Hi all,
The alu part where the cam belt tensioner screws is has broken off. Is this an engine out job? I have no idea if that support is part of the engine block.A foreign part fell into the cam belt,put the whole under tension,something had to give.
Thks for response,
Dirk
,
Cam Belt tensioner alu support broken off
- SuperHerman
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Can you post a picture?
Difficult.it is the alu support structure where the cam belt tensioner is bolted on. I am afraid that it is part of the block,i.e. that there is nofront alu cover on the block,which means engine out to weld it.As far as I can see on a parts catalog,there is no separate front cover. Car is now 20 years but still perfect. But that is just too much.
Dirk
Dirk
- SuperHerman
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I sorta pictured in my mind it was on the block, but a picture would have clarified. Not sure what you have for Aluminum welders in Antwerp, but it is not an easy process. I pulled up some pictures to confirm and I think I understand the broken piece. It is part of the block, tapped in and supported by some cross pieces in that area (part of the mold).
I had an issue with an old Audi A8 and the proper solution was to remove the engine, strip it down and put it in an oven before and after welding. I found a guy to do it without that step and the welds and other areas cracked from the heat and cooling. He used a special glue to do the repair in the end. When I got home all was well, the next day my garage was flooded with coolant. In the end I had to source a new block.
Sourcing a new engine may be your best bet, but Antwerp may have some master welders. If the engine is trashed, trying a weld wouldn't hurt if it can be done cheap enough.
What is the condition of the valves? Are they bent? If so I would just get a replacement used block and/or engine. Selling the car as is may also be the best approach - I don't know Antwerp Volvo market.
I had an issue with an old Audi A8 and the proper solution was to remove the engine, strip it down and put it in an oven before and after welding. I found a guy to do it without that step and the welds and other areas cracked from the heat and cooling. He used a special glue to do the repair in the end. When I got home all was well, the next day my garage was flooded with coolant. In the end I had to source a new block.
Sourcing a new engine may be your best bet, but Antwerp may have some master welders. If the engine is trashed, trying a weld wouldn't hurt if it can be done cheap enough.
What is the condition of the valves? Are they bent? If so I would just get a replacement used block and/or engine. Selling the car as is may also be the best approach - I don't know Antwerp Volvo market.
- RickHaleParker
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If you can see it, you should be able to get a picture.
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
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- SuperHerman
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True - unless you do the work yourself. A used engine replacement can get very expensive. But then, with an engine out, one can change all the seals and hoses and have a solid runner for less than a new car.
Fixing the engine you have, based on my Audi experience, is too risky.
The middle approach - plan on replacing with a used engine - pull the engine and try to fix it while it is out. Plenty of room there to do some welding. If it works stick it in, if not replace it. Only added step is doing the welding, hoping the welding doesn't destroy the cylinder. Thinking about it - risks too high. Then again, maybe fill the cylinder with oil while welding, and drain afterwards assuming the piston rings are far enough away. Risky.
One other option, pull some images off the web and show it to an engine shop, machine shop or welder and get some opinions. Nothing to lose - maybe they can do it in the car, but all the timing components and water pump will need to be removed.
Fixing the engine you have, based on my Audi experience, is too risky.
The middle approach - plan on replacing with a used engine - pull the engine and try to fix it while it is out. Plenty of room there to do some welding. If it works stick it in, if not replace it. Only added step is doing the welding, hoping the welding doesn't destroy the cylinder. Thinking about it - risks too high. Then again, maybe fill the cylinder with oil while welding, and drain afterwards assuming the piston rings are far enough away. Risky.
One other option, pull some images off the web and show it to an engine shop, machine shop or welder and get some opinions. Nothing to lose - maybe they can do it in the car, but all the timing components and water pump will need to be removed.
nearly impossible to do a good weld in the car. Plus do not want to run the risk that something breaks again just the only time ever I'll decide to go through a desert somewhere.I am looking for a secondhand engine but understand that all electronic parts will have to be reprogrammed by Volvo. Also looking for another -same- old S-80 as I like the car!
Thanks for responding!
Dirk
Thanks for responding!
Dirk
- SuperHerman
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Dirk - if you do a like for like engine swap and carry over all your original modules no programming will be needed. If you don't match the engine like for like, sometimes you can move over your original parts to the donor engine. You just want the heads and block to be a match in this situation. The computer will know no difference - only when a sensor, connector or similar changes will funny stuff happen. Think of the broken engine block as a part - the donor engine is the same part - no computer work needed. For the entire engine think of it as many parts - all the same, but being replaced at the same time. The computer will not know whether one or 100 parts were changed if they are like for like.
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