Solved [seized AC compressor]- Car Stranded - Won't start, no click, lights on, no push start - 99 s70 base manual trans Topic is solved

[misha]

What is the voltage reading on replacement battery?
You need more than 12.2v to start the car...to be able to crank.

[yanga001]

Have you tried jostling the battery contacts when it wont start. A similar thing happened to my v70 where trying to start the car led to a no crank with no lights on. We were going to try and jump the car but upon moving the contacts all the lights came on. This also later manifested as the car losing power/lights while driving as if it had a bad alternator. Eventually it fully died while turning into a parking lot and after seeing the car gain power after moving the +contact we figured it was corrosion. Cleaned the battery contacts, secured them, and the car runs as it normally does.


Also misha is very right on the voltage, and as Abscate said, the 99's will act strange with low voltage and should have a charged battery. From what i can see its either your battery is dead or one of the cables may be corroded.

[smacknab]

Solved! Sort of lol

So I replaced the starter with a used+tested unit and ended up replacing the battery because turns out mine was dead. At that point it still wasn't turning over, so my friend came over and we took the timing belt cover off and saw everything was lined up, but the accessory belt was sticking a bit when turning the engine. I noticed that after turning the ignition the belt was pulling the tensioner but the belt was then having slack. After that i realized the AC compressor pulley is seized. We pulled the serp belt off and it started up. So, it seems like the AC compressor pulley being stuck had enough resistance on the belt drive to stop the engine from turning? Before I replaced the starter I wasn't getting voltage after the solenoid when turning the ignition, so maybe the resistance from the AC pulley killed the starter or the battery?

Either way, the engine is running, so I think I'll have to drive it home without power steering and hope it makes it the full way on a battery (about 12 miles, 30 mins). When I get home I'll have some type of overhaul on the belt drive components.

I'll have to look into what to do with the AC, like I mentioned I already have a idea alternator to put in.

Thanks again for all the help and I'll post again a follow up!!

Sena

[abscate]

Excellent observational skills and troubleshooting!

You will be fine getting home on a fully charged battery. You can run a few hours on a good charged battery during the day time. If that is your commute, you can charge your battery each day and drive it until you deal with the AC. Hey, it’s a Tesla!

The 1999 takes a new style AC compressor so you will need to source that carefully. I think I have a dead AC compressor that you could have for free that would get you back on the road if we can find a good clutch ( which I also think I have)

[smacknab]

Thanks for the compliment, it definitely felt good! For the AC compressor, I appreciate the offer! I'm curious how I should diagnose if the AC compressor is bad or if I can get away with just doing the clutch. I'll look through the service records to see if the current one has been replaced, maybe I could put your clutch onto my compressor? Or maybe it's worth just swap it out? I found a used one at Nissenbaums for 75$, 90 day warranty. Or would it be worth going with a refurbished one?

[abscate]

With the belt off, grab the ACclutch and see if you can tell if the clutch or the AC is frozen. I’ve found the clutch usually self destructs, the compressor freezes up.

I think I have Kahls short SERP belt which bypasses the AC, that would give you power steering but unfortunately, on a 1999 , the alternator pulley has to be turned the right way to work, contrary to the -1998

Where you getting AC before? No point of putting on a compressor unless you are ready to rework and recharge AC system

[smacknab]

So I ended up putting a 49 inch single sided belt to have the power steering, I'm driving it home this afternoon.

The AC worked pretty well when I bought it, but yeah looking into it looks like a more involved job with alot more replacement parts. I'd prefer to just drive it through the winter, maybe asses the AC again in the spring. Looking into ac-delete brackets and It seems possible to replace it it with an idler pulley, but also the parts seem to come straight from Volvo? So there might not be a huge cost savings. Maybe putting on a broken compressor with a working clutch is the move.

[abscate]

Volvo OEM parts says the clutches on aC are compatible in P80s, so I’m sure we can piece something together