Wheel bearing Hub puller

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 22 May 2019, 12:43

Do I need this tool (Bearing Hub puller) if I wanted to attempt to change out my front wheel bearing?

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 22 May 2019, 13:45

No "hub puller" tool is required.
After removing the tie rod nut and freeing the stud and freeing the ABS sensor and its wire and both strut bolts you remove the center bolt.
Maybe a tap with a hammer will be needed to free the axle's spline shaft. Mine didn't.
I've read where people who experienced axle ping coated their axles' splines with a glue to eliminate sounds.
You'll see the bolt heads to unscrew. The bearing will just separate from the knuckle. A slight tap with the same hammer might be needed.

Post by **oragex** » 22 May 2019, 18:29

Mr Detail, do you want to replace the bearing by removing it from the hub, or simply to remove the hub from the car ?

The much easier way is to get a hub+bearing used from the junkyard or Ebay, test the bearing by hand for turning smooth, and install it. Careful with the abs sensor, always push it up free from underneath with a flat screwdriver, never pull on the wire

If you are still looking to remove the bearing from the hub - remember to buy the recommended bearing brands - then my experience is my bearing was so solidly stuck in there at 100k miles, I'm not even sure a solid three arm puller would have been enough. I hammered it out for hours but I wouldn't do it again. Btw, hammering the plate where the wheel lugs screw in, will immediately cause this plate to bend a little - never install back such bearing because the lugs will break loose when driving the car (ask me how I know

)

By the way, my warm recommendation is to always turn the bearing by hand (with the brakes, disc and axle removed) before replacing it. I did remove a perfectly fine bearing, when it was the tire that was making the noise

There's 4 big bolts securing the bearing - recommended to undo and suspend the axle first but I did it with the axle on just the center bolt removed (not safe as it can dismantle the outer cv joint) This got to be one of my first Volvo videos www.youtube.com/watch?v=27a5YvRtVms

Post by **cn90** » 22 May 2019, 22:30

A 3-jaw puller is all you need.
It is a useful tool, about $15 --> $20 at auto parts store.

The idea is: the 3 jaws hold the hub and the long bolt pushes the axle inward (place the axle bolt on loosely so the hub puller bolt can push on the axle bolt, so the threads inside the axle are not damaged).
Spray the splines area with lubricant one day ahead of time, it will come out nicely.

Sorry no photo for the Volvo, but below is the REAR Hub on my 1998 BMW 528i, same idea on any car:

: BMWE39RrBearing11.JPG (122.7 KiB) Viewed 6045 times

Post by **abscate** » 23 May 2019, 04:54

I’ve Done 5 of these bearings on Volvo now, And on three of them I could not tell the horrible howling bearing from new by feel. No way I’ll put a junkyard on one a car unless it’s obviously new and an OEM FAG

tardcart · Post by **tardcart** » 23 May 2019, 05:39

I don't think its a good idea to place the center of the three jaw puller on the drive shaft. they were not designed for high side load. If its stuck as most are, a slide hammer mounted on a harmonic balancer remover would be best. Great early video Orange.

Post by **cn90** » 23 May 2019, 06:00

No need for slide hammer.

The most difficult part is how to separate the axle from the hub (seized with time, corrosion, Loctite). The 3-jaw puller will push the end of the axle INWARD without issue.

The axle diameter is huge and can handle the force w/o issues. I have done this many times, zero problems.

tardcart · Post by **tardcart** » 23 May 2019, 06:12

I misunderstood, thats a great way to push the axle back. I thought you were using it to pull the bearing (if frozen in knuckle)

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 23 May 2019, 06:28

Thank you all. " oragex" I planned to replace the whole hub with bearing included. About $75 new. With that said do I still need the puller?

Post by **oragex** » 23 May 2019, 06:51

As mentioned above, the bearing brand is important. There were reports on getting aftermarket bearings that didn't last. I think SKF and FAG are the ones to buy. The puller is not needed if replacing the complete hub with bearing, only sometimes the axle will not slide back from the hub - cn90 shows how to push it back. Good to undo the 14mm axle bolt, and try pushing the axle back - no need to remove the wheel, to be sure it moves. The 14mm bolt is important as it's stretch type, maybe google up a little about it

There are other tricky steps when removing the hub www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxC9Ek9HhGI