Still Crank No Start. Very Strange

goldmandan · Post by **goldmandan** » 03 Jul 2019, 19:34

Ok so i'm back to battling this weird issue. I have a 2001 S60 2.4T which I put a brand new Volvo battery in. If battery has been disconnected it and I connect it again the engine will crank and I have to "feather" the gas to get it to start. Once started it runs strong with no trouble and I drive it a bit, shut it off and it will start back up. Now, If I leave the car sit for a few days, it will just crank forever and not start, even if feathering the gas. What can this be? Parasitic draw bringing voltage too low to allow for it to start?? I do have a stored "code" but no check engine light on. The code points to fuel relay positive high resistance or something to that matter. I swapped that relay just tonight. have put the battery on charge overnight so let's see what happens tomorrow

Any input is GREATLY appreciated! I'm breaking my head over this!

Dan

Post by **oragex** » 04 Jul 2019, 09:39

It looks like you don't get gas - or at least not enough pressure. How is the fuel filter ? Would also look at the fuel pressure sensor if there's one (less probable if the car drives fine)

Very possible a current drain - usually the alarm siren will cause that, easy to just remove its fuse. Mind you, the new car battery will get damaged if it's constantly drained when parked. I would leave it disconnected (+ cable off) to preserve it, until you find the issue.

A 10A voltmeter can be used to measure any drain and also the battery. I will soon post a video showing how to measure these on the S60

How is the temp gauge moving once the engine starts, does it climb slowly and steadily to 12 ?

goldmandan · Post by **goldmandan** » 04 Jul 2019, 11:30

Temp gauge shows fine, I have a leak in the hose that goes under the intake to the thermostat housing from when I replaced PCV box a "low coolant, stop car soon" message would not keep it from starting would it?
I replaced the ECM from another 2001 S60 assuming it may be the cause. Once I installed it and put the freshly charged "new" battery it almost started but didnt, it smells of gas as if flooding and I pulled all plugs and checked compression 150 all across on all cyls. I cranked engine with all plugs out to air out any flooding.... replaced plugs and coils as well as fuel injector connectors..... still will crank and not start.
I suspect someone has already disconnected the alarm connector as the sunroof works and when I lock the car the lights will not blink

anything I may have overlooked? I have a 2003 that is rough looking but runs fine, am planning to borrow the fuel injectors to see if that may fix the problem....... fuel filter I don't know if it's been replaced on the non starting one.....

goldmandan · Post by **goldmandan** » 04 Jul 2019, 17:04

Ok put the old ECM in and now the car starts and runs fine! WTF!?!?!?!?

Post by **abscate** » 04 Jul 2019, 17:06

Put a fuel pressure gauge on The fuel rail to confirm 50 psi fuel pressure. It needs to be spot on pressure in P2 cars, unlike the earlier ones

Post by **abscate** » 04 Jul 2019, 17:08

When the ecm software andVIN aren’t matched the car will catch and run for a second then stop. It usually won’t fire again until the mismatch code is cleared internally by the ECM

goldmandan · Post by **goldmandan** » 04 Jul 2019, 19:31

ok will check fuel pressure tomorrow!

Dan

goldmandan · Post by **goldmandan** » 05 Jul 2019, 05:57

Abscate,

Would an immobilizer code trigger if you installed a wrong ECM?

Post by **abscate** » 06 Jul 2019, 03:39

goldmandan wrote: ↑05 Jul 2019, 05:57 Abscate,

Would an immobilizer code trigger if you installed a wrong ECM?

I don’t think so. Trying to remember the code someone posted here once. I thought it was something like ECM mismatch but I’ll try to search and see.

goldmandan · Post by **goldmandan** » 07 Jul 2019, 16:10

Abscate,

I had the car running the other day and it would shut off and fire right back up again. Then I disconnected the negative for the weekend as I didn't want a parasitic draw to be the cause of not starting. Just connected battery and it took a while again to get it started..... I did find a coolant leak and fixed that and swapped the after market coils I bought back to the OEM ones. Once it starts it runs fine. It has the "low coolant, stop car asap" message on the dash eventhough the reservoir is full.. Where is the low coolant sensor located on 2001?? It's not in the reservoir! Maybe the thermostat housing? I resealed that also. OH, and when I plugged my scanner in it would not pick up any VIN.... meaning the ECM doesn't respond............... is this an ECM issue maybe????

So confused....
Dan