Evap purge valve location

jroma · Post by **jroma** » 06 Feb 2019, 13:57

I am attempting to replace the evap purge valve on a 2004 xc90 t6 awd. Being a very visual person, I was wondering if anyone had an actual photo of the location. I've seen many drawings and I have never been very good at determining location from them. It's not on my fan shroud as many of the diagrams show. Again a picture would be extremely helpful.

jroma · Post by **jroma** » 06 Feb 2019, 14:47

Okay ladies and gents. It took a lot of digging around but I finally found it. For those of you having the same problem with the first gen XC90 s T6 all wheel drive and finding this purge valve this is where it's at. Remove the engine cover and all related tubing on the top of the car, kind of like if you were trying to replace the spark plugs. Go in through the driver side and look beneath the intake manifold. If you shine a light between the Middle piping you should be able to see the valve on a metal hook that attaches to the rubber piece on the valve. The electrical connector should be on the left side the hard line is on the bottom and a soft vacuum hose on the right. It's kind of difficult to get this taken apart since you can only really fit one hand in there and if it's old like mine those parts have never been moved and take a little more coaxing. I'll try and post a picture so you see what I'm talking about

Post by **SuperHerman** » 06 Feb 2019, 19:21

Thanks for the post - it should help many others.

jroma · Post by **jroma** » 06 Feb 2019, 19:40

The line diagram was not overly helpful and I figured there were other outside who just need to actually see. Glad I could clear that up.

Jewl1215 · Post by **Jewl1215** » 20 Jun 2019, 11:52

Perfect - Thank you

Jewl1215 · Post by **Jewl1215** » 09 Jul 2019, 14:03

How DIFFICULT was this purge valve to remove and replace? What tools will I need? After removing all the crap off the top of the engine, can it be accessed easy enough without having to remove the air filter box? I have to do my daughters very soon. Should anything else be replaced while replacing this? Thanks. Does it twist out, pop out, have and electrical connection? Do I need to release any fuel pressure before fooling with this, or just disconnect the negative from the battery?

bbigbro3 · Post by **bbigbro3** » 08 Aug 2019, 14:49

Trying to help out my son's GF with this same repair, so I'm repeating the questions Jewl1215 asked: How DIFFICULT was this purge valve to remove and replace? What tools will I need? After removing all the crap off the top of the engine, can it be accessed easy enough without having to remove the air filter box? I have to do my daughters very soon. Should anything else be replaced while replacing this? Thanks. Does it twist out, pop out, have and electrical connection?

Jewl1215 · Post by **Jewl1215** » 15 Aug 2019, 08:15

Wish someone would reply. My daughter is moving to her college dorm this Sunday. I'd like to try to fix this on Friday, but am nervous. I don't want to start and not be able to finish, and have a potential sitting car. Ty to anyone that can shed some light.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 17 Aug 2019, 23:53

It has been about a year since I did mine. If I recall it is a squeeze type fitting, a power harness and maybe a hose that just pushes in although it may have a screw clamp. Looking at the third picture affirms my recollection - the three items are visible in the picture (no screw clamp). The part is held in by that rubber mount - give it a spray of soapy water and it should slide out (mine was pretty aged and ratty).

Best thing to do is go out to the car and stick your hands down there and see what you have to take off. It is right by the starter. I changed all my hoses and the second time I did it I took off less than the first - for ease plan on taking off all the plastic piping. You don't need to take off the plastic spark plug cover.

NOTE: In the first pic you can see the part on the top of the engine - removed. 1/3 from the bottom in the middle laying on the black cover plate over the fuel injectors/rail.

The airbox and piping are super easy to remove - five minutes. You can leave many of the plastic parts connected and pull them off with the top of the airbox - one giant piece. Tools needed are a 10mm, screw driver or 6 or 7mm socket for the clamps, and either a T27 or T30 for the four torx bolts holding the air piping. I could do the repair in 20 minutes - if it was a race less. Figure going slow 1.5 hours tops. Realistically if I was to do it and enjoy the repair 45 minutes start to finish. It is easier to remove everything as one giant piece, but it requires removing the MAF connector and freeing the wiring/harness at the front left of the airbox.

Bottom line - if you can take off the plastic piping and airbox (which basically just pulls up and out) the changing of the part is those three connections in picture 3 above. 1) Electrical Harness - squeeze in the holder (picture shows push down) I believe it is one with the wire spring (not plastic tabs) and pull off unit, 2) fitted elbowed hose - squeeze on both sides at the ridges and pull up and 3) the pushed on hose - just twist to break it free and pull. (I think on this one you can take the unit partially out and move it to get more space (maybe spray it with some soapy water to ease things)). Just be careful on the fitted elbow hose so you don't break it.

Good luck.