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2001 V70 2.4T Long crank after sitting, fuel odor, underside of fuel tank damp Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
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2004 - 2007 V70 R

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prwood
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2001 V70 2.4T Long crank after sitting, fuel odor, underside of fuel tank damp

Post by prwood »

A few weeks ago our 2001 V70 2.4T started taking a long time to crank when I first started it up for the day. At first I was thinking the battery was at fault, since the temperatures had started to get pretty cold. However, I noticed that the lights in the cabin and instrument cluster didn't get dim, and the crank didn't slow down as would typically happen if the battery was starting to get low.

I also noticed that there was a strong smell of fuel from the right rear of the car, near the fuel filler door, that mainly occurred once the engine had been shut off. After I noticed this, I checked underneath the car and saw that the underside of the fuel tank, on the right side of the car, was damp. From touch and smell it appeared to be damp with fuel.

I watched the underside of the car both while the engine was running and when it was shut off, and I did not witness any fuel leaking or spraying from any point. I have also observed that the fuel gauge doesn't drop between shutting off the engine and starting it up again, regardless of how long it's off (just a few minutes, hours, or overnight).

I have found that when starting the car, if I switch the ignition to Pos II and wait for a minute, the engine starts up very quickly. I attempted this on the theory that the fuel pressure was low and that giving it an extra minute would help the fuel pump get it up to pressure. Once the car is started and running, I do not notice any symptoms that the engine is starved for fuel and/or that the fuel pressure is dropping.

I'm not sure if it's related, but a couple of years ago I had posted about an EVAP leak / P0455 code: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=82236

Since I never did track down that EVAP leak, I am wondering if it has reached a point where, coupled with the colder weather, enough fuel vapor is escaping to condense on the underside of the fuel tank.

Any thoughts on what to check next? Picture of right side fuel tank attached:
IMG_0116 copy.jpg
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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prwood
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Post by prwood »

Bump?
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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Post by abscate »

That’s a fuel tank or system leak, not condensation.
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prwood
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Post by prwood »

Any ideas of how to diagnose?
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

There is an access cover but it requires the seat back be removed to get it off. Almost for certain it is the nipple or tube the fuel line connects to has cracked. That is part of the fuel pump and sender. When that cracks the fuel line drains and it takes abit for the fuel line to fill and purge air before it will get fuel to injectors so it runs.

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dlundblad
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Post by dlundblad »

The tops of these fuel pumps are known to crack. Like Jimmy said, there is an access port under the rear seat. Lots of good YouTube videos on how to remove the seat as well as replace the fuel pump. Remove the seat and see if the top of the pump is seeping.
Hers: Charcoal 2002 S60 2.4t 187k

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prwood
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Post by prwood »

Thanks all. I have found some of the videos. It looks like some people just JB-Weld whatever parts of the pump are accessible from above without removing the pump. I'll take the seat off and check out the condition of the pump to see if that seems applicable in my case.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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prwood
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Post by prwood »

Can anyone point me to a good video or article on removing the back rests in a P2 wagon? What I’m finding is mostly for P80 models or for P2 sedans.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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SuperHerman
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Post by SuperHerman »

Keep looking, there is a few videos on the V/XC70.

If it is the common top cover cracking, what you are looking for is wetness on the plastic top covers. They crack with age. Some people JB Weld the crack and have had success. Clean the area well and rough it up slightly, then clean again. Use the longer setting version of the epoxy and let it pool over the entire area maybe 1/8" thick. Take care not to get it on any of the connectors - just spread it out and it will self level (park on a flat space).

Otherwise the better and safer approach is to just replace the unit.

One last thing to look for is a bad seal - which is not common unless the unit has been disturbed.

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dlundblad
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Post by dlundblad »

prwood wrote: 07 Feb 2019, 18:54 Can anyone point me to a good video or article on removing the back rests in a P2 wagon? What I’m finding is mostly for P80 models or for P2 sedans.
Sorry I assumed they were the same.

Here's one.
Hers: Charcoal 2002 S60 2.4t 187k

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