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91 240 radiator support replacement...

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
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1990 - 1998 960
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okihiro
Posts: 9
Joined: 22 February 2011
Year and Model: 1991/240..2014/xc60r
Location: purdys, ny
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91 240 radiator support replacement...

Post by okihiro »

hello all,
an accident 3 years ago damaged the radiator support on my 91 240. ive decided to finally get to it and fix it this fall. if let my 240 sit in the driveway for the 3 years and so may things including bolts are rusted. progress is slow and my only 10mm socket is old and stripped.

so im wondering if ther is anything i need to look out for when pulling the support.... like do i need to remove the radiator first or do i need to remove the bumper? im a noob so please excuse the noob questions.

any caution would be greatly appreciated.

best,
chif

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volvolugnut  
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Post by volvolugnut »

First thing is to get yourself at least one good 10 mm socket. Better yet, get short 6 point, short 12 point and deep 6 or 12 point sockets. There are so many 10 mm bolts on these cars and a selection will make all work easier. If money is tight, go to pawn shops or flee markets for used tools of all kinds. Learn the better and worse brands to get even better value.

If your problem is the top hold down clamps for the radiator, then a salvage yard is a good place to get the clamps. If the bottom support is damaged, then look if this support (more of a tray) is bolted in or part of the front cross member. I don't remember how it is attached. In either case, the salvage yard is the place to get these parts. I don't think you will need to remove the bumper. Short answer is: always remove anything that is in the way of what you need to remove. Often you will know the best way after you finish.

volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

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okihiro
Posts: 9
Joined: 22 February 2011
Year and Model: 1991/240..2014/xc60r
Location: purdys, ny
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Post by okihiro »

thank you vln!
the whole support looks damaged and so i have already bought a replacement. yes i see that the one socket that i am missing... the 10mm... seems to be everywhere on the front end. i do have a couple of follow up questions:
- why both 6 and 12 point?
- what is short and what is deep in terms o sockets?

regarding quality, i suppose snap ons would be good? yeah my local flea market is filled with sockets of unknown brands.

best,
chif

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volvolugnut  
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Post by volvolugnut »

Socket answers:
6 point sockets are good for heavy torque and hex heads/nuts that have been or have potential to round the points. However, they only fit six ways to the head or nut. 12 point sockets are good for general use. They are more likely to round the points but they fit head/nut 12 ways for quicker fitting.
Short sockets do not allow the bolt to extend beyond the nut very much without bottoming in the socket. A deep socket gives about an inch or more of extended thread beyond the nut with engagement on the nut. Useful on extra long nut travel like a belt slack adjuster.
Lots of good brands out there - snapon, craftsman, mac, Blackhawk, bluepoint, etc. I avoid Chinese and Taiwan brands, but these are improving. I like the flea market jumbled mess in a box where you can pick your selection of good stuff out of the junk.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

User avatar
okihiro
Posts: 9
Joined: 22 February 2011
Year and Model: 1991/240..2014/xc60r
Location: purdys, ny
Has thanked: 1 time

Post by okihiro »

thank you for the pointers again!
so far i have removed the bolts that i can see and drilled out the two rivets holding the bottom of the support to the fenders.
i think the cables that run in front of the support is now holding it up.
regarding the radiator that the support holds... i think i have to remove that as well? or can i just remove the support from it and let the radiator hang there while i change out the support?

best,
chif

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volvolugnut  
Posts: 6231
Joined: 19 January 2014
Year and Model: 2001 V70
Location: Oklahoma USA
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Post by volvolugnut »

I am not sure just what you are calling the radiator support. A photo would be helpful. However, I will suggest you hang the radiator from something other than let it be supported by radiator hoses. Perhaps hang from ceiling if inside or a 2x4 board spanning between both fenders?

volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

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