PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt Topic is solved

[a3inverter]

I cut it down to 12.4mm and still can't get it to fit. Assuming the friend at work isn't on vacation this week I should be able to try #1 by mid-week. Glenn, I hope you have fared better.

[GlennG2759]

Abscate is right. Thermo housing has to come out. I've tried every tool in my arsenal and no go. A3inverter idea of a welded ext/ soc could work, or possibly rachetting crowsfoot. I've eventually have to do a TB, so wait and see and do it all. Thank you everybody for your input.

[cn90]

This is interesting as to why some people (such as oragex) have no problem, while others struggle?

Just came up with this idea...sacrifice a 10-mm box wrench (cut the wrench near the "box" part), then go to muffler shop and weld the 1/4-inch extension to it like a crow foot but it is "box" for better bite.

[abscate]

Has anyone tried a 1/4 drive 10mm socket on a flex (spring) extension?

If you can get that on, an impact will both back it off and torque it down without fuss.

[chrism]

I cut it down to 12.4mm and still can't get it to fit.

Can you grind the socket down to a smaller O.D. up by the end that receives the extension? The closer to the top, the smaller the diameter. Someone in this thread mentioned that those bolts don’t require much torque so you may be able to remove a fair amount of material without compromising too much strength.

[GlennG2759]

Another great idea, I have not seen one of those spring extensions in many years. Gone is 2" wobble ext., 10mm wobble socket, and a stubby thin walled 10mm socket into the bowels of the engine.

[SuperHerman]

This is what works for me on the Volvos I have encountered. The dimensions can be seen - the 10mm socket portion is about 13.5 long before it starts to taper. Looks like it swivels about 30 degrees in all directions - rotating on a ball and socket construction.

I am not sure what a 1/4" wobble extension would provide, but the socket would not be as wide and would be about the same length - the dimensions of your donor 10mm socket is on the long side.

I forgot to mention - the first time I looked into the repair I read that people remove a bracket and grind it so that next time the job has to be performed there is no problem. As I never had the problem I did not do any grinding. But it maybe that the only way yours is going to come out is to remove that bracket - not even sure it is applicable in your instance.

[a3inverter]

For the record, this is what I'm going to attempt making. I won't be quitting my day job to become an artist

[abscate]

I was just in Lowes looking at hardware and I saw an M6 SS screw with a hex head.

A ball joint driver would go on that at almost a 45 degree angle and loosen/tighten up nicely.

Good luck with that weld, A3!

[a3inverter]

Update:

Decided to take the route of replacing the t-stat housing to gain clear access to the last lower left intake manifold bolt. This required obtaining a long T-40 socket drive bit to fit underneath the housing. This one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV64HO/re ... tDbEFZ7435

One nice thing about the 2006 NA model...no banjo bolt or clogged coolant hose/vacuum hose assembly under the manifold!

This job needs lots of 1/4" drive sockets and extensions with wobbles in some places. Minimal sludge thanks to the previous owner's dedication to synthetic oil - tested by blowing through a spare fuel line hose and heard bubbling from the oil pan.

FCP Euro PCV kit had lots of extra parts (double checked the engine number) but wound up needing a spare Oetiker clamp so it worked out.

Took me about 4.5 hours total.

Tomorrow I'll change the oil, top off the coolant, put the belly pan back on and start thinking about R&Ring the steering rack

In other news, met the guy who owns the only other V70 in my office park on Friday. He's got the 2.5T and a snazzy new aftermarket exhaust system. Replaced his stock manifold with an R one. Dual exhaust tips...looks sweet.

Many thanks to the community for getting me to this point!