Login Register

[2001 V70 2.4T] Thorough brake bleeding job?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

Post Reply
User avatar
abscate
MVS Moderator
Posts: 35288
Joined: 17 February 2013
Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
Has thanked: 1502 times
Been thanked: 3817 times

Re: [2001 V70 2.4T] Thorough brake bleeding job?

Post by abscate »

/Im pretty sure redundant brake systems with two independent hydraulics became required in the States about 1967 - you guys are usually ahead of us on car stuff in EU, though.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

User avatar
Rattnalle
Posts: 1674
Joined: 1 September 2017
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
Location: Sweden
Has thanked: 20 times
Been thanked: 133 times

Post by Rattnalle »

I just didn't think the redundancy was due to split reservoir. I thought it split a little further down.

User avatar
abscate
MVS Moderator
Posts: 35288
Joined: 17 February 2013
Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
Has thanked: 1502 times
Been thanked: 3817 times

Post by abscate »

Ive always bled by looping the hose up into the springs, then down into the container. Air bubble rise to the top of the loop, and if there is any suction it pulls fluid back in. I would say 95% of the time I get good pedal and feel with just pumping the pedal fast, then slow return, with a single person method.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

cn90
Posts: 8256
Joined: 31 March 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
Location: Omaha NE
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 468 times

Post by cn90 »

- If you already own an air compressor, built it up 10-15 psi max.
- Then make an ATE brake cap as shown below and bleed using air compressor (I have used this technique for over 10 years, and it is very simple, nothing to clean after you are done).

DIY: 1-man Hydraulic Bleeding Kit for those with Air Compressor!
viewtopic.php?t=29243
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

User avatar
oragex
Posts: 5347
Joined: 24 May 2013
Year and Model: S60 2003
Location: Canada
Has thanked: 102 times
Been thanked: 352 times
Contact:

Post by oragex »

Rattnalle wrote: 11 Apr 2019, 09:00
tardcart wrote: 11 Apr 2019, 08:53 I have never been able to get a broken bleeder out including heat and easy outs. You will need to replace the caliper. dont try drilling it, it ruined the seat.
I've gotten a few out using a pipe wrench.. :)

I think he meant one that was sheared without any length past the surface of the caliper.. had the same experience, in the end had to replace the caliper. My lesson is, if the bleeder is stuck and stands the fight, leave it there and order a new caliper right away then keep fighting with the bleeder. If by chance the bleeder finally comes out, never install it back - I broke one when tightening it back so image it was already almost completely weakened by fighting with it. Always install a new or used bleeder back in place - I get them at the junk yard when they come out easily, or at Volvo - there are no aftermarket ones that fit in there properly.

Especially the rear ones are problematic, perhaps because the front ones get removed more often by mechanics (just a theory). On my base 2.4 non turbo, it's the same bleeder front and rear, just the tip of it differs a little but it's interchangeable.

User avatar
prwood
Posts: 689
Joined: 2 October 2015
Year and Model: 2001 V70 2.4T
Location: Salem, Massachusetts, USA
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 22 times
Contact:

Post by prwood »

Replacement calipers - any significant difference (other than price) between these three options?

- $43.19 Cardone: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... ar-19b2601
- $60.47 Centric: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -142-39525
- $182.65 Genuine Volvo: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 70-8251313
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

User avatar
abscate
MVS Moderator
Posts: 35288
Joined: 17 February 2013
Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
Has thanked: 1502 times
Been thanked: 3817 times

Post by abscate »

prwood wrote: 29 Apr 2019, 07:12 Replacement calipers - any significant difference (other than price) between these three options?

- $43.19 Cardone: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... ar-19b2601
- $60.47 Centric: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -142-39525
- $182.65 Genuine Volvo: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 70-8251313
The first two will last two years and will freeze in NYc with your spouse driving the car when you are arguing with a guy in the Middle East over your passport.

The last one is the price of admission to not having that experience.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

User avatar
oragex
Posts: 5347
Joined: 24 May 2013
Year and Model: S60 2003
Location: Canada
Has thanked: 102 times
Been thanked: 352 times
Contact:

Post by oragex »

As above, I remember poor ratings on Cardone, but I might be wrong.

A used genuine from a Florida car (Ebay) would be the finest bet. These last forever when they don't rust - rust builds up even inside the cylinder bore in the salt belt areas

I've used both suction and pressure brake bleeders. The pressure one works fine, while the suction one was sucking air from outside through the bleeder threads and would always show air bubbles inside the plastic hose over the bleeder

Depressing the brake pedal down - but only the normal travel, not further more - should push the fluid properly and bleed nicely all wheels. When replacing a caliper or just bleeding, I like to first push the caliper piston all the way in by hand, this will empty/bleed faster all fluid/air inside the piston

I've also done ABS module and master cylinder bleeding successfully (I think) www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcwYnG6Fg9I , however to bleed the ABS unit Volvo used a pressure bleeder and hooks up Vida and runs a program on the solenoids, to bleed it. Good to never let the fluid inside the reservoir drop under the min - I removed that filter cup to better see the fluid level inside the reservoir

danxcook
Posts: 1
Joined: 6 June 2019
Year and Model: 2004 S60R
Location: Minneapolis MN
Has thanked: 1 time

Post by danxcook »

To bleed, do you need to activate the ABS motor AND the corresponding valve (i.e. Left Front) or ONLY the valve?

User avatar
oragex
Posts: 5347
Joined: 24 May 2013
Year and Model: S60 2003
Location: Canada
Has thanked: 102 times
Been thanked: 352 times
Contact:

Post by oragex »

There's two different things - bleeding the calipers and bleeding the ABS unit (actually there is also a third thing, bleeding the master cylinder). For the ABS unit, Volvo connects the car to VIDA and activates a certain sequence of the ABS solenoids to bleed the air with a pressure bleeder at one of the calipers. You may try bleeding without VIDA the ABS unit and also the master using this technique (may or may not work) www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGU-glkL2B0

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post