2004 V70R won't fire up

[CraigT]

I hope someone here can help me in getting my DD up and running again.
Three weeks back I changed TB and exhaust VVT hub due to oil leak. Procedure was done correctly with locking tool. I’ve done TB’s many times on the 5 Cyl’s with and without the hubs. Timing is spot on. I know because it has fired up four times.
I replaced the starter because of it’s dragging and because VIDA gave me many different codes. Ie cams and crank sensors being three of them. Engine turns over much faster now without any ECM codes.
I’ve replaced the cam and crank sensors, still no start.
I’ve narrowed it down to no control signal at the injectors. I get battery voltage while cranking on both sides of harness plugs.
Fuel pressure is good. Spark is good. Cranks over fine. Harnesses look good. I’m at a loss as to what and where to go next. I’m thinking that the ECM is good, never has offered a problem and I wasn’t in or near it when replacing TB. But I’m not getting the needed injector signals from it. What signal{s} in to the ECM cause it t create the signals out to the injectors?
Thanks

[jimmy57]

Did you remove all the plugs/rags you inserted to keep dirt out while it was down?

[CraigT]

yes

[CraigT]

the problem is I'm not getting the control signal to the injectors. Supply voltage is there, but nothing to cause them to open.

[RickHaleParker]

I’ve narrowed it down to no control signal at the injectors. I get battery voltage while cranking on both sides of harness plugs.

Injectors are normally open circuit, that is why you see battery voltage on both sides. The injectors fire when the circuit is closed. Coils are normally closed and fire on open circuit.

The green wires is the voltage source, it is always high.
The other wire is high most of the time, grounded by the ECM to fire the injector.
Are you sure you are not just missing the short time it is grounded? A voltmeter would not be fast enough to catch the pulse.



Thing you can try:

1. Place a stethoscope on the injectors and listen to them.

2. Disconnect the MAF and try to get it started. Expect a long crank the first time.

3. Disconnect the CPS and try to get it started. Expect a long crank the first time.

4. Could be Lawn Mower Syndrome, pull the plugs and add a teaspoon or so of oil to each cylinder. Reassembly and try to start.

[CraigT]

I used an 1157 wired to control side and ground. When cranking last nite I didn't see any change in lite output. Fuel rail has lots of air and it doesn't clear up. I've changed fuel pump and filter. Pressure was down to app. 20psi at rail, now at 55. Still has air, another indication not opening. What signal in to the ecm causes the ecm to pulse injectors? Plugs aren't wet when pulled and I don't smell fuel.

[abscate]

A light bulb won't work on the injector pulse, its about 2 msec long at idle

Put some ether into the dragon and see if it breathes fire. At least isolate spark from fuel circuit a bit

[RickHaleParker]

I used an 1157 wired to control side and ground. When cranking last nite I didn't see any change in lite output.

The Filament will not cool down fast enough to see the short pluses.

Place the 1157 across the two coil leads. If the control side is doing what it should be doing, the bulb might get a faint glow. Filament retains enough heat between pluses to keep it warm.

You might consider a computer safe logic probe. A incandescent bulb can overload the ports of a control module. The green (ground) would flash with the pluses.

[CraigT]

Ok, I got one of these test lites and just as soon as I find another warm body to crank the engine I'll check for a green lite at the ecu side of the injectors. I'd like to have my old Oscope now. I'd still like to know what signal in controls the ecu output to the injectors. In the beginning of this three week journey all I did was lock the cams and replace an exhaust hub along with the TB. I've had it running three times now. According to VIDA, the pump control module can keep the engine from firing up. I might pull it tomorrow and check for corrosion.

[RickHaleParker]

Ok, I got one of these test lites and just as soon as I find another warm body to crank the engine

In fuse box under the hood, pull the starter relay. Turn key to POS II (Run).
On starter relay socket, jump terminals 3(30) to 5(87) to crank.