Dual VVT motor into single VVT car?

highmiles · Post by **highmiles** » 27 Feb 2019, 13:10

I have spent a fair amount of time searching engine swap threads trying to get an handle on this particular engine swap question...

I am wrapping up an engine rebuild on a 2003 S60 so am searching for the next project.

I have come across a 2001 S60 T5 manual for sale with a bad motor (waterpump/timing belt/bent valves....) the owner of the car has purchased a 2006 T5 motor but has decided to sell instead of do the swap himself. He also has both control modules from the donor car.

My understanding is that the original motor is a B5234T3 motor (53 VIN) and the donor motor is a B5244T5 (from an automatic.) It seems that the main difference of concern between these motors is the change from exhaust only VVT to dual VVT on the donor motor.

Can I swap in the dual VVT motor and simple leave the intake VVT unplugged? Is it possible to wire up the intake VVT provided the computers are also swapped out? Ultimately I am not too concerned about not having the intake VVT as long as performance does not suffer and the car does not end up with drive-ability or check engine light issues.

What else am I not thinking about?

What are your thoughts?
John

Post by **jimmy57** » 27 Feb 2019, 13:18

The unplugged VVT will be in the wrong position. The 2006 motor is valuable so I think you could sell it and get the right single VVT engine. The ECM will not work in your car because the 2001 is a 250 kbps bus speed and the 2006 is 500kbps speed. It would take some hacking level expertise to swap in even if the bus speed and other processor incompatibility was not an issue.

An engine from a 2.4T or XC70 will work in the single vvt version but will require premium fuel. It will be a hot rod too.

highmiles · Post by **highmiles** » 28 Feb 2019, 07:48

Thanks for the reply!
Great information on the ECM incompatibility.

I have done some more digging. Some say it is OK to just leave the intake VVT umplugged, but as you note, it sounds like some believe that the uncontrolled cam can "move" over time, but this can be prevented by pre-loading the VVT gear on the intake so that it is unable to be moved. Sounds like this will work, though still brings up the question of whether or not this would be the BEST timing point.

The other possibility is to get a junkyard head for the 01 T5 motor.

John

Post by **jimmy57** » 28 Feb 2019, 09:59

The unplugged solenoid will apply oil pressure to one side of the apparatus and keep the cam there as long as oil pressure is applied but long term there is no oil circulation in the VVT hub like there is when it moves and the chambers have in and out flow. I guess trying one tooth advanced and one tooth retarded to see which is the best for performance could overcome the fixed at one travel end problem.
Is the head the only problem? Pistons don't seem to be too badly punched?
You can use low pressure turbo head on that engine if a head is the problem.

Post by **chrism** » 28 Feb 2019, 10:11

This may be an ignorant question but can the VVT hub/sprocket on the new engine be replaced with the solid (non-VVT) sprocket from the old engine?

Regardless of the way it's done, I can see a need for a cam slot holding tool in order to get things in correct relationship.

highmiles · Post by **highmiles** » 28 Feb 2019, 10:21

I got a look at the pistons in the block yesterday (the owner already removed the head,) it was hard to tell as they were pretty covered in deposits, but at least two pistons are dinged pretty good. I would consider just knocking down the high spots and rolling on with them. If I can live with the pistons, then the car requires a good or rebuild head and then also a water pump and timing belt kit plus whatever "while I am in heres" that you come across.
I think I can pick up the car and spare motor for $1,500. Since my time is free... seems like I can still come out alright on the other end. Body and interior are very good all things considered.
@chrism I am still getting educated on the subject, but no they can't be swapped without machine shop work. I do have the cam locking tool.
Thanks again for the input!

Post by **jimmy57** » 28 Feb 2019, 11:24

The vvt cam has only the one bolt hole and non vvt have the three at a different location relative to front of head. The hole in head is much larger as the vvt sticks into head where non vvt cam sticks out of head and seal rides on the cam.

I wouldn't be surprised if you could get $1500 for the engine from an R enthusiast with a cracked cylinder engine. The 06 motor is long stroke/small bore to get to 2.4 litre. R uses the larger bore and that leaves steel cylinder thinner to get 2.5l out of it. SOmeoene wanting to build a wild engine wants that 2.4 as a starting point.