Haldex Oil Change

[vtl]

Yes, after the CV joint.

Craftsman 8 Amp Impact Wrench does that nut and many others like crankshaft with no issues.

[Antoine240bk]

After the CV joint out, the 24mm bolt. At this stage you will need to counter hold the Flange or use a impact gun. There is a seal between the Flange and the Haldex, keep it intact not to use a tool to pry the Flange.

[XC70Rider]

Thanks for the info and pictures.

I started to sperate the CV joint late last night. I haven't removed the center bearing yet cause I don't want the shaft to sit on exhaust.

I noticed the CV jont rubber boot is ripped apart. With the ripped boot and rusted away flange I'm replacing it with a Febest brand:

https://www.febest.us/joint-shaft-assem ... xc90sha-en

Volvo wants $300 for the OEM Joint Shaft while Febest cost only $45. Febest was just founded in 2007 within Germany so I presume they don't make OEM parts for Volvo. When it arrives next week I'll remove the OEM Joint Shaft, change the Haldex oil, filter, and the clean up the oil pump with new O-rings, filter, and bolts.

[vtl]

Febest just repacks what it can source from others. $45 is almost assuredly made in China. Though I think I've got Febest on my Colorado Driveshaft reman'ed shaft, and both CV joints are still alive, sort of

[XC70Rider]

Febest just repacks what it can source from others. $45 is almost assuredly made in China. Though I think I've got Febest on my Colorado Driveshaft reman'ed shaft, and both CV joints are still alive, sort of

Talking with them directly they confirmed parts are designed in Germany but manufactured in China. If the OEM CV joint appears in good condition then I'll just use the Febest boot, flange, and seal. I'll shop locally for 6 SS allen head bolts.

[vtl]

CV joints are likely dead, front one for sure (heated up by cat). Don't throw them out just in case, but I take my XC70 to weird places a lot, and it is still intact, driveshaft w/ Febest included.

[XC70Rider]

Rear of the flange has 2 extra holes with threads, use M8 bolts to push the flange out. If the threads are rusted out you may have luck with a cold chisel and hammer on the CV joint itself. One more way is to unbolt the front CV and the support bearing and use the driveshaft itself as a reverse hammer (be ready to replace CV joint).

I inserted two 20mm long M8 bolts on the rear of the flange to push out the CV joint. I pulled and wiggled the shaft but it wouldn't move much so I loosened the prop shaft center support joint bolts. Still couldn't get CV joint out of flange so I rotated the shaft a few 1/4 turns but still no success.





To get the center CV joint angled enough to get the rear CV joint out of the flange does the exhaust need to be dropped?

If that's the case then I'll cut off the OEM resonator and replace with a Walker 47822 Resonator. It's aluminum so I'll coat it with VHT cermaic based exhaust primer and paint. Walker and Magnaflow only makes grade 304 SS exhaust for our P2s.

[vtl]

You need to slacken front CV joint bolts, then the rest will come out.

[XC70Rider]

You need to slacken front CV joint bolts, then the rest will come out.

I'll give it a shot within an hour. The front CV joint flange has protection from the engine splash shield so it's in better shape than the rear. The CV joint might be melted from the CAT but the flange and bolts aren't badly rusted.

Thanks for your assistance.

[Antoine240bk]

Ain't it easier to drop the hangers from the center and rear exhaust? Let it sit lower on the ground, not too much because of the flex joint on the downpipes. That's what i did, then you'll have enough clearance.
There is not much play on the propeller shaft, you'll need to break it at the cross brace.