camshaft locking tool broke...... Topic is solved

[abscate]

IS the tensioner temperature gauge about in the middle of the range?

It sounds like something is wrong there.

You drove 60 miles on a timing belt that slides on the cams with finger pressure? I thought I was a risk taker



Time for a lottery ticket!

[Goldchemist]

I definitely did not follow the tensioner installation perfectly. I watched the FCP Euro video but had some difficulty getting my timing belt around the exhaust sprocket so I played with the tensioner to get the timing belt on. My plan is to take the timing belt off, then remove the tensioner, set up the tensioner like in the video, then follow it to a T.

My CVVT has the same exact play as in the beginning of that video. I checked that play while I had it off the engine. But, it does not wiggle at all while it is attached to the engine. But, when I turn the engine over, it moves out slightly towards the passenger wheel well. I know, sounds strange but I just checked it. Doesn't wiggle at all. Only when I'm cranking the engine over I feel some resistance and then I see the hub push out a little, then go back.

There are so many details with this job. I'm just second guessing everything. When I was putting the CPS triggers back on the rear of the camshafts and I tightened the bolt, the cam moved a little. Then I moved it back so I'm second guessing that now. But, like you said if I can turn her over 4x, 6x, 10x, and my marks all line back up then it must be okay. I'm really leaning towards the loose timing belt at this point. Its definitely loose.

[RickHaleParker]

I definitely did not follow the tensioner installation perfectly. I watched the FCP Euro video but had some difficulty getting my timing belt around the exhaust sprocket so I played with the tensioner to get the timing belt on.

Nothing wrong with pushing on the tensioner to get the slack need.

My plan is to take the timing belt off, then remove the tensioner, set up the tensioner like in the video, then follow it to a T.

I hope your not looking at the same FCP Euro video I looked at because, in the one I looked at they showed tightening the mounting bolt but not torquing the mounting bolt to spec. The mounting bolt is what keeps it in adjustment.

Did you set the tensioner indicator according to ambient temperature?

My CVVT has the same exact play as in the beginning of that video. I checked that play while I had it off the engine. But, it does not wiggle at all while it is attached to the engine. But, when I turn the engine over, it moves out slightly towards the passenger wheel well. I know, sounds strange but I just checked it. Doesn't wiggle at all. Only when I'm cranking the engine over I feel some resistance and then I see the hub push out a little, then go back.

I'm unable to draw an conclusion on this.

[XC70Rider]

Sounds as if you turned the allen key tensioner in the opposite direction to tighten it. The FCP video is for an earlier engine that needs the tensioner turned CCW to get tension. For 3188689+ later engines (2005+) you turn the tensioner allen key CW to get tension.

At temps 60f+ use this method after installing the timing belt

1. Turn with 6mm allen key CCW to releive tension
2. Turn with 6mm allen key CW past the middle to 2 O'clock to give tension
3. Turn with 6mm allen key CCW until tensioner indicator is back in the middle
4. Tighten Tensioner center bolt 20nm

[Goldchemist]

I will try to answer all questions here. My tensioner temperature gauge is NOT in the middle of the range. I definitely need to do the tensioner over again. Yes, and I usually take ZERO risk. Thats the thing with this job though, this is a tough one for me. Plus the temperatures have been fluctuating here like crazy. One day its 28 degrees F, next day 55 F. Sometimes I'm in my garage at 10am with the kerosene heater on. Other times its 11pm and I'm freezing my sprockets off.

When I did the tensioner the first time I mean I really forced the belt on there. Wasn't just pushing on the tensioner. Yes, that FCP Euro video. He leaves the center bolt loose to allow for adjustment, I guess?. I will start from the beginning and set the tension right. As for the hub moving in and out, I don't blame you, I'd have to take a video. Maybe its only moving because my tension isn't tight.

Well, thanks again. I appreciate all the assistance.

[XC70Rider]

....He leaves the center bolt loose to allow for adjustment, I guess?.

Yes. Just finger tighten the center bolt when first mounting the tensioner. Install the belt onto the gears the same way FCP did in the video. It worked for me. Using strong pull I got the belt over the exhaust Cam without touching the tensioner. I'm a crossfit lifter. Now rotate the crank 720deg and check the crank and cam markings. From here on follow the steps I posted earlier.

Heat up your garage from 60F to 80F two hours before the final tightening.

[RickHaleParker]

Thats the thing with this job though, this is a tough one for me. Plus the temperatures have been fluctuating here like crazy. One day its 28 degrees F, next day 55 F. Sometimes I'm in my garage at 10am with the kerosene heater on. Other times its 11pm and I'm freezing my sprockets off.

Breathe in breathe out, you can climb the learning curve.
The Tensioner is a thermal dynamics device. Get the temperatures stabilized as XC70Rider suggested.

[abscate]

The whole swing on the tensioner from 0 to 80F I see only about 30 degreees of arc. The setting isn’t critical as long as it’s in that range. I’m guessing it’s way out as you’re belt tension is so low.

You do have to approach it from the tension side though, that is, over tension it, then back the tension off to the setting, then tighten the hold bolt. An extra set of hands to hold it while you fuss with it makes it go from an hour job of man swearing to 5 minutes of wrenching.

Over found it’s easiest to get the belt onto the water pump last. You are pushing down and the larger arc is easier to work onto the pulley

[Goldchemist]

yes. my tension is way out. i found it very difficult to get the belt around the water pump the last two or three times. it was easiest to get it around the exhaust pulley. temperatures dropped around here last couple days. not easy to heat up my garage when it’s so cold. gonna give it a try this weekend. thanks!

[erikv11]

Yeah, heating up the garage sounds downright silly, I can tell you there is no way I could do that in the winter. You could point a space heater under the corner of the jacked up car for several hours, I know from experience this will definitely raise the temp in the engine bay (and block) several degrees, but it's not going to be anywhere near 60. Just be careful about fire hazards etc, and melting the bumper cover! Put in what heat you can and heed abscate's advice.