehicle cost for 10 years (100K) $7952 + $2186 = $10,138

That puts me $138 over my $10,000 target

I will keep track of the cost and post it here

Thanks

Paul

Edit: $7952 / 1465 miles = $5.42/mile as of 1/3/19 ($.10/mile is still a long way off)

[abscate]

10 cents per mile for a luxury ride is incredible - Good Luck Paul!!

[pgill]

All,

When I bought my S80 for my son to drive I made the decision because the Volvo makes a safe and reliable car.

The reliable part is the point of this thread.

As for the safety part my casual research indicated that the S80 is a very safe car.

Which is not surprising because almost anything safety related that has been added to the automobile for the last 100 years has been developed by Volvo or Mercedes.

With that in mind I came across an article from IIHS that I thought might be interesting for anyone that reads this thread.

IIHS's research was significantly more through than my own.

https://www.iihs.org/iihs/ratings/vehicles-for-teens

In the article IIHS is recommending two groups of cars as a good first car for a new driver.

The safer (and more expensive) group must meet higher safety requirements.

IIHS put a maximum cost for the more expensive group at $20,000 (Maybe I need to change my Challenge to the $20,000 S80 Challenge)

For the safer group with the $20,000 limit here are the Cars/SUVs by model year

Vehicles with substantially higher than average claim frequency under medical payment or personal injury protection coverage are excluded from this list.

2005 XC90
2006 XC90
2007 XC90 S80
2008 XC90 S80
2009 XC90 S80
2010 XC90 S80
2011 XC90 S80 S60 Ford Flex
2012 XC90 S80 S60 Ford Flex
2013 XC90 S80 S60 XC60 Ford Flex Acura TL VW Passat Ford Fusion Subaru Legacy Honda Accord Subaru Outback Lincoln MKZ Ford Taurus etc. etc. etc

It looks like after 2013 the other automotive manufactures decided that they should make safe cars as well.

Just my $.02

Take care

Paul

[pgill]

All,

Time for the next maintenance item.

Cabin Air filter

This Video explains how to do it (not my Video but I did use it for reference)

Note: I didn't remove the Glove Box and I didn't clean the condenser.



Some pictures

Volvo Cabin Air Filter (S60 XC60 V70 XC70 S80) - Mahle 31390880 $20.95

The new filter looks a little longer then the old filter but it fit fine.

I may have compressed the old filter when I removed it in the confined space under the glove-box (Maybe next time I will remove the glove-box)

I will add up the total cost in a future post

Take care

Paul

[pgill]

MVS Readers,

I recently replaced the front brake pads on my S80

Here is a picture of the slide pins for the caliper (one cleaned and one before cleaning) and the grease I like to use

And here is a picture of the old pads next to the new pads

And here are the pads that I used

It has been a few weeks since I changed the pads and I can say that I like the EBC Ultimax 2 pads a lot.

The Friction is excellent from first application and the modulation is beyond my expectations.

These Pads are extremely quite.

This is an excellent street Pad for average driving.

If you are looking for a very aggressive Brake Pad then I recommend that you consider the EBC Red pads instead.

I really like the EBC Pads because they have a break-in coating on the surface that will remove the old friction material that was transferred to the rotor from the previous pads.


I also change the engine oil and filter so I am adding that to the cost


Cost update

$7400 --- Purchase price
$62.53 --- (31401556) --- Booster O-rings
$16.36 --- (AISIN T-IV) --- ATF
$40.35 --- (DENSO 5344) --- Sparkplugs
$00.00 --- Filter housing
$51.47 --- (Mobil 1 0W-40, Oil and Filter)
$58.28 --- (LR006071) --- Thermostat
$00.66 --- (LR001505) O-ring for 30713530
$24.29 --- (30713530) --- Coolant hose
$23.99 --- (31439821) --- Coolant
$22.71 --- (14520, 14526) --- Michelin wipers
$68.85 --- (31272677) --- Oil Filter housing
$18.92 --- (LR006076) --- Idler pulley
$18.92 --- (LR006076) --- Tensioner Pulley
$08.97 --- (PK060473 CONTITECH) --- Aux Belt
$112.70 --- (LR021634) --- Motor Mount
$23.24 --- (30680474) --- Torq Mount
$20.95 --- (31390880) --- Cabin Air Filter
$15.76 --- (UD1306) --- Front Brake Pads (Amazon close out price, typical price is ~$75)
$51.47 --- (Mobil 1 0W-40, Oil and Filter)

Total $8040.42

Remaining budget $1959.58

Take care

Paul

[matthew1]

Paul, can you post a photo or two of the exterior? Just a regular car photo(s).

[pgill]

Here is a picture of my 2010 S80

And here is a picture of my 2008 LR2 (S80's first cousin)