Yes, that's what I was hoping to do. I have the original M56 axle circlip that I wanted to swap onto this axle, but like I said, I'm just going to leave it there for now. As of today, there is no evidence of a leak.oragex wrote: ↑28 Oct 2018, 11:32 I just now realize that the picture with the snapped axle was on xHeart's car. Btw, what did you do with it xHearth ?
As for the original topic poster, just forget it there is the right and only thing to do, as long as the CV joint 'cup' is in one piece, I wouldn't even bother. Some had a bit of trouble reconnecting the two CV joint parts (may take a bit of force) but other than that a new metal clamp on the boot and you're happy camper
This is yet just another story to remember to always keep and reuse the original securing circlip when swapping out an axle. The exact same thing happened more than once on the P2 S60 & CO.
I think that's what happened on my axle. I really shouldn't have tried to tap it in with the dead blow, but what's done is done. If I ever have an issue with it, I'll pull it and replace it with one that actually fits. I'll be holding on to the OE axle circlip!JimBee wrote: ↑28 Oct 2018, 12:12 Another cautionary tale that doesn't necessarily speak to the quality of the cv joint—it's the loose fitting circlip that doesn't know it's supposed to contract fully into its groove as it moves into the tapered receiving piece. Instead, it hits the face of the receiving piece that's flat, not getting into (or fully into) the taper.
Some shops will just pound it in, when they feel solid steel resistance. That apparently doesn't constrict the circlip, but distorts it and jams the mangled clip in the axle spline.
When buying a reman axle, if the clip seems loose in its groove pass it by. It should be just standing proud a few millimeters.
Or if you get one and try to install it and you can hear that you're hitting solid steel, that's the reason why. Don't force it.
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