camshaft locking tool broke...... Topic is solved

XC70Rider · Post by **XC70Rider** » 02 Mar 2019, 14:08

Goldchemist wrote: ↑02 Mar 2019, 11:20 Temps climbed up to 38 F so far today!

Hi XC70Rider. I have some questions about the instructions you listed.

1. Turn with 6mm allen key CCW to releive tension. Does it matter which position the Allen key hole starts in?

No it doesn't. Just need to relieve tension by turning the allen key CCW.

2. Turn with 6mm allen key CW past the middle to 2 O'clock to give tension. When you say 2 O'clock, do you mean the tension indicator is a 2 O'clock or the Allen key hole? I'm confused because in the video he is first talking about the Allen key hole, then I think switches to the tension indicator.

It's the indicator that needs to be in the 2 O'clock position. The allen key position doesn't matter. Just need it to turn CW to give tension.

3. Turn with 6mm allen key CCW until tensioner indicator is back in the middle
4. Tighten Tensioner center bolt 20nm

Hi Abscate, I'm going to get the bolt and washer at the hardware store. If that does not work I will pm you. Thanks so much!!!

Goldchemist · Post by **Goldchemist** » 03 Mar 2019, 13:41

Well guys, I think I'm screwed. Got the timing belt on today. Temp outside about 43 F. Temp inside the garage about 65 F. Tensioned up the belt really nice. Thanks for the instructions.

However, I decided to turn the engine over a few times before I put the wheel back on etc. She won't turn over!! Stopped at about a 1/4 turn of the crankshaft. stopped. I don't want to push to hard, but its not the same minor resistance I felt before when I would turn the engine over by hand. Feels like it just won't go any more. Am I all the way back to square zero here? I'm thinking I will need to take off the CPS's and start over. Please tell me I don't need to take the whole top of the engine off to time everything up. I don't expect you guys to walk me back through this whole thing. I will do some reading of other threads. I just don't get it though, I was able to turn it over numerous times, even drove 60 miles. All I was trying to do was increase the tension on my timing belt. My intake and exhaust hubs didn't move. The belt is nice and tight, tensioner set right and bam, can't turn it over. Maybe I was only slight in time before and now the increased tension brought it out of time? I need a week away from this job. Thanks again all.

XC70Rider · Post by **XC70Rider** » 03 Mar 2019, 17:58

Did you hear or feel metal clicking when the crank stopped at 1/4 turn? If not then give it more force.

Goldchemist · Post by **Goldchemist** » 03 Mar 2019, 19:38

i did not hear or feel metal clicking. more force? yikes. thing is it took minimal force for me to turn it over all previous times. okay, i will give it a shot tomorrow night, if i have the guts. thanks.

Post by **abscate** » 03 Mar 2019, 22:31

Spark plugs are out? If not, take them out. You might need to walk the cams back to their timing marks.

Try to get the crank back to the timing mark first

One rare possibility, it is possible To strip the crank pulley and have it spin on the crankshaft, thus negating the timing mark function. I doubt that’s has happened but

You’ve done well. You haven’t bent valves because you have moved slowly. Once the crank is back on the mark, we can remove the timing belt and check that’s both cams turn freely.

Goldchemist · Post by **Goldchemist** » 04 Mar 2019, 10:07

Spark plugs are in, I will take them out.

So I can turn the crank backwards, counter clockwise? I didn't think I could do that. I am reading up to understand how the cams and crank are related but I though they were all intertwined and must all turn clockwise at the same time. Or, if I remove the timing belt, can I just turn the cams and crank which ever way I want, CCW and CW?

Try to get the crank back to the timing mark first. Can I turn it CCW?
Once the crank is back on the mark, we can remove the timing belt and check that’s both cams turn freely. Okay so assuming I can turn it backwards to the mark, then I can remove the timing belt. But, I'm pretty sure my cams will be on the marks because It was all lined up when I started. Maybe when I increased the tension on the belt it pulled the cams out of time a little?

I'm still going to try and give it a little more force just to see if that works. I've been cranking it over by hand throughout this whole job. My marks would always line back up. Only thing I did was increase the tension on the timing belt.

thanks!

Post by **erikv11** » 04 Mar 2019, 19:27

It sounds like you probably got the marks all correct and compression is the only thing holding you back. Remove the plugs and likely it will turn very easily clockwise, and the marks will all stay in sync, and you can move on. If the cams are only off 1 or 2 teeth you will be able to turn everything by hand with not valve-piston contact.

CCW is not a great idea when the belt is on, unless it is just a small amount people do a several teeth CCW all the time. In theory it is OK but the belt tensioner etc is set up for clockwise only, so much CCW could get you into trouble.

With the belt off, best not to turn the crank at all, unless the cams are also out of the top end. If you must turn the crank with the belt off, CW or CCW is irrelevant at this point. Remove the plugs and be prepared for the pistons to hit the valves, when they do you must stop moving the crank and monkey with the cams to get the valves off that cylinder, then go back to the crank, etc ... not recommended but still you are extremely unlikely to bend anything by hand if you proceed sensibly.

Goldchemist · Post by **Goldchemist** » 05 Mar 2019, 20:05

Tonight I took all of my spark plugs out. I tried to turn the crankshaft CW but it will not budge. I tried to loosen the tension on the timing belt a little bit. Still won't budge CW. Could it be that my timing belt is hung up on something not letting it move CW? Since I increased the tension it looks like the timing belt walked towards the engine on the crank. Wondering if it is stuck in there between the crank and the oil pump. Trying to see in there but not easy. I went and took all of the covers off the back of the engine again just because I know I will want to make sure of the position of the cams when I do eventually figure this out.

abscate posted some clearer instructions in another thread about how to line it up with the timing belt off. Now I see what erikv11 means about monkeying with the cams. I'm thinking that means alternating between the intake and exhaust cams as I turn the crankshaft CW, with the timing belt off. Gonna give that I shot when get up the guts again. Thanks!!

Post by **cn90** » 05 Mar 2019, 21:00

Can you check the REAR of the camshafts again to be sure they are indexed correctly w.r.t. to the front VVT?

Goldchemist · Post by **Goldchemist** » 06 Mar 2019, 15:21

Yes. I am going to take off the CPS 'actuators' that are attached to the back of the cams so I can see how they are indexed w.r.t the VVT hubs...tonight or tomorrow night. I tried turning it again using the crankshaft with spark plugs out but it would not turn.

Here are the steps I plan to take to get everything lined up again:

1. take CPS's off back of cams.
2. remove timing belt.
3. turn crankshaft CW until it stops.
4. try to turn each cam shaft CW until they stop.
5. turn crankshaft CW again until it stops or is back on the mark.
6. turn each cam shaft CW until the slots on the back of the cams are parallel.
7. attach camshaft locking tool to back of cams.
8. remove VVT hubs.
9. reinstall VVT hubs using the instructions posted by F250 some years back. There are many details in this step that I don't know if I got right. My VVT hubs did not seem to be spring loaded for example. I just popped them on lined up on the marks. They did not move after that.
10. reinstall timing belt and properly tension.
11. turn engine over 4 to 6 times.

Thanks for all of the advise!

camshaft locking tool broke...... Topic is solved

Re: camshaft locking tool broke......