stripped bolt help 1996 850 turbo

mapaed850 · Post by **mapaed850** » 23 Nov 2007, 21:01

After stripping my thermostat I have read several articles here telling me how not to strip the bolt. I wish I had read these first but the job looked so easy that I didn't research before starting. So I stripped the bolt after breaking it loose. Got it about one turn and it stopped. I tried to dremmel a screw driver slot but couldn't get a good enough angle for it to work. I tried and extractor but couldn't get a good angle and broke it. I tried drilling out the head but the drill died on me. Then I tried those external extractors that fit over rounded bolts and it didn't work either. I'm kind of out of ideas. I have 3/4 drilled out bolt head that's taunting me in my sleep. I could go back to drilling out the bolt head but I'm not sure if that would help too much. I would have to vice grip the threads and if that didn't work I would be back to squre one. I saw this posted on the forum about a year ago............
"I had the same problem with a short torx not fitting in on my 97 850. Very easy solution though at zip cost. Start car, remove fuel pump fuse under hood and let the car run out of fuel. Then, using the correct flare nut wrench, remove the fuel line that is actually in the way of the torx nut and then you have the access you need. Job done and no futzing around. "

How do these flare nuts work? And is a the flare nut wrench he is referring too the same as a normal wrench? Any other ideas? Any idea what a shop we charge to bail me out of this mess?

Thanks, and I'm not doing so much as change wiper blades without looking here first from now on.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 23 Nov 2007, 23:14

Did you try an easy-out? I believe that Sears sells them.
It looks like this http://www.tools-plus.com/hanson-52408.html
When you "drill" it in, it actually turns your screw out, as you're screwing it in counter clockwise. At least that's the way it's been explained to me.

tripleb · Post by **tripleb** » 23 Nov 2007, 23:16

The head on these bolts are fairly big, I would try to get a vise grip on it.

B

Post by **pfeener** » 24 Nov 2007, 06:49

If you have it 3/4 of the way drilled off, I think you're committed to drilling it out. I would soak it overnight with some PB Blaster, drill off the head and get a good pair of visegrips (with good teeth) to clamp on and turn it out.

Post by **pfeener** » 24 Nov 2007, 07:08

Keep in mind, the lower thermostat housing is just bolted to the block. You can easily remove the lower thermostat housing and mount it in a vise for easy access and worse case scenario, you can purchase a new lower housing. FCP sells them. Here's the link to the page.

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850cooling.htm

Post by **tailor** » 24 Nov 2007, 10:21

After re-reading your post it seems that you have done all that I propose below. Perhaps trying the small bit to drill out the broken extracter first is you best chance and then proceed to the other extractors.

Below I hope will help others who have a tough/broken/stripped bolt situation.

After snapping the head off the bolt off the Egr (not the throttle body) and yelling like a crazed wolf, I did the following to solve my issues.

1)Get a really sharp drill bit, I used Mastercraft Titanium coated bits,kit 54-3661-01 , 29 pieces, but any good bit will do.

You need to drill a pilot hole in the centre of the bolt, I would use a small bit and then make the hole larger in small increments. Keep it well lubricated (with Q20 or similar, Scotch will not work, that is for afterwards) and try not to rush the job, slow and steady, go as deep as you can with the pilot bit, but not all the way to end of the bolt.
Keep in mind that you want to drill in the center, you can damage the thread on the body if you do not.
From your description of the size I would think that you want to use a 17/64 as a final bit size, you will have to use you best judgement here.

2)Now using a Screw extracter set(also from Mastercraft,
58-2552-8 ) either a no 4 or 5 ,depending on final the hole size.
You want to drill the bolt out COUNTER CLOCKWISE, again very slowly.

It should come out without further problems.
You might want to replace all the bolts from the thermostat when you have them out, you are going to need one anyway.

See picture of product.
http://img46.imageshack.us/my.php?image ... 115pc8.jpg"

Tailor

Post by **tailor** » 24 Nov 2007, 10:28

Having trouble uploading.

Picture of extracting set.

waynej · Post by **waynej** » 25 Nov 2007, 22:31

tailor, You make it sound easy "Perhaps trying the small bit to drill out the broken extracter first is you best chance and then proceed to the other extractors". If you try it you will quickly learn that a good quality extractor is at least as hard as the drill. The only way you can drill it is with a carbide tip drill. They are very expensive and may be hard to find in that small diameter. Also you can't drill the hard extractor in the soft bolt by hand. The drill just goes off into the soft bolt. If you can grind the broken extractor flat, then you may be able to drill it in a drill press.
I like the previous idea of PB Blaster soaking over night then a good pair of US made vise grips.

mapaed850 · Post by **mapaed850** » 26 Nov 2007, 21:18

Thanks for all the help guys. I tried re extracting and broke another extractor. I was finally able to drill off the bolt head and remove the cover. I put vice grips on the bolt and was able to back it out. But I only got about two turns out of it in two hours. I've decided to take it to the local volvo shop that has a good reputation. I'm afraid I might end up like the guy on Car Talk who shot his lug nut and wound up in the hospital. The real kicker is that I dropped in extractor down a hole near the thermostat. I don't care about the tool but I worry abut it finding its way t the timing belt. I'm going to star a new thread but is this possible?

Post by **pfeener** » 27 Nov 2007, 07:03

Just unbolt the thermostat housing and bolt on a new one. You can buy a new one from FCP for $66 or probably under $10 at the boneyard.

If you bring it to the dealership, they'll do exactly the same thing only charge you $100 for labor and list price for the part.