camshaft locking tool broke...... Topic is solved

[cn90]

Goldchemist,

Since you have aligned it perfectly (timing marks are on) and you have the code P0017,
is it possible that the P0017 comes from a bad cam sensor.

The cam sensor might have been the culprit all along.
Just a guess.

You may want to read this thread:

03 Volvo XC90 2.5T AWD – Crank Position Sensor and Mount Replacement due to P0017

viewtopic.php?t=82634

[abscate]

Absolute worst case.

Remove timing belt

Remove top cam cover, remove cams ( procedure is here in Fora)

Now all the valves are retracted. Set crank to the timing mark, now all the pistons are down, away From TDC.

Clean up the cam surface, replace oil Orings, apply anaerobic sealant. Reinstall.

Now you can put the cams back in

[Goldchemist]

thanks cn90. but i tried to tighten my timing belt first because it was noticeably loose. now i can’t even turn the engine over by hand. so i have to line it back up. my theory is that since my belt was loose, it was out of time slightly. i turned it over by hand about 8 times. drive it. got the code. then tightened the belt really tight. then tried to turn it and it’s locked up now. i will check out that thread though.

abscate, i really hope it does not come to that. i am going to take my time and try to monkey everything back into time this weekend. thanks !!!

[Goldchemist]

Update and question. Went out to the garage this morning to tackle this issue again. After thinking it through over and over again...I thought, if anything I'm only slightly out of time. Like a tooth or two or three. I took the CPS's off the back of the cam shafts and I could see that the slot on the intake cam was straight up and down. but my exhaust cam was not. it was angled a little forward or turned a few degrees in the clockwise direction if you were looking at the engine from the passenger side (the front of the engine). I decided to take out the VVT hub cover and try to turn the exhaust cam counter clockwise only slightly using the T55. I did that just enough to line up the slots on the back of the cams so that they were both straight up and down, perpendicular to the head junction. I put my timing belt back on and tensioned it up right. Then I started to turn the crankshaft clockwise and it turned over!!! not locked up anymore. I turned it over eight times and the marks are line up. Now, the marks are not perfect to when I made them before I took everything apart. but the engine is turning over smoothly by hand. And I'm thinking when I made the marks before the exhaust cam was slightly out of line anyway....I had to use the cam locking tool to turn it slightly to line up to get the cam locking tool on. They may be what cause my later problems.

I'm going to end on a high note today, and put everything back together later in the week and give it a shot at starting her up. Do you agree that it is okay to start if I've turned it over 8 times and there is no resistance or any noises at all? I mean its turning over really smoothly. I'm still thinking my timing might be off slightly but at least I got it back turning over by hand smoothly and the timing belt is tight. I may just bring it to my mechanic at this point and ask him to time it up perfect. At least I fixed my main problem which was my oil leak.

I'm not out of the woods yet, but thanks again for all the advice.

[firstv70volvo]

Update and question. Went out to the garage this morning to tackle this issue again. After thinking it through over and over again...I thought, if anything I'm only slightly out of time. Like a tooth or two or three. I took the CPS's off the back of the cam shafts and I could see that the slot on the intake cam was straight up and down. but my exhaust cam was not. it was angled a little forward or turned a few degrees in the clockwise direction if you were looking at the engine from the passenger side (the front of the engine). I decided to take out the VVT hub cover and try to turn the exhaust cam counter clockwise only slightly using the T55. I did that just enough to line up the slots on the back of the cams so that they were both straight up and down, perpendicular to the head junction. I put my timing belt back on and tensioned it up right. Then I started to turn the crankshaft clockwise and it turned over!!! not locked up anymore. I turned it over eight times and the marks are line up. Now, the marks are not perfect to when I made them before I took everything apart. but the engine is turning over smoothly by hand. And I'm thinking when I made the marks before the exhaust cam was slightly out of line anyway....I had to use the cam locking tool to turn it slightly to line up to get the cam locking tool on. They may be what cause my later problems.

I'm going to end on a high note today, and put everything back together later in the week and give it a shot at starting her up. Do you agree that it is okay to start if I've turned it over 8 times and there is no resistance or any noises at all? I mean its turning over really smoothly. I'm still thinking my timing might be off slightly but at least I got it back turning over by hand smoothly and the timing belt is tight. I may just bring it to my mechanic at this point and ask him to time it up perfect. At least I fixed my main problem which was my oil leak.

I'm not out of the woods yet, but thanks again for all the advice.

You've left out the most important piece of information... when the timing marks on the crank and hubs are aligned what do the slots on the rear of the cams look like? Are they horizontal with the correct offset when the timings marks in front are lined up? It's good that you're able to turn the engine over now so you can check the cam rear slot alignment when the timing marks are aligned in front. I'm assuming with the rear cam slots perpendicular as you mentioned this is not when the crank and hub timings marks are aligned in front. When aligning the timing marks in front only turn the crank CW just until the marks are aligned, this will give a better look at how the CVVT hubs are setup. Before putting things back together you need to check the rear cam slot positions with the alignment marks in front set.

[cn90]

1++++...

[Goldchemist]

You've left out the most important piece of information... when the timing marks on the crank and hubs are aligned what do the slots on the rear of the cams look like? Are they horizontal with the correct offset when the timings marks in front are lined up? It's good that you're able to turn the engine over now so you can check the cam rear slot alignment when the timing marks are aligned in front. I'm assuming with the rear cam slots perpendicular as you mentioned this is not when the crank and hub timings marks are aligned in front. When aligning the timing marks in front only turn the crank CW just until the marks are aligned, this will give a better look at how the CVVT hubs are setup. Before putting things back together you need to check the rear cam slot positions with the alignment marks in front set.

You're right. The slots on the rear of the cams are horizontal with the correct offset now. You assumed correctly. When the slots were perpendicular, all my marks were about 1/4 turn clockwise from their marks on the front of the engine. I had turned my crankshaft 1/4 turn CW from the marks and the engine would not turn any more. Thats when I looked at the rear of the cams and the slots were perpendicular. But one of them was not perfectly perpendicular, the exhaust cam. I turned that one back CCW just a hair to line it up. The way I turned it back was using the cam shaft bolt (T55) on the front of the engine. It did not take much force at all so I doubt the bolt budged. then reinstalled the timing belt. Now its turning over again. My problem now though is the marks I made on my CVVT hubs are about one tooth off. Still better than it was before though.

[firstv70volvo]

You're right. The slots on the rear of the cams are horizontal with the correct offset now. You assumed correctly. When the slots were perpendicular, all my marks were about 1/4 turn clockwise from their marks on the front of the engine. I had turned my crankshaft 1/4 turn CW from the marks and the engine would not turn any more. Thats when I looked at the rear of the cams and the slots were perpendicular. But one of them was not perfectly perpendicular, the exhaust cam. I turned that one back CCW just a hair to line it up. The way I turned it back was using the cam shaft bolt (T55) on the front of the engine. It did not take much force at all so I doubt the bolt budged. then reinstalled the timing belt. Now its turning over again. My problem now though is the marks I made on my CVVT hubs are about one tooth off. Still better than it was before though.

The cam slots being perpendicular with only 1/4 turn of the crank (from marks aligned in front) doesn't make sense to me. The cams should have only turned 1/8th or 45 degrees from the horizontal position not 90 degrees. Are you certain the crank was only turned about 1/4? What concerns me is if the engine wasn't turning over previously due to a piston contacting a valve your timing is off by more than a tooth or two but, if the rear cam slots are horizontal with the correct offset when the marks are aligned up front you should be good. The only other possibility as Abscate mentioned, which is very low probability, is the lower timing belt pulley splines are sheared and the crank timing mark wouldn't be valid. To check this you would have to pull off the crank harmonic balancer pulley or you might be able to use a reference point I have. I recently measured the distance from the no 1 piston top to the edge of the spark plug opening (see photo) with the crank timing mark aligned, it was 160mm or 6 5/16 inches on my engine; 2001 2.3L T5. The damaged pulley though I would expect this to be a rare problem. Just FYI, the no 1 piston is very near TDC when the crank timing mark is aligned so you can easily see the top of the piston when the spark plug is removed.

[Goldchemist]

I must have turned the crank more than a 1/4. I was only estimating. I guess the cams went a 1/4 and the crank went 1/2. I doubt my lower timing belt fully splines are damaged. I had it off to change the oil pump gasket and it looked great. I've since only driven it about 60 miles. The reasons I am thinking the timing isn't that far off is because I marked everything when I started this job and my car was running perfectly. I only wanted to change the cam seals and CVVT hub o-rings. When I put everything back together the first time, the car started up fine and I drove it about 60 miles. The P0017 code popped up and I noticed my timing belt was not very tight. I took it off and then put it back on too tight. Then during hand cranking to check, it stopped turning. Then all I did was turn my exhaust cam back about an 1/8 of an inch with the timing belt off. Reinstalled the timing belt, tensioned up nicely, and now its turning over by hand. We will see when I start driving her again around Wednesday or Thursday. I am just really glad that it is turning over by hand again. Thanks for the pictures.

[Goldchemist]

So guys and gals. I'm almost there. Still have the codes P00340 and P00017 though. I'm limping to the finish line. Trying to decide if I want to dive under the hood again, I've been working on this one since about October 2018. (plenty of excuses if you want to hear them let me know.)

I'm scheduled to bring it to my trusty mechanic on Tuesday but I will kick myself if he tells me he 'changed the camshaft position sensor and everything is fine...that'll be $200.' or something like that. Question - are the intake and exhaust camshaft position sensors the same exact part number? I've been searching online and just not eager to take everything off the back of the engine again to look at both sensors for the 12th time.

Thanks.