1994 850 N/A Manual won't start

Aheadbeyond · Post by **Aheadbeyond** » 07 Apr 2019, 10:26

Crank but will not start
No MAF codes
Spark on all 5 plugs (plugs were dry)
Compression test a month ago
1. 110 2. 115 3. 120 4. 90 5. 90
Timing good
The only thing is fuel pressure at the schrader value is 35
But the air hose out of the pressure regulator has no gas or smell of gas

Initially symptoms for the past month:
The car would fail to start every once in awhile on first try. I would have to flutter the gas pedal to get it to start.

I do have a egr 154 code flow to high. I didn’t have the egr port cleaned when I had the PCV done a month ago. I did however remove the egr myself and cleaned out the ports at the egr and the manifold. But I wouldn’t think this would cause a no start. (Did this since it won’t start, not before)

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

tardcart · Post by **tardcart** » 07 Apr 2019, 11:03

35 LBS is the bottom of where it would run. You need a new pump it sounds like or replace fuel filter first.

Post by **misha** » 07 Apr 2019, 11:25

Specs are :
43.5psi on 1st prime without starting the car.
Around 35psi at idle.
43.5psi on WOT at high rpm.

Aheadbeyond · Post by **Aheadbeyond** » 07 Apr 2019, 11:33

So since I’m only getting 35psi on first prime and there is no gas or gas smell out of the vacuum port on the fpg. Could it still be the fpg?

tardcart · Post by **tardcart** » 07 Apr 2019, 12:36

also how worn out is this car? those are awful compression numbers. maby a head gasket problem between 4 and 5. Are you sure you are not one tooth off on the exhaust cam?

Post by **misha** » 07 Apr 2019, 13:26

Dry spark plugs after a lots of cranking are showing that injectors are NOT firing or there is no fuel in fuel rail.
Master fuel injection relay (grey one on fan shroud) should be checked and it's connections also.
Other than that....fuel pump relay(jump it for testing) or intermittent fuel pump fault could be culprits.

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 07 Apr 2019, 13:30

tardcart wrote: 07 Apr 2019, 12:36 also how worn out is this car? those are awful compression numbers. maby a head gasket problem between 4 and 5. Are you sure you are not one tooth off on the exhaust cam?

Yeah, compression on 4 and 5 is not good. Possibly bad head gasket. I would investigate that first before putting any more money or work into it.

tardcart · Post by **tardcart** » 07 Apr 2019, 13:49

I think 90 is the floor where a volvo won't support combustion at cranking speed. I guess the 120 cylinder could get the rest going to run
but not if it's fuel starved.

Aheadbeyond · Post by **Aheadbeyond** » 07 Apr 2019, 16:56

This car is worn. Road hard put away wet.
Did a favor for a friend buying it.
I’m pretty sure my timing is good. I don’t have timing tools but I cranked the engine with the ignition until the driver side was lined up with the marks and then checked the timing belt side. Lines up pretty spot on.
Connections into the MFIR look good. Is there anyway of testing the relay itself?
Never had a rise in coolant level in the reservoir tank. Don’t have a exhaust gas tester. But even if the HG is blown it should still run.
Pulled spark plugs put some stater fluid in. Didn’t even sputter.
Anyone need a parts car

tardcart · Post by **tardcart** » 07 Apr 2019, 17:08

sorry it worked out that way. Volvos are bad cars to buy when they have had delayed or no maintenance. Its best to get a garaged and dealer maintained one that has a a bad trans, rack or head gasket. that way you only have one big job and nice car at the end, if you are poor boying it. Maby you should keep it if you have the space and use it for parts when you buy another. would advise turbo '96 wagon only unless you dont care about fast.