Hello,
Could someone please help try and diagnose my 2007 (P2) S60 (2.5T).
When I brake hard, I can feel a very noticeable shudder right before coming to a full stop. It does not do it at higher speeds, only as I stop.
The other problem is that occasionally I press the gas, the revs increase, then suddenly jolt forward (almost as if dropping in gear while giving gas) This seems to happen more often after the shudder, but is not always the case.
I believe I have broken engine mounts/ I've had problems in the past with variable exhaust solenoid/ and admittedly, its been a while since having it serviced (possibly low fluids).
Is this a mechanical problem with the transmission or would a good servicing and fixing the known problems cure my issues?
Car Shudder
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Jlselby231
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- Year and Model: 2007 S60
- Location: Alabama
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vtl
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Most likely it's a warped brake rotors.
What ATF brand is currently in transmission and how long ago it was replaced? You may need to replace ATF (Idemitsu Type-TLS is the closest match) and add some Lubegard HFM, 2-3 oz for beginning.
What ATF brand is currently in transmission and how long ago it was replaced? You may need to replace ATF (Idemitsu Type-TLS is the closest match) and add some Lubegard HFM, 2-3 oz for beginning.
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oragex
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Also feel its a transmission thing. Miles? 5 speed transmission? As above, google about fluid change (dont letgarages 'flush' it)
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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Jlselby231
- Posts: 4
- Joined: 4 February 2016
- Year and Model: 2007 S60
- Location: Alabama
It's a 5-speed automatic with ~150k
I just check the trans fluid and it's near black. Could a fluids change potentially fox the problem?
I just check the trans fluid and it's near black. Could a fluids change potentially fox the problem?
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vtl
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Fresh fluid will not fix worn friction plates or eliminate leaks through the gaps in valve body, but it's fairly cheap if you do it yourself. If you have a place where you can drain about 3-3.5 quarts of ATF and add a fresh fluid then do it yourself.
Black color is bad, it means the friction plates have too much wear. Just fresh ATF may not fully cure it, but it will be certainly shifting better, with less harm done to the internals.
Black color is bad, it means the friction plates have too much wear. Just fresh ATF may not fully cure it, but it will be certainly shifting better, with less harm done to the internals.
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EngineeringBloke
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If you drive at a few miles an hour, and press on the brakes lightly and heavily, I think you could feel pulsing through the pedal, and hear noise from the disk brake rotors (windows open) if they are warped.
The AF fluid may just be aged. However, it is also possible that there is some wear in the transmission.
There are some reports that a transmission may fail after ATF is changed, and it is suggested that worn metal from the AT acts as necessary friction when the normal AT friction parts are worn smooth. In that case, removing that material with an ATF change results in the AT slipping and needing an overhaul or replacement. Such a transmission has to be considered to be on the brink of failure. However, I am not aware of any reports of a mechanic pursuing this and investigating the actual condition within such a failed transmission.
Changing all the fluid at once will change its hydraulic properties. The AT computer has become accustom to the older properties and may put stress on the AT with the new fluid. So a few people here suggest changing just some of the ATF, then repeating the process in a few weeks or months gradually increasing the proportion of new ATF.
The term flush is sometimes just used to mean removal of a fluid (by draining or by the use of the AT's own pump). The term is also used to refer to an external powered device that supplies new fluid under pressure in a cleaning action. Volvo transmissions can be damaged by such external pump pressures and this is not recommended at all.
You can drain out about 3.5 quarts from the AT sump drain bolt. That is about half. Measure the amount removed (you can mark a gallon water bottle into quarts with water, empty the bottle then fill from your draining), and top up with new ATF fluid via the AT dipstick hole. Be sure to recheck the ATF level, with the car driven for 30 minutes to ensure it is warm.
Alternatively, you can also change the ATF via the AT coolant line - known as the Gibbons method. You disconnect the AT line at the AT radiator, run a hose from the AT radiator to a marked bottle. Run the engine to use the AT pump to push out 2 quarts of ATF. Stop the engine. Add 2 quarts of new ATF into the ATF dipstick hole to restore the normal level. You can repeat this once more, and have easily changed 4 quarts of ATF without even going under the car. IPD has a kit for this and PDF of instructions. I have used this on my 99K miles '06 S60.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4808/10 ... h-hose-kit
Be sure to use the appropriate ATF fluid. Type is JWS3309 or Toyota type 4 or Volvo AFT for your model or Aisin 3309 or Idemitsu Type-TLS or Mobil 3309.
You could take a sample of your ATF and send it to Blackstone for testing:
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/engine- ... nsmission/
That would give you an idea of the condition of the ATF and the transmission.
Good luck. Let us know what you decide and find, and if you have any other questions.
The AF fluid may just be aged. However, it is also possible that there is some wear in the transmission.
There are some reports that a transmission may fail after ATF is changed, and it is suggested that worn metal from the AT acts as necessary friction when the normal AT friction parts are worn smooth. In that case, removing that material with an ATF change results in the AT slipping and needing an overhaul or replacement. Such a transmission has to be considered to be on the brink of failure. However, I am not aware of any reports of a mechanic pursuing this and investigating the actual condition within such a failed transmission.
Changing all the fluid at once will change its hydraulic properties. The AT computer has become accustom to the older properties and may put stress on the AT with the new fluid. So a few people here suggest changing just some of the ATF, then repeating the process in a few weeks or months gradually increasing the proportion of new ATF.
The term flush is sometimes just used to mean removal of a fluid (by draining or by the use of the AT's own pump). The term is also used to refer to an external powered device that supplies new fluid under pressure in a cleaning action. Volvo transmissions can be damaged by such external pump pressures and this is not recommended at all.
You can drain out about 3.5 quarts from the AT sump drain bolt. That is about half. Measure the amount removed (you can mark a gallon water bottle into quarts with water, empty the bottle then fill from your draining), and top up with new ATF fluid via the AT dipstick hole. Be sure to recheck the ATF level, with the car driven for 30 minutes to ensure it is warm.
Alternatively, you can also change the ATF via the AT coolant line - known as the Gibbons method. You disconnect the AT line at the AT radiator, run a hose from the AT radiator to a marked bottle. Run the engine to use the AT pump to push out 2 quarts of ATF. Stop the engine. Add 2 quarts of new ATF into the ATF dipstick hole to restore the normal level. You can repeat this once more, and have easily changed 4 quarts of ATF without even going under the car. IPD has a kit for this and PDF of instructions. I have used this on my 99K miles '06 S60.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4808/10 ... h-hose-kit
Be sure to use the appropriate ATF fluid. Type is JWS3309 or Toyota type 4 or Volvo AFT for your model or Aisin 3309 or Idemitsu Type-TLS or Mobil 3309.
You could take a sample of your ATF and send it to Blackstone for testing:
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/engine- ... nsmission/
That would give you an idea of the condition of the ATF and the transmission.
Good luck. Let us know what you decide and find, and if you have any other questions.
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