Instructions w/pics when Changing Timing belt/waterpump/tens

[Trilarry]

Good Job! Think of all the experience you got and the money you saved.
Tri

[mister]

Hello,
Just changed Timing Belt, Water Pump & two pulleys. T45 bolt on idler arm bushing was too tight & broke tool & another tool rounded shallow star (Volvo - please give me a bolt head I can hold onto!). So couldn't lubricate idler bushing but also could not hold backside of idler pulley bolt to fully tighten nut. Can anyone give me a picture of the backside of the idler pulley bolt & the recess it may fit into as I will attempt to make a tool to keep this from turning (Volvo - why isn't this locked in position so I would not have this problem, the T45 bolt was enough!). Does anyone have first hand experience w/ these problems. Any help is appreciated.

1988 740 290K, 1998 V90 134K

[bekko]

Why can't you just mark the positions of the intake pulley, exhaust pulleys and crank pulley with white-out before the old belt is removed??Then make sure all three are in the same position after the new belt is installed?? Easier and safer than moving things around and looking for marks in the metal. Right??

My '98 V70 has yellow paint marks on the intake and exhaust pulleys similar to the Bay 13 photo. There is also a white paint mark on the crank pulley. However, when the paint marks on the intake and exhaust pulleys are lined up with the frame notches, the paint on the crank pulley does not line up with anything. There is no way to tell which paint was put on at the factory and which was put on when the belt was last changed.

Why not just make your own marks???

Thanks,
-steve

[Arbelac]

Why can't you just mark the positions of the intake pulley, exhaust pulleys and crank pulley with white-out before the old belt is removed??Then make sure all three are in the same position after the new belt is installed?? Easier and safer than moving things around and looking for marks in the metal. Right??

My '98 V70 has yellow paint marks on the intake and exhaust pulleys similar to the Bay 13 photo. There is also a white paint mark on the crank pulley. However, when the paint marks on the intake and exhaust pulleys are lined up with the frame notches, the paint on the crank pulley does not line up with anything. There is no way to tell which paint was put on at the factory and which was put on when the belt was last changed.

Why not just make your own marks???

Thanks,
-steve

Because that's a good way to screw up and toast your engine. The marks are there for good reason. You don't want to screw up a TB change on an interference engine, unless you really like rebuilding the entire head and possibly pistons...

[bekko]

Because that's a good way to screw up

That doesn;t answer my question. But OK, I'll keep looking for the marks in the metal. I would still be more comfortable making my own marks rather than wondering if the mark in the metal is real or imaginary.

-steve

[Arbelac]

If your belt has slipped at all (it's possible to run the engine a tooth or two off, you'll just get crap mileage), then if you manage to replace the belt without moving anything, you'll still be misaligned.

The marks are so that you have a known good reference in case something moves while the belt is off or if it snapped (and by some providence, didn't mash your valves against the pistons). You don't know if your engine is exactly aligned currently. Also, when replacing it, you want to turn the engine over at least twice after replacing the belt, and you want the factory marks to line up correctly AFTER cranking it over, to be sure everything has the right torsion. Again, home-made marks are not reliable for this.

[bekko]

Thanks. I found marks on the intake and exhaust pulleys, but never did find a mark on the crank shaft sprocket. It appears that the post on the crank shaft sprocket is supposed to be at 12-o'clock. I pulled the crank shaft pulley and sprocket off today to get to the leaking shaft seal behind it. I'll inspect the shaft better tomorrow to see if there is a mark there. The shaft has splines where the sprocket fits over it. I notched the end of the shaft with a millbastard before pulling off the sprocket - just in case.

-steve

EDIT - A DAY LATER

I'm such an idiot. I kept looking for a little stamped mark on the crank shaft sprocket. Happened to glance at it again and there is a HUGE mark that is part of the casting mold. It is so large that I couldn;t see it.

'98 V70 XC 150k

[ollygreengiant]

Volvo 94 850 turbo, Hello first time posting, i bought my first Volvo in Nov.07 and have had some fun replacing the heater core, brake pads and rotors just recently, and now it seems that the timing belt, is the next must, along with the serpentine belt. This will be my first time belt replacement, so to my Question:
How important is it, to replace the ,Idler Pulley, Timing Belt Tensioner Roller, and the water pump? if anyone has any guidance for a student, who might screw things up trying to save a buck, their comments would be greatly appreciated, cheers

[MadeInJapan]

Welcome to MVS
150K Kilo's is 93K miles...not so important to do the other stuff, but definitely the belt and tensioner on the TB and the Serp. belt. At 260 Kilometers (163K miles) do everything...T-belt tensioner, dampeners, roller, Serp. belt tensioner and water pump. You're sort of between the typical miles for T-belt replacement. Do it ASAP...waiting any longer and your engine could be toast if your belt breaks.

[ollygreengiant]

94 850 turbo, 93miles or 150kilos

Nice thanks for the reply, I'll make sure to put the miles down next time, Damb newbies, . Just to clarify, when you mean the "tensioner on Timing belt and serpentine belt" you mean? just buy the wheel replacements, or buy the casted metal with the wheels already together. This link might give a better idea what i rambling about, it gives a couple of replacement options

http://www.eeuroparts.com/searchresults ... 5&cat=1004#
http://www.eeuroparts.com/searchresults ... 5&cat=1004

thank again for the time.. hope these links work