1996 850 2.3T blown #2 Rod at 208k

[tardcart]

there are two different scenarios for the rod to go. Both are from lack of oil. One is the rod seizes up from heat usually on the big end. and since the engine is still Turning it breaks mid section. In this case the crank will be galled. Ive used muriatic acid to remove the welded on aluminum and polished the journal but only on low rpm tractor motors. the second is the big end wears out from lack of oil and gets loose enough to first knock then hammers apart. In that case the crank journal would be egg shape. You could mike it to find out. but most practical is another engine as long as you know its history. (hard)

[amblerman]

Tardcart.
Thanks for the info.
Your description only mentions damage to the crank itself and not any potential damage from the broken pieces of the rod slapping around for a short time.

If this was my car, I'd be taking the pan off just to see what happened. Then I'd probably take off what I needed to just to inspect the crank but I wouldn't be holding out much hope I guess.

In my case I wouldn't be spending any money to have this done. I'd be doing it myself and if that wasn't an option I don't know what I'd do.

Is there a general rule to follow about rehabbing the pan and oil pump system? I know you should do it if you get the oil flicker but what about age? Does the oil system generally fail abruptly or gradually in these cars? (note: I am not implying a failed oil system caused this. I have no idea. Just thinking about my own car. )

[RickHaleParker]

Am I the only one who would try a pan drop, remove rod, polish, new bearing, and run that sucker?

You might not be the only one. The next course of action depends on his motivator. Some people would rebuild the lower end just for the experience. For some, finances would be the motivator.

Around here a short block from a Pick Your Part is $200.00. On a Volvo White block the lower end of a Pick Your Part engine is a good bet.

[Jazzer]

Well, unfortunately I don’t have a garage or driveway; my house was built before the automobile existed, so any work I do has to be done on the street. As much as I’d love to dive in and explore the cause of the damage, I can only do so much on my tiny sidewalk (plus the weather here is still pretty touch and go). I’m lucky to have a local Volvo tech that I can trust, and it’s nice to know I don’t have to try to fix it alone. I’ll see if I can get him to open it up for sh*ts and giggles, and maybe take some pics. Thanks again everyone for your help. I’ll probably never know what really happened to it since I was not the one driving it, sadly.

Bob

[tardcart]

'Is there a general rule to follow about rehabbing the pan and oil pump system? I know you should do it if you get the oil flicker but what about age? Does the oil system generally fail abruptly or gradually in these cars? (note: I am not implying a failed oil system caused this. I have no idea. Just thinking about my own car. )"

Ive been wondering about that too, 22 years. wish volvo just had metal to metal on these ports like every other engine I've seen. From other posters in the past I notice the suction pump pickup pulls/dimples the o ring into the port. shipped like a Pac man.

[WhatAmIDoing]

I think your friends finances’ need to play a role in this, to put it mildly.

Am I the only one who would try a pan drop, remove rod, polish, new bearing, and run that sucker?

I would definitely drop the pan just to survey the damage (for curiosity's sake). If I could get a new rod and crank for cheap, I would be very tempted to try rebuilding the bottom end.

And I don't care how good of friends you are, but if I was you, I would "ask" him to put up for at least a third of the cost.

[tardcart]

nobody lends a car to a friend, only to to a woman who is so cute you cant think straight.

[erikv11]

... Is there a general rule to follow about rehabbing the pan and oil pump system? I know you should do it if you get the oil flicker but what about age? Does the oil system generally fail abruptly or gradually in these cars? (note: I am not implying a failed oil system caused this. I have no idea. Just thinking about my own car. )

General rule for rehabbing? Yes. Drop the pan, change the half dozen (count depends on turbo or NA) seals and o-rings with Volvo branded parts, reinstall pan, good to go for another 10+ years.

When or what age? Light flicker or 20 years or top end noise really lingers at startup, whichever comes first. It's time, drop the pan if you want to be thinking long term about the engine.

What fails and how? Generally only the seals fail, and gradually. There are essentially no reports of bad oil pumps.

I've got extra cars and have lent one to a friend now and then.

[RickHaleParker]

It is pretty obvious there was a defect in the lower end. How do you lay that fault on the friend that used it ... rationally?

I would not overlook the fact that lower end could of went when I was driving it. I don't do irrational blame.

[tardcart]

its true you cant expect people to know what not to do. But it would be nice if they noticed a new light on the dash or didnt just turn up the radio when the engine got loud. Let alone checked the oil at last fill up.