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'96 850 Turbo - Headlight Wiring & Insulation

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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tshea4126
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Joined: 5 January 2006
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'96 850 Turbo - Headlight Wiring & Insulation

Post by tshea4126 »

Greetings All - Just changed out my lo-beam headlight bulbs (the postings on this were quite helpful)on my '96 850 Turbo. My problem is that the insulation on the wires is just crumbling off! Anyone else with this problem? Total Florida car, so maybe the heat (ambient) and the heat (turbo) might have combined to frazzle the wiring insulation. Parked outside (mostly) and 148,000 miles.

It looks like the best fix would be to buy a new wiring harness piece - the one that goes from the back of the headlamp assembly internally to the socket that holds the bulb. Thoughts? Questions?

Many Thanks in advance.

TShea, Orlando, FL '96 850 Turbo: K&N, IPD Koni struts & shocks, strut tower brace.

oceanman
Posts: 63
Joined: 18 July 2007
Year and Model: 1994 855t
Location: Dacula, GA

Post by oceanman »

i'm an electrician and do alot of work in older houses (70+ years old), and many times the insulation on the wires, especially in light boxes (light= heat), is brittle and just crumbles off the wires. it isn't practical to re-wire the circuit or the whole house, so the best fix is to wrap the wire with some good black electrical tape (i prefer 3m). don't worry- it's safe. the tape is listed for that. it would be alot cheaper than a new wiring harness. just take your time and make sure you dont miss any spots.
'94 850 turbo wagon 285k mi. (ipd chipped ecu; aluminum skid plate; bitchin' stereo; new heater core/t-stat/hoses; sport exhaust; strut brace; turbo vac/boost gauge; k&n air filter; pcv, vacuum hoses replaced)

'93 ford ranger 2.3l 309k mi.

tshea4126
Posts: 8
Joined: 5 January 2006
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Post by tshea4126 »

Oceanman - Thanks for the info. That's exactly what I did as a temporary fix to ward off any shorts. It's a pretty sloppy job as it is tight as hell and you are partially inside the headlight housing from the back side. I think the only way to do it right is to dissassemble the housing so you can get to the wires. What do you think about splitting some shrink wrap, slipping it over the wires and then applying heat? Seems like this might work a little better than tape.

Thanks Again,

TShea
Orlando, FL

oceanman
Posts: 63
Joined: 18 July 2007
Year and Model: 1994 855t
Location: Dacula, GA

Post by oceanman »

i've never actually checked out how the headlight wires are ran, so i don't know how tight it really is (judging by the rest of the engine compartment, it's probably pretty tight!). it might be easier, instead of slicing the heat-shrink down the middle, to cut the wires, one at a time, and slide the wrap over it. then twist the wire back together well and slide the wrap back over the splice. if the wires aren't long enough to do that you could extend them with a short piece. i'm not sure what gauge you would need (probably 16 or 18 ). most parts stores sell wire. they're expensive. radio shack might have it cheaper.
good luck
'94 850 turbo wagon 285k mi. (ipd chipped ecu; aluminum skid plate; bitchin' stereo; new heater core/t-stat/hoses; sport exhaust; strut brace; turbo vac/boost gauge; k&n air filter; pcv, vacuum hoses replaced)

'93 ford ranger 2.3l 309k mi.

Ozark Lee
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Post by Ozark Lee »

I've had similar problems on other vehicles and the wiring repair is futile. The real problem on my cars has been the connector itself. The connector to the bulb will overheat and carbonize which creates resistance. The resitance creates more heat. The additional heat creates more carbonization.

If this sounds circular, it is.

Replace the connector to your lamp, I think they make a pigtail for that purpose but I am out of my office and VADIS challenged at the moment thus I have no part number for you.

Splice the pigtail in and your problem will be solved.


...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

tshea4126
Posts: 8
Joined: 5 January 2006
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Location:

Post by tshea4126 »

Thank you everyone for weighing in on this small, but important issue. no problem with the connectors (yet), just the wiring. I think I'll take the lenses off and see if that gives me better access to the wiring. Then I'll be able to shrink wrap them or replace the wiring altogther. I might go to the bone yard to find a set of used headlamp assemblies and use them for parts. Just discovered E-Code Headlamps for 850s. Nice! Lotta $ tho'. Again, thanks for the help and tips. I'll report back on my final fix.

TShea
Orlando, FL
Black '96 850 Screamin' Turbo (my daughter's), 146,000, K&N air filter, Koni shocks/struts, strut tower brace.

myspv
Posts: 37
Joined: 3 August 2006
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Post by myspv »

Hello all. Happy holidays.
Yesterday I noticed that one of the headlamps was out on my mom's '97 850 sedan. She told me that she had the headlamps replaced just that same week. (Don't ask, I didn't do it...)
So, I pulled the headlamp out, and the lamp lit up. It was then that I realized that the bulb was fine, but the insulation on the wiring was crumbling to pieces. This was obviously creating a short, which wouldn't pass current to the bulb.
The affected wiring seems to be limited to the short wiring harness inside of the headlamp assembly (two wires, one brown, one yellow?). Can this be replaced on its own? Is there a part number for it?
Running wiring inside of the headlamp assembly sure seems like a bad idea to me!
I'm sure others have encountered this same problem. What have you done?
Thanks.

t5rrr
Posts: 128
Joined: 26 November 2009
Year and Model: 1994 855
Location: Dublin, OH

Post by t5rrr »

Same troubles here, when I got my 94 855 recently the passenger headlight was out. I went about thinking that I was going to just change the bulb but the connector was burnt to a crisp!

So as a temp fix I chopped off the stock 9006 connector crimped 2 spade connectors to connect to the bulb.
Got spare 9006 connector from junkyard cars (not volvos) to be spliced in soon.
Wagon Brigade >> 94 855 NA | 97 Subaru Impreza OBS | 07 Suzuki SX4
Previous Bricks >> 90 240 GLE 2.0 | 98 S70 T5A 2.0 | 03 XC90 T6 2.9

OldGuy1967
Posts: 1
Joined: 10 July 2017
Year and Model: 1996 855
Location: East Coast

Post by OldGuy1967 »

I realize this is an old thread but I'm going to add this for future searches on this topic. The headlight harness can be replaced and the part is still available albeit not exactly cheap. It's easy to wrap the wires in electrical tape if you remove the headlamp from the car then pull the glass and reflector out. There are tabs on the top and sides of the connector that attach it to the headlamp assembly. Release the top and bottom first then the sides. The harness pulls through from the back and it makes it much easier to wrap it up once it's out and on the bench. Going back in there's an alignment tab to indicate which side is which.

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wizechatmgr
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Post by wizechatmgr »

Try using fiberglass tubing as an insulator... Should outlast the car.
Wisdom requires knowledge as a prerequisite, but knowledge can be developed due to a lack of wisdom.
In order to learn how to fix something, you must first learn how to break it.
1999 V70 XC AWD 2.4 T -- ~231k miles
1998 V70 2.4 NA -- ~184k miles

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