07 S60 Immobilizer / Communication Errors / No Start

d3ktrix · Post by **d3ktrix** » 21 Apr 2019, 21:20

Hey guys, trying to figure out a no start issue with my sisters Volvo.

2007 S60 AWD 2.5T
158k miles

Problem started with rough idle and stalling at idle multiple times in 1 day. When trying to restart it sometimes it would Crank No Start. Sometimes nothing at all would happen when she turned the key, dash lights stayed on though.
When it restarted it would show Anti-Skid service required on the dash.
One time when it restarted it said Engine Power Reduced.
Engine light was also on.

She stopped by a shop on the way home to get the codes read to make sure it was safe to drive. They pulled:
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit / Range Performance.
The car has a history of MAF errors that normally show up like once a year and go away. A new bosch MAF was installed about 60k ago didn’t help.

After that spat of issues the car drove perfectly fine for a week.
Then one time after she shut it off, it would not restart.

Dash now shows:
Immobilizer - See Manual
Anti-Skid Service Required

When you first put the key in and try to start it, the dash lights come on but it will not crank. If you leave the key in position II for a minute or so it will crank but it doesn't get any fuel and will not start.

The fuel pump comes on, fuel pressure shows 43psi
No fuel in cylinder or on plug after cranking (guessing immobilizer mode turned off the injectors?)

Fully charged unloaded battery voltage is 12.2v.
With key/headlights on it shows 11.9v
Load tests at 450-500amps
I know this is low and that can cause wonky problems but jumping the car or having it on 10 or 50amp charger doesn't help the problem at all. I'll replace it once we get it running.

I tried every DIY immobilizer reset I could find online, and none of them had any affect on getting the car out of immobilizer mode. Unlock/lock 5x, key on/off 5x, service reset, disconnecting the battery overnight.

All fuses test good with continuity tester
Antenna keyring contacts look spotless

These are the codes the car shows now. This is what came back immediately after clearing all old codes.

BCM 0100 Communication between control units communicational problems with ECM
CEM 1A62 Communication with ECM control module signal missing
ECM 8210 System Relay
ECM 970B Accelerator Pedal (AP) sensor, digital sensor
ECM 800B System relay
ECM 680D ECU-box cooling fan
ECM 340C Inlet camshaft sensor
ECM 341C Exhaust camshaft sensor

Additional codes that DID NOT COME BACK, COULD BE OLD
CEM 8A20 Low beam left signal too low
CEM 6F01 Cruise button activated too long
CEM 9C03 Antenna/light ring signal missing
DDM 0030 Rear view mirror potentiometer faulty signal
DDM 0032 Rear view mirror potentiometer faulty signal
PDM E010 Control module internal fault
PDM 0022 Power windows hall sensor 1 or 2 faulty signal
SAS 0010 Steering wheel angle sensor internal fault
SAS 000F Steering wheel angle sensor internal fault
SAS 000E Steering wheel angle sensor internal fault
Also the MAF error listed earlier.

Also probably unrelated but the threads on the spark plug from cylinder #2 was covered in oil, but the electrode / insulator were clean. So it's doing a good job of burning it lol.
Before loosening the plug I noticed a small amount of oil sitting around the base of the plug.
Tho there was no signs of oil leaking down into the recessed plug hole.
The plug was tight.
The car does consume over a quart of oil between the 6k mile oil changes.
Was expecting a low compression reading from that cylinder..

Cylinders 1-4 compression tested @ 135 PSI, #5 showed about 120. I believe they are all this low because immobilizer mode prevented the throttle plate from opening during the test.

Going by the communication errors Im guessing bad CEM? ECM?
Was thinking antenna ring before I pulled all the module codes, but I don’t think that would cause stalling anyway.

Sorry for the long post, trying to give as much info as possible.
Thank you.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 21 Apr 2019, 22:33

Reset/clean the wiring harness connectors on the CEM.

Pretty common cause of Immobilizer - Anti-Skid Service Required on S60s and S40s.
Can cause a lot of other errors ...everything communicates with the CEM.

d3ktrix · Post by **d3ktrix** » 21 Apr 2019, 22:43

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑21 Apr 2019, 22:33 Reset/clean the wiring harness connectors on the CEM.

Pretty common cause of Immobilizer - Anti-Skid Service Required on S60s and S40s.
Can cause a lot of other errors ...everything communicates with the CEM.

ok thanks, ill grab a bottle of electrical contact cleaner and try that.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 21 Apr 2019, 22:47

A electronics cleaning brush helps scrub off any oxides.

Post by **abscate** » 22 Apr 2019, 05:23

You will chase your tail forever until you fix this

Fully charged unloaded battery voltage is 12.2v.
With key/headlights on it shows 11.9v
Load tests at 450-500amps
I know this is low and that can cause wonky problems but jumping the car or having it on 10 or 50amp charger doesn't help the problem at all. I'll replace it once we get it running.

A P2 needs a solid firm battery’s voltage for all the electronics To work. Jump packs and chargers won’t help

Swap In a good battery from a running car for a week

d3ktrix · Post by **d3ktrix** » 22 Apr 2019, 06:15

Does it make a difference that it was jumped to another car with very heavy duty jumper cables? Not a jump pack. Or still wouldn't help?
If not I'll grab a new battery.
Thanks

EDIT:
Looks like I was mistaken about the battery being fully charged last time I tested it. I topped it off yesterday with a peak charger. After load testing it this morning it still read 12.7v and tested at 600amp. Battery is rated for 700 or 750.
I'll keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't drop back down abnormally fast.

Post by **oragex** » 22 Apr 2019, 09:52

What's the alternator voltage at warm idle?

The anti skid 'may' be related to the angle sensor (can try a used one) www.youtube.com/watch?v=idmPhHNNixI

For the non start/immobilizer problem, may get some hints on this topic (good to read all posts) https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... mmobilizer

d3ktrix · Post by **d3ktrix** » 22 Apr 2019, 10:25

oragex wrote: ↑22 Apr 2019, 09:52 What's the alternator voltage at warm idle?

The anti skid 'may' be related to the angle sensor (can try a used one) www.youtube.com/watch?v=idmPhHNNixI

For the non start/immobilizer problem, may get some hints on this topic (good to read all posts) https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... mmobilizer

I can't check the alternator voltage, the car has refused to start for the last week. I didn't make that clear in my OP.

Thanks for the resources.

d3ktrix · Post by **d3ktrix** » 22 Apr 2019, 23:41

I checked/reset and cleaned all the connectors on the CEM. They were all spotless though. No signs of water leaking on top of it, the cover was sealed very well.
There really isn't any signs of corrosion on the car anywhere.
There was no change after the cleaning.

Even after multiple starter cranks, load tests and sitting all day the battery still reads 12.6-12.7v and 600amps.

Checked the other resources and didn't find anything that could help.

Thanks for the help so far guys.

Post by **precopster** » 23 Apr 2019, 03:31

Look up number of keys fitted in CEM parameters. Could be that key data is lost. Are you using Vida?