Hey everyone,
Up until recently, I have been extremely happy with my '96 850. Though the odometer is broken, estimates of miles I have seen point mileage to be north of 300k. Sadly, the tranny is starting to seem like it's about to drop (It's with AAMCO now so they can check).
Anyway, I am looking for a new-to-me volvo, and in my area I am seeing a lot of S60s and V70s (mostly AWD/XC). I just wanted to pose the question of where things start to go wrong on these cars, as well as what I would have to do. I'm sure the basics like spark plugs, filters, brakes, fluids, and tires are likely to be mentioned. If you all have any words of wisdom to drop on me, please do so. I should also mention, I am mainly looking at automatics, not manual since I haven't yet learned how to drive stick (Sad I know).
I will keep this thread updated on the status of the 850 (fingers crossed!), and whether I go with an S60/V70 or not.
Also, please tell me of your experiences with these vehicles, both good and bad.
Take care everyone.
When do things start to go? Topic is solved
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Messerschmitt101
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- RickHaleParker
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Thing start to go wrong when maintenance and repairs are deferred.Messerschmitt101 wrote: ↑01 Feb 2019, 09:46 I just wanted to pose the question of where things start to go wrong on these cars, as well as what I would have to do.
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
- matthew1
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About 40 for me.

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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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- mrbrian200
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40..
Somewhere around there I had to switch to premium fuel and step up the maintenance routine. So long as I stick to it I don't notice any difference from when I was 25...so long as I don't look in the mirror.
Somewhere around there I had to switch to premium fuel and step up the maintenance routine. So long as I stick to it I don't notice any difference from when I was 25...so long as I don't look in the mirror.
- matthew1
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Messerschmitt101, I take it you're talking about 2000s Volvos, not recent? If so, you need to be able to turn your own wrenches or you'll be writing big checks.
Tell us about how your approach/tolerance to/skill level at car maintenance.
Short answer: any 2000s Volvo will be past the point where they start to go.
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Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

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Messerschmitt101
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Well, like I said, I have the 850 and have done control arms, engine mount bearing (the rubber one on top), radiator and radiator hoses, and was planning to do brakes, and shocks/struts before taking it in.matthew1 wrote: ↑01 Feb 2019, 11:18![]()
Messerschmitt101, I take it you're talking about 2000s Volvos, not recent? If so, you need to be able to turn your own wrenches or you'll be writing big checks.
Tell us about how your approach/tolerance to/skill level at car maintenance.
Short answer: any 2000s Volvo will be past the point where they start to go.
Skill level wise, I would say basic, but learning, and not afraid to do my own work. The only thing I paid a mechaninc to do was the timing belt/water pump (I bought the part, they did the labor) since I didn't want to put in the effort of taking the whole engine apart and re-timing it.
And yes, most of the P2s I am looking at are between 2000-2005 (2nd gen).
Also, thaks for the laugh earlier (seem slike I've got a little while till things go wrong
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cn90
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The car is similar to a human being. Every part/organ has a life expectancy.
Search forum for lifespan of:
- Alternator
- Tstat
- PCV system
- Suspension system
- Timing Belt
etc. etc.
Best is buy a car with 80K, drive it to 150K and sell it. Best bang for the bucks...
Search forum for lifespan of:
- Alternator
- Tstat
- PCV system
- Suspension system
- Timing Belt
etc. etc.
Best is buy a car with 80K, drive it to 150K and sell it. Best bang for the bucks...
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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chrism
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You'll probably want to go with a 2003 or newer in order to avoid the quirky transmissions and to get a Bosch throttle body vs the Magnetti Marelli. A verifiable maintenance record is quite valuable. Don't buy anything with a check engine light on or if it "just needs a tune up" - if it was a simple fix the seller would have already fixed it. No cars from Houston or any other hurricane zone (flood damage).
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Messerschmitt101
- Posts: 40
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- Year and Model: 1996 850
- Location: Denver
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Okay, so turns out I jumped the gun on this whole thing.
My 850 is perfectly fine, just needs CV axles to be replaced (so that it stops leaking transmission fluid). I will be in the 850 forum asking about this job, but I am sure I can do it myself (and save round-about $450-$500).
Thank you all for helping me out on this, even though it didn't go anywhere. It'll be a good baseline for when I actually do start looking for a newer car.
My 850 is perfectly fine, just needs CV axles to be replaced (so that it stops leaking transmission fluid). I will be in the 850 forum asking about this job, but I am sure I can do it myself (and save round-about $450-$500).
Thank you all for helping me out on this, even though it didn't go anywhere. It'll be a good baseline for when I actually do start looking for a newer car.
- Rattnalle
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You keep it til things start to go. Generally it'll get cheaper and cheaper per year and mile until something big goes, then you start over. For a whole lot of these cars that won't be until you get (far) north of 200k. With proper but not excessive routine maintenance.cn90 wrote: ↑01 Feb 2019, 13:59 The car is similar to a human being. Every part/organ has a life expectancy.
Search forum for lifespan of:
- Alternator
- Tstat
- PCV system
- Suspension system
- Timing Belt
etc. etc.
Best is buy a car with 80K, drive it to 150K and sell it. Best bang for the bucks...
Just avoid the AWD. Chances are it isn't working anyway. Get a -04 or later. The NA has the new throttle and the turbo is the newer nicer engine tune.
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