Lower control arm and CV boot, should I bother?

gcha8e · Post by **gcha8e** » 16 May 2019, 10:41

I'm a rookie, and need advice. Have had this S60 for 3 years now and I really love it, even though it's a bit squeaky, it can haul ass. It's not worth as much as it would cost to replace the front suspension. I have a Haynes repair manual but it' doesn't help me figure it out completely.

The control arm bushings are bad, so I've got to replace those along with new steering limits. The problem is going to be the CV boot. The boots are intact but are releasing grease and there probably is not a whole lot left in there. When I take off the control arm I'm right there to get the CV boot. I'm not sure I should take apart the joints to get a new boot on there for fear of screwing up the bearings or just for fear I won't get the axle back into the transmission or something along those lines.

How should I go about this?

So far the only things I've replaced on my own are the upper engine mount and a wheel bearing.hub. I'd like to resolve the poorly wearing tires by fixing the control arms.

crlande · Post by **crlande** » 16 May 2019, 11:31

Need to see where the grease is coming from. If boot is still good it may be coming from loose clamps, you may be able to tighten a little.

Post by **matthew1** » 16 May 2019, 12:05

Control arms/boots/CV axles are all not complicated. There's nothing to mess up, no tricky gotchas. Just go slow and ask questions here as you go. Post photos of items you have particular questions on.

Do research here - we've got all this stuff covered. How to, which products to buy, etc.

gcha8e · Post by **gcha8e** » 16 May 2019, 12:24

I did get the crimper tool for the CV boot clamps... and have a Rein CV boot kit (off Amazon) if I ruin anything. But I think I would still need to remove the axle to get in there .... should I try to squirt additional grease in there before I tighten it back up?

Main thing is the clunk when fully turning, which I am told is due to the sagging arms from worn bushings. Removing the passenger control arm requires lifting the engine..... I had to abandon the project last weekend because I wasn't prepared to undo all the engine mounts at that time (videos seemed to just show the drivers side, which doesn't require lifting the engine, uhg.)

I cannot tell if the lower engine mount on the passenger side really needs replacing or not, I found it behind the wheel but when I inspected it I couldn't tell if it was worn.... Since I have to unbolt it anyway, I figured I'd replace it too?

Additionally I'm going to remove the smallish clunkyness during accelleration by doing the lower torque rod, that one seems pretty easy.

Thanks for the tips. I will post some pics when I get going.

Post by **oragex** » 16 May 2019, 14:59

If you pull the arm, you'll have to undo the axle from the hub, so suspend the hub somewhere (don't undo the brake hose and careful with the wire to the abs sensor, a small pull on it may have the cable break inside, to undo the sensor press with a flat screwdriver from underneath). I prefer removing the two lower bolts at the strut - makes the job much easier www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxC9Ek9HhGI

Need to support the axle with a wire attached to the strut, so it doesn't hang free or it may dismantle. If the clamp is the OEM one, it's really hard to bent open, and even worse to close back unless you have a very solid clamp. Then squeeze some fresh grease inside (not too much, 2-3 full table spoons of grease) www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mkWzAaHyJE

The long axle with the carrier bearing is just two more bolts at the bearing. I pulled my axles with the OEM wheel lug wrench, it has a flat end and can be inserted between the CV joint and the transmission, pry and pops out - mine was easy but some just don't want to come out

May get a Lemforder control arm, it's really not expensive at $200 for two (don't trust Meyle or other stuff) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -p2cakt2p2

If the ball joints are easy to turn but no play, I'd leave them alone

About the right engine mount www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4nvecLGeOU

Post by **cn90** » 16 May 2019, 15:43

CV boot, I installed Rein boots in my 1998 S70, at 3y/22k, I saw minor cracks. Stick to GKN boot!

Control arm: ball joint Lemforder. If whole arm, Volvo only.

Post by **BlackBart** » 16 May 2019, 16:28

There's a great company I have used called Raxles, in GA I think. They have a very good reputation for rebuilding OEM axles with all OEM parts. It might be cheaper than changing a CV joint yourself. Check to see if they can get Volvo axles...
https://www.raxles.com/noregrind.aspx

I have to do control arms soon. I'm planning on the ipd heavy duty ones with better rubber....
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11969/1 ... 7-36051004

Post by **BlackBart** » 16 May 2019, 16:55

BlackBart wrote: ↑16 May 2019, 16:28 There's a great company I have used called Raxles, in GA I think. They have a very good reputation for rebuilding OEM axles with all OEM parts. It might be cheaper than changing a CV joint yourself. Check to see if they can get Volvo axles...
https://www.raxles.com/noregrind.aspx

I have to do control arms soon. I'm planning on the ipd heavy duty ones with better rubber....
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11969/1 ... 7-36051004

<EDIT> ...there's also the Garage Sale going on at ipd this weekend - maybe they're on sale!

Post by **vtl** » 16 May 2019, 17:54

FCP sells GKN axles - this is what Volvo put in our cars. GKN is half of the Volvo price, yet still durable. I bought one axle from Volvo ($600) when GKN was not yet available, the other side was replaced year later with GKN. Few years, 20+k miles/year, including dirt and gravel roads, both axles still have no play. I had enough share of Chinese and US reman axles, they were either junk out of the box or lasted for 10k miles or less. I think one of the most expensive ($200ish) was Raxles, and it was not good.

XC70Rider · Post by **XC70Rider** » 17 May 2019, 09:44

The outer boot on my right front axle is just starting to leak. I squeezed in some CV grease and put on a new clamp from below last week.

To keep the axles to last the life of the vehicle I'm going to rebuild them using these GKN kits and seals from FCP costing $67:

1. Outer Boot kit GKN 31256231 x2
2. Inner Boot kit GKN 303946 x2
3. Left Seal Corteco 19033885B x1
4. Right Seal Corteco 9143885 x1

I'll use the Red Line Synthetic CV grease from Amazon costing $20.

5. Red Line 80402 Synthetic CV Grease x1