How bad a job is it to diy replace the main crank seal?

[cn90]

- For P2, remove the splash shield (a whole bunch of 12-mm bolts), you will see oil at the weep hole between engine + trans.
Oil will also be aft of this area due to air blowing back while you drive.

- FRONT crank seal is easy.

- REAR crank seal is a different story.

[erikv11]

Sorry that your RMS is leaking. Replacing the RMS is a nightmare compared to the front seal. I replaced the front crankshaft seal on the oil pump twice over the past month. Second time only took 3.5 hours.

How do you detect the RMS is leaking on a P2? Is the oil dripping where the oil sump and AT mate?

Yes, where they mate you will see a weep hole, as mentioned. Super important for a problem this much hassle is to first clean all the oil leaks off, then start over and make sure the first place the leak shows up is the weep hole. Lots of things cam look like RMS, e.g. front cam seal leak, even bad junctions at the PCV box.

[cn90]

Questions re seals. I know when doing this job, one should replace:
- RMS x1
- Trans Input seal x1
- Trans Output seals x2

I just reviewed this excellent DIY Volvo 850 Transmission Removal Step #47 is the Trans Input Seal...
viewtopic.php?t=53437

Question for the gurus re Trans Fluid Pump: when the ATF is pumped into the TC, is there any seal that prevents ATF from leaking INTERNALLY or EXTERNALLY? In other words, are there any seals inside the trans that need to be replaced while the trans is out of the car?

[cn90]

This 2004 V70 with 110K with RMS leak seems to be interesting...

- Back in Feb 2019 (one month ago), it was -20C to -30C, it started leaking a drop here and there. Definitely RMS leak b/c oil is at the weep hole. It was not ATF (not red in color).

- Now it is March 2019 with temp at +10C, the RMS leak has stopped. I am driving w/o the splash shield so I can monitor the leak daily. So far no leak. Oil level is halfway between Min and Max.

Question for the gurus: is it possible for RMS to leak ONLY when it is extremely cold, then it is back to normal when the weather warms up with no leak?

[abscate]

I’m making this up as I write but in deep cold like -30C I can imagine the seal lip getting stiff and this allowing seepage. On warm up, nbetter seal and no leakage.

[cn90]

Can someone verify for me these are the correct PNs for 2004 V70 FWD car, in case I need to buy them:

Volvo dealer price vs Corteco:

- RMS: 9458178: $25 vs $18

- Trans Input Seal (Torque Converter Seal): 9495017: $25 vs $8
- Axle Seal RH: 9495018: $18 vs $10
- Axel Seal LH: 6843112: $26 vs $11


I am just curious re engineering aspect of the TC: when ATF is pumped to the TC, is there a seal inside the trans that seals the passages (to and from the TC)? I wonder if there are any other seals that need to be replaced while the trans is out?

[erikv11]

For the RMS and trans input seals, I would never, ever buy from other than the Volvo dealer, no matter how sure you are about the maker. Remember the few years on this forum where everyone was *certain* that the P80 factory cam seals were made by SKF?

I've replaced the RMS and trans input seals a few times, never another seal while I had the trans out. Those were P80 cars.

Recall that there are many stories on this forum about RMS leaks that started, stopped, etc. over time. Many that just "went away." I highly doubt your observations are related to the bits of temperature data you have for this one car.

Did you try ATP AT-205? Or decide for or against that?

[precopster]

I solved the RMS leak on our XC90 2.5T with a seal conditioner 2.5 years ago. The leak was pretty bad.

Also when I prepared a 1998 V70R for sale 3 years ago I used the same product for an RMS leak (made by a local company called Nulon) The owner texted me afew weeks ago to say he had just completed 480,000kms without issue. Car was sold with 400K and engine/trans was a bit tired.

Read the reviews on the local seal conditioner products and see what the users say. You might get lucky!