Clicking driver's side door module

[dlundblad]

Very interesting issue here guys,

Last Christmas, the driver's side window wanted to randomly roll down so as a temporary fix, I pulled the fuse. It seemed as if it was clicking during this time, but I can't remember for sure. Even after pulling the fuse, the module continued to make clicking sounds while driving, which has now evolved into it clicking even with the car off, but apparently it always stops so no big deal.

Yesterday, I noticed the car was clicking even though it hadn't been driven all day and come to find out, the battery was dead. (Can't help but wonder if the faulty module is causing parasitic draw.) I recharged the battery and had it tested; all was well, but it was nearing it's last 25% of it's life according to the parts store guys. To make sure the module stopped clicking and potentially drain the battery again, I unplugged the green and grey plugs from the module.. and now the door chime won't turn off because the car thinks the door is open. (Nice.. *heavy sarcasm*)

The next kicker is that the latch cable that clicks to the door latch behind the panel is glued together. (Also nice..) Apparently it's common for the lock tabs to break. Anyways, not sure how the modules come out, but I imagine the panel needs to be removed and will most likely need replaced at this point so I have a used one on order from eBay.

Certainly not the end of the world, but frustrating nonetheless.

[jonesg]

Very interesting issue here guys,

Last Christmas, the driver's side window wanted to randomly roll down so as a temporary fix, I pulled the fuse. It seemed as if it was clicking during this time, but I can't remember for sure. Even after pulling the fuse, the module continued to make clicking sounds while driving, which has now evolved into it clicking even with the car off, but apparently it always stops so no big deal.

Yesterday, I noticed the car was clicking even though it hadn't been driven all day and come to find out, the battery was dead. (Can't help but wonder if the faulty module is causing parasitic draw.) I recharged the battery and had it tested; all was well, but it was nearing it's last 25% of it's life according to the parts store guys. To make sure the module stopped clicking and potentially drain the battery again, I unplugged the green and grey plugs from the module.. and now the door chime won't turn off because the car thinks the door is open. (Nice.. *heavy sarcasm*)

The next kicker is that the latch cable that clicks to the door latch behind the panel is glued together. (Also nice..) Apparently it's common for the lock tabs to break. Anyways, not sure how the modules come out, but I imagine the panel needs to be removed and will most likely need replaced at this point so I have a used one on order from eBay.

Certainly not the end of the world, but frustrating nonetheless.

Unplugging the small grey plug will result in chime, door open red light and driver floor light.
I would look for loose pins in the plastic plugs , it's possible they get pushed out when plugged into the module.
Module comes out through the panel from inside to outside.
Press some side clips and it pops out.

[dlundblad]

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated and I'll take a look.

I tried finding a new latch cable online just in case, but no dice. I'm only finding them for P2 XC90's..

[dlundblad]

Very interesting issue here guys,

Last Christmas, the driver's side window wanted to randomly roll down so as a temporary fix, I pulled the fuse. It seemed as if it was clicking during this time, but I can't remember for sure. Even after pulling the fuse, the module continued to make clicking sounds while driving, which has now evolved into it clicking even with the car off, but apparently it always stops so no big deal.

Yesterday, I noticed the car was clicking even though it hadn't been driven all day and come to find out, the battery was dead. (Can't help but wonder if the faulty module is causing parasitic draw.) I recharged the battery and had it tested; all was well, but it was nearing it's last 25% of it's life according to the parts store guys. To make sure the module stopped clicking and potentially drain the battery again, I unplugged the green and grey plugs from the module.. and now the door chime won't turn off because the car thinks the door is open. (Nice.. *heavy sarcasm*)

The next kicker is that the latch cable that clicks to the door latch behind the panel is glued together. (Also nice..) Apparently it's common for the lock tabs to break. Anyways, not sure how the modules come out, but I imagine the panel needs to be removed and will most likely need replaced at this point so I have a used one on order from eBay.

Certainly not the end of the world, but frustrating nonetheless.

Unplugging the small grey plug will result in chime, door open red light and driver floor light.
I would look for loose pins in the plastic plugs , it's possible they get pushed out when plugged into the module.
Module comes out through the panel from inside to outside.
Press some side clips and it pops out.

Should have asked originally. When you say the little grey plug is for the chime. Do you mean the plug on the module or the one on the top near the mirror?

[Jonboy74]

I had the same issue. I disassembled the door module, looked over the circuit board, and could not find any obvious visible issue (like swolen capacitors or overheated parts. I took a chance that the relay was going bad, found a replacement for like $2.00, and replaced it. No dice. problem is somewhere else.

I ended up pulling the relay for the door modules (#27 in the compartment just inside the driver-side door. Its a 15 Amp fuse, not to be confused with the others that say RH or LH Door module - those are 25 Amp fuses)....that stopped the clicking....and the window....and the mirror controls....and the door lock controls from the driver side door....and the heated mirror.... Driving without the ability to roll down my window has been maddening, to say the least...I now have to manually lock and unlock the driver side door, but the fob still works for all the other doors. And window and door lock controls work from the other doors.

I've been driving like that for about a year. Now that I've gotten through the DIM replacement (see my post from earlier today), I'm planning to see about replacing the door module next. $99 from XeMODeX. May require a software reload, which requires VIDA with a DiCE module, but that beats paying the dealer $300 plus installation, plus software.

https://xemodex.com/us/used-volvo-parts/

JonBoy

[dlundblad]

I had the same issue. I disassembled the door module, looked over the circuit board, and could not find any obvious visible issue (like swolen capacitors or overheated parts. I took a chance that the relay was going bad, found a replacement for like $2.00, and replaced it. No dice. problem is somewhere else.

I ended up pulling the relay for the door modules (#27 in the compartment just inside the driver-side door. Its a 15 Amp fuse, not to be confused with the others that say RH or LH Door module - those are 25 Amp fuses)....that stopped the clicking....and the window....and the mirror controls....and the door lock controls from the driver side door....and the heated mirror.... Driving without the ability to roll down my window has been maddening, to say the least...I now have to manually lock and unlock the driver side door, but the fob still works for all the other doors. And window and door lock controls work from the other doors.

I've been driving like that for about a year. Now that I've gotten through the DIM replacement (see my post from earlier today), I'm planning to see about replacing the door module next. $99 from XeMODeX. May require a software reload, which requires VIDA with a DiCE module, but that beats paying the dealer $300 plus installation, plus software.

https://xemodex.com/us/used-volvo-parts/

JonBoy

Is the door chime silent too?

[abscate]

Once the battery gets weak and the cold weather comes in all kinds of electrical nasties will pop up.

Get a new battery if it is holding 25% charge.

[dlundblad]

Ended up replacing the battery with the largest fitting H8 size (had the medium size before) as well as pulling the #27 fuse. I originally had the 25 amp LH module fuse pulled so I reinstalled that as well.

No clicking or dinging. The dome lights turn off and the window doesn't want to roll down. I'm planning on getting a module regardless and if it can be programmed with VIDA then I'll invest in that, but if not, I'll make a trip to the dealer. Either way, thanks again guys.

[mrjay62]

Hi dlundblad

Did you ever get the window module problem resolved?

[dlundblad]

I haven’t replaced anything yet. Just pulled the fuse.