camshaft locking tool broke...... Topic is solved

[cn90]

Buy some used sensors on ebay and swap them just to test.
Or get cam sensors from local junk yard.

[Goldchemist]

I'm okay going with new ones at this point. Just wondering if the intake and exhaust sensors the same part number? I only see one part come up when I search and can't find any confirmation in the threads. Thanks!!

[abscate]

I see only one part for EXH

Part Number: 30713370
Supersession(s): 8627354

[Goldchemist]

Okay. It seems like the intake and exhaust are the same part number. I just ordered that part from FCP Euro. Part number 3071330. Thanks. I will report back any progress.

[erikv11]

Sorry so late to the party but a couple things:

1) There's only one cam sensor per vehicle, on the back of the exhaust cam, may want to go out and take a look at the car's engine to get a grip on that.

2) P0016 (intake) and P0017 (exhaust) are by far most commonly due to dirty or failing cam solenoids, not to CPS problems. Many, many threads on here if you want to get into it and they can be pesky but first pass is to pull them and clean the oil and crud from the screens. You'll need new gasket(s). Second pass is to replace them. Maybe yours is due to the CPS but more food for thought.

[Goldchemist]

Welcome to the party.

1) There's only one cam sensor per vehicle, on the back of the exhaust cam, may want to go out and take a look at the car's engine to get a grip on that. Now I'm confused, well I was before anyway but....I found this question and answer on the FCP Euro site. I definitely have two sensors, one on the intake and one on the exhaust. I have code P0340 so I purchased what I think is the Intake sensor.

Question: (Posted by: Lisa)
My 2005 volvo xc90 2.5T has a 284: ECM-341B Camshaft position sensor , exhaust code coming up. Is this the exhaust sensor or the intake sensor?
Answer: (Posted by: FCP Product Team)
Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) ECM-340B is for the camshaft position (CMP) sensor, intake. Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) ECM-341B is for the camshaft position (CMP) sensor, exhaust.

2) P0016 (intake) and P0017 (exhaust) are by far most commonly due to dirty or failing cam solenoids, not to CPS problems. Many, many threads on here if you want to get into it and they can be pesky but first pass is to pull them and clean the oil and crud from the screens. You'll need new gasket(s). Second pass is to replace them. Maybe yours is due to the CPS but more food for thought. I hear you. I actually replaced my exhaust solenoid about two years ago. And just cleaned it out again. Still getting the code though.

And I'm reading the P0017 is for the crankshaft position. Gotta run. Be back later. Thanks for the info.

[abscate]

Dont you have to have two sensors for dual VVT cars to detect VVT cam errors?

[Goldchemist]

Hey guys and girls, sorry its been over a month since I've gotten back. (as if anyone really cares)

I thought I'd give an update on my situation in case anyone else is having the same problems. Here is a summary:

1. Major oil leak. This is what started it all. I brought the car to my trusty mechanic and he estimated it would cost over $800 and he wasn't even sure he could find the leak. He knows I like to work on my cars so he suggested I give it a shot. I dove into the forum and youtube headfirst.
2. Started with the PCV system. Changed it all out. Drove around. Still leaked.
3. Changed oil pump seal and gasket. Drove around. Still leaked.
4. Changed camshaft seals, VVT hub o-rings. Timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley, spark plugs. Drove around. Leak not so bad. Timing way off.
5. Decided to take it to my mechanic. BUT WAIT! Car wouldn't start now. Thought I destroyed the engine.
6. Had it towed to my mechanic. He couldn't start it. He thought I destroyed the engine, like bent valves etc.
7. He recommended a local 'specialist'. Had it towed to 'specialist'. Specialist in this case = local guy who specializes in fixing everything the local mechanics can't or don't want to fix.
8. Specialist starts it up in ten minutes. Tells me its the exhaust VVT hub.
9. Purchased new exhaust VVT hub for $300!!!! I suspected this was the problem after all the advice I received here but I had put so much time into this I just wanted it fixed.
10.The specialist replaced the VVT hub and adjusted the hubs until they were PERFECT.
11. My car is running like new. Like new. 162,000 miles and running like new. The specialist only charged me $285 which I know was a GIFT. I gave him $400 though. Honestly I plan to give him more when I have it. I've got three little kids man so money is very tight. (over $400 per week for sitter.) And I must have spent over $1000 when all is said and done.

I'm sure if you just follow the steps in the CVVT hub changing guide posted on this forum you could get the timing right. It explains how to adjust the hub sprockets. Exactly what the specialist told me he did. I just lost patience. The car was in my garage for about 6 months. As I'm also sure you guys could have got my timing right in a jiffy.

I am forever grateful for all the advice I received from everyone here. And to think.......I almost lost her.

Thanks again!!!

[EngineeringBloke]

Congratulations, that is great news. I am sure I am not alone in being glad for you and also in appreciating your update.

[Goldchemist]

Hi abscate, I apologize for not answering your question above......

Dont you have to have two sensors for dual VVT cars to detect VVT cam errors? I'm pretty sure there are two camshaft position sensors. I had as much as I could get off the back of the engine and there was one sensor on the back of each cam shaft. Intake and exhaust.

I dealt with a bad solenoid a while back, tried cleaning it etc. didn't work. replaced it with new and haven't had any problems.