Genuine Volvo ATF is NOT Mobil 3309...
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vtl
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Re: Genuine Volvo ATF is NOT Mobil 3309...
$57.99 for 4 liters (1161640) at FCP: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/automa ... er-1161640
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vtl
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The original design uses Arduino Due, Due CAN-shield (by togglebit) and 4DSystems uLCD-24PT. I'm working on a cheaper design: ESP32, regular MCP2515 shields, newer-bigger-cheaper display, but my off-work hours are badly oversubscribed.
You also need a bunch of DB-9/DB-25 connectors, CAT-5 cable (not a solid core!) and some other small stuff, like heat shrink tubing, etc.
You also need a bunch of DB-9/DB-25 connectors, CAT-5 cable (not a solid core!) and some other small stuff, like heat shrink tubing, etc.
- oragex
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SuperHerman wrote: ↑30 Apr 2019, 16:49 Question: Is Adaptation needed after doing a fluid change? Answer, which is consistent with what I understand, is yes. Being lazy rather than boot up VIDA, I searched. See here: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthrea ... Adaptation
Herman, that link seems to point to the idea of not resetting/relearning the adaptations just because of fluid change. That's what JRL and I think vtl seem to be saying on that thread. But correct me if I understood the wrong way.
All in all, after installing new Rostra solenoids, I found the relearn process very difficult to complete. In fact, my car didn't even complete that process and I took a good 1:30h driving the car and waiting for the triangle light: some shift points never got to light on so were not learned during that process. Good to think of it, this relearn process is not that easy to accomplish - well at least not with just new main solenoids, perhaps it would work easier with a whole new valve body.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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IslandV70
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Would this be a starting point??vtl wrote: ↑01 May 2019, 09:25 The original design uses Arduino Due, Due CAN-shield (by togglebit) and 4DSystems uLCD-24PT. I'm working on a cheaper design: ESP32, regular MCP2515 shields, newer-bigger-cheaper display, but my off-work hours are badly oversubscribed.
You also need a bunch of DB-9/DB-25 connectors, CAT-5 cable (not a solid core!) and some other small stuff, like heat shrink tubing, etc.
https://freematics.com/products/arduino ... ics-kit-1/
maybe this needs another thread. I love your display.
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vtl
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No, Nano can't fit in all of the fatty software, plus it does not have IO pins.IslandV70 wrote: ↑01 May 2019, 11:09 Would this be a starting point??
https://freematics.com/products/arduino ... ics-kit-1/
maybe this needs another thread. I love your display.
This can be a starting point: http://togglebit.net/product/arduino-due-car-kit/
Or let's do a ESP32 version, it is cheaper ($11 for the MCU itself, like $1.5 for one CAN-controller, need two of them). I'm barely motivated to finish it otherwise, 'cause I already have a working Due version
Yeah, new thread is good. Wanna start?
- abscate
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Give me a thread title and I’ll cull this one out guys
Thanks for self moderating, awesome...
Thanks for self moderating, awesome...
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- abscate
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FOUNd it, never mind
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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XC70Rider
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My theory the ATF is still coming out dark after several drains and 1 gibbons flush is the BG Quick Clean. It is a harsh cleanser used for only several minutes of shifting with a warm engine. I added the BG ATC+ Lube Guard after those drains to neutralize the solvent.
I got 4L of Genuine Valvoline ATF and Lubeguard HFM delivered today. Before I add in the Genuine Volvo ATF I'm going to add in the half priced Idemitsu TLS again to get more of the gunk cleansed out.
I've driven the wagon 188 miles since last weekends AT sump drain. After I drain again tomorrow I'll add in 3.5 quarts of Idemtisu TLS with a few ounces of Lubeguard HFM. After driving for at least 100+ miles I'll drain it out and study the contents of the warm ATF. If it appears cleaner I'll add in 3.5 quarts of the Genuine Volvo ATF with a few ounces of Lubeguard HFM.
Last edited by XC70Rider on 04 May 2019, 08:34, edited 1 time in total.
- oragex
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I had a lot of troubles measuring the level with the Valvoline stuff. In winter there would be no traction on cold mornings - fluid would shrink and be too low inside the torque converter, and in hot summer days the level would show way above hot level. Got rid of it and put Type IV from Toyota, those issues all gone.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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XC70Rider
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It appears Toyota Type IV and Idemitsu TLS (Toyota/Lexus/Scion) are the same ATFs. The Idemitsu TLS has 'Type IV' written on the container. As other members have mentioned Idemitsu TLS is the closest viscosity match to Genuine Volvo ATF. Being a thicker ATF it takes longer to pour Idemitsu TLS via the long dipstick than Mobil 3309.
I forgot to reset the fluid counter when I first switched from Mobil 3009 to Idemitsu TLS. My wagon is shifting smoother with the Idemitsu TLS now. I'm just trying Genuine Volvo ATF to see if makes a difference. If she shifts fine then I'll let run for 10K+ more miles before the next AT sump drain.
I forgot to reset the fluid counter when I first switched from Mobil 3009 to Idemitsu TLS. My wagon is shifting smoother with the Idemitsu TLS now. I'm just trying Genuine Volvo ATF to see if makes a difference. If she shifts fine then I'll let run for 10K+ more miles before the next AT sump drain.
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