2001 V70XC - Brake line and Caliper Service Topic is solved

Post by **xHeart** » 19 Oct 2019, 14:42

I'm prepared to work with the hard line and flaring, see this DIY viewtopic.php?f=1&t=32317.

The rebuilt calipers arrived. A first look at the two front wheel connections to scope out the challenge:

: MVS_Brakeline_0388.jpg (147.36 KiB) Viewed 1587 times

: MVS_Brakeline_0389.jpg (152.68 KiB) Viewed 1587 times

Post by **cn90** » 19 Oct 2019, 17:53

Couple things:

1. Get new rubber hoses from FCPEuro. Get FTE or ATE brand, which is OEM.
Check to be sure but I think this is the hose:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 0-30665464

2. Spray PB Blaster at the junction between the Brake Hose and the metal bolt.
Do this one week ahead of time to allow the lubricant to penetrate the threads
and you should be able to disconnect it.
Volvo uses Ni-Copp metal, so it is easier to flare than steel.
A bit of heat (propane torch right at the junction for 15-30 sec) should help.
Crack open the bleeder valve a bit to allow brake fluid to escape should you decide to use heat.

If all is well, you do NOT need to cut and flare the line.

I just replaced the 2 metal lines in my 2006 BMW X5 3.0i with 133K.
It was very challenging simply b/c I had never done brake line before.
All tips/tricks are included in this thread below...

DIY: 2006 BMW E53 X5 3.0i Brake Line Replacement
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5- ... ement.html

XC70Rider · Post by **XC70Rider** » 19 Oct 2019, 20:46

As CN90 mentioned spray the metal flare bolt daily for a week.

When I got my P2 early last year both rear calipers were seized. I decided to refresh the whole system and installed 4 new ATE calipers, 4 new ATE hoses, 4 Brembo discs, 8 Hawk ceramic pads, and 2 quarts of ATE SL6 fluid. I didn't have to put a core deposit on the calipers being they were new.

Luckily all the coated brake lines are in good shape with no rust. When I install new brake lines on vehicles I use my Mastercool hydraulic flaring kit.

Post by **cn90** » 20 Oct 2019, 07:57

Study the anatomy of brake line.
The bolt pulls the flared end down into the fitting (the fitting is part of the hose).
So when you spray PB Blaster or WD-40, spray it exactly at the junction of the bolt and the fitting.
This way the fluid gets down to the fitting threads.

I have repaired many brake lines over the years.
As long as you spray PB Blaster etc. one week ahead of time, the bolt should come out easily.

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Post by **xHeart** » 20 Oct 2019, 17:00

I have a pair of ATE hose with matching part number.
Brush cleaned the connection and treated with PB blaster - day 1, here is a pix:

: MVS_Brakeline_0442.jpg (120.47 KiB) Viewed 1617 times

Post by **xHeart** » 20 Oct 2019, 17:10

Thinking ahead, does it help to cut off the hose retainer. If so, I'd order a replacement pair.

Tonyx · Post by **Tonyx** » 23 Oct 2019, 06:56

One tip I can give is that hose nut does not turn when loosening the connection. Hold it with 14mm and turn the brake tube nut with 13mm.

Somehow the 14mm hose nut is indexed into the bracket so it will not turn until the connection is fully loosened.

Looks like your car have had brake hose replaced some time ago based on the rounded fasteners shown in the photo.

Post by **xHeart** » 23 Oct 2019, 11:12

Tonyx wrote: ↑23 Oct 2019, 06:56 One tip I can give is that hose nut does not turn when loosening the connection. Hold it with 14mm and turn the brake tube nut with 13mm.

Somehow the 14mm hose nut is indexed into the bracket so it will not turn until the connection is fully loosened.

Looks like your car have had brake hose replaced some time ago based on the rounded fasteners shown in the photo.

Good catch!
It was me, tried to do this service few years ago, but failed. Feeling better prepared now to try it again.

Post by **oragex** » 23 Oct 2019, 12:30

The hardest part for me was starting the new flex line at the caliper. The threads are so fine, it's very difficult to catch the first one - and meanwhile the fluid is leaking out. Worth cleaning this area really well, and try to attach the new flex hose at the caliper first - at least just to start it, then at the bracket shown in the pics above. Also something to block the open line temporarily - perhaps a small plastic cap - to stop the fluid from leaking during this job. Of course, checking the master frequently because bleeding the air in the master is another job

Post by **cn90** » 23 Oct 2019, 14:10

Re brake fluid dripping...

In the BMW X5 I mentioned above, I used a piece of wood to press the brake pedal halfway down. This will stop brake fluid from dripping. Good trick!