replaced 2 window sliding blocks but window will only go up 3/4 way!

Post by **plumsmooth** » 15 Jan 2019, 16:55

Was hoping to put an end to my Window woes today.
If it wasn't for inspection I would have left my Drivers window frozen in place -- without the 2 sliding blocks that crapped out -- for the rest of Winter!

Based on my fiddling with it (window) to get it closed without blocks while driving I must certainly have bent the darn window regulator!

It even looked a little bowed inward (toward me sitting looking at it) toward drivers seat.
I didn't have the other for comparison yet.

I'm happy to buy another regulator. Well you know not happy but I if I have to do it.
I would rather be shared with some rebending wisdom from the Matthew's Forum frequenters expertise.

I put this off for a while I know why. Seems relatively easy; but now that I have replaced the 2 driver's window sliding blocks cursing due to lost reinforcement clip into the door bay unretrievable with magnet, my window will not even close!

Please help me. I belive power windows must work to get an inspection.

Tomorrow to start I am thinking nice silicone spray to the window tracks and try and muscle it through once to the top?
Tomororw supposed to be maybe slightly above freezing for a short bit.
Thinking I should have warmed the interior of the car up before I started today's project since I have no heated garage and my fingers were getting a little numb trying to release the door electronics to get the panel and foam off to work...

I knew i should have bough more than 2 sliding blocks the moment my retaining clip slipped into door bay.

Turns out I should have bought a pack of them probably. I hadn't even realized that the front one was shot too! I think the back went first then the front.

I wish that I could understand how the thing bent assuming that is what it is. Then I would have a better chance of reshaping without just making it worse.

I might just buy a regulator and bite the window reality one step further.

Volvo Wagon continues to express its disappointment at me taking it from its Florida home!

P.S. I drained my Battery working on the power window! I may need a new one tomorrow to start! What do you do when working on electronic stuff keep the car running?

Thankyou very much for any time and info you can share with me!

EngineeringBloke · Post by **EngineeringBloke** » 15 Jan 2019, 18:06

For the easy question, turn the car off when not using power, or attach a battery top up charger to house AC.

Good luck with your window and the temperature. It looks like if you can just get the window closed, it is not necessary to have it be operational:
https://dmv.vermont.gov/enforcement-and ... t-advisory

The main checks are emissions, safety and stuff on the windows and license plates.

Post by **plumsmooth** » 15 Jan 2019, 18:12

Wow are you sure of that I thought I looked at my state's DMV inspection list and saw windows.

That would mean I got grumpy for nothing...

EngineeringBloke · Post by **EngineeringBloke** » 15 Jan 2019, 19:00

I am sorry, stay grumpy. I did not see window operation on the VT inspection website but the checklist and the inspection manual do have operating windows as a requirement.

https://dmv.vermont.gov/sites/dmv/files ... _Guide.pdf

"Check for correct operation of all windows and doors"

and on page CAR6.1
https://dmv.vermont.gov/sites/dmv/files ... Manual.pdf

"Check for proper function of all manually operated and/or power operated windows to
include rear slider.

Reject vehicle if:
Any manually or power operated window
, to include rear slider
, fails to operate properly."

Sorry for misleading you on this one.

Post by **E Showell** » 15 Jan 2019, 19:42

I have read of successful bending of regulator arms, but how much time do they give you to re-inspect if you fail? Reason I ask is that I have a spare driver door for a P2 wagon with, I believe, a good regulator. I already harvested the window I needed, so regulator is surplus to requirements. $50 plus actual shipping to VT. I wouldn't be able to drill out the rivits and grab the regulator until the weekend, so probably can't mail 'til next Wednesday.

New ones are more than 300 bucks.

Post by **abscate** » 16 Jan 2019, 05:36

EngineeringBloke wrote: ↑15 Jan 2019, 19:00 I am sorry, stay grumpy. I did not see window operation on the VT inspection website but the checklist and the inspection manual do have operating windows as a requirement.

https://dmv.vermont.gov/sites/dmv/files ... _Guide.pdf

"Check for correct operation of all windows and doors"

and on page CAR6.1
https://dmv.vermont.gov/sites/dmv/files ... Manual.pdf

"Check for proper function of all manually operated and/or power operated windows to
include rear slider.

Reject vehicle if:
Any manually or power operated window
, to include rear slider
, fails to operate properly."

Sorry for misleading you on this one.

Boy, that's a grumpy inspection item. The worst though,is the famous ticket on the Mass Pike, after you run out of fuel and pay the piper to get your fuel, you get an " insufficient fuel" citation. Of course, it is better to claim carb icing than out of fuel

Post by **volvolugnut** » 18 Jan 2019, 18:01

I had this problem on 2001 V70 at about 190,000 miles. Dorman makes a stronger replacement linkage that will fix the problem at moderate cost. I had no luck bending the original part to fix it. Replace all plastic sliders to avoid repeating the work soon. It is easier to replace all now and they do not cost much.
Dorman does not sell by internet that I could find. GO to your friendly parts supply shop and have them order for you. Dorman is a good source for many improved automotive replacement parts. They identify the failure mode and redesign to make the part better.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 18 Jan 2019, 18:05

The repair is hard because the window motor seems to have to be in proper position to go fully up and down. When I got it to close completely, but only go down 3/4, I decided I would complete the repair later. Later has been 6 months now. LOL

Post by **volvolugnut** » 18 Jan 2019, 18:12

Another idea for future use: For retrieving non magnetic parts, buy a cheap spring operated parts retriever with 3 or 4 small fingers on the end. Very good for those dropped tools that roll to the center under the car. Also sticky tape ball on a stick can pick up many things in places the hand will not reach.

EngineeringBloke · Post by **EngineeringBloke** » 18 Jan 2019, 19:07

Volvolugnut, that sounds like window module calibration.

Try this but use the fuse for the door module for driver or passenger (fuses are at end of dash with driver door open):
1. Engage the auto-down function and remove fuse 11C/5 (for driver's side) or 11C/4 (for passenger side) (located in the driver's side dash fusebox) during window movement.
2. Install fuse back into position.
3. Engage the auto-up function and hold it engaged for 5 seconds after the window has reached the fully closed position.
4. Verify window is now working properly.

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... alibration

Or a similar approach on video: