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A handbrake story Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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gcha8e
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A handbrake story

Post by gcha8e »

Sheared off the the threaded end of the e-brake cable
:evil:

The story.
Upon totaling my second car in two years I stumbled upon this Volvo. I liked that it had anti-lock brakes, supreme comfort, and the turbo with AWD. (better brakes could have averted my second incident).

I did not notice however, that the handbrake did not operate. Right after buying it from the previous owner, I then had to take it in to the shop twice for work, and ultimately replaced the pad and the shoe on the handbrake with genuine Volvo parts because the brake would not hold without the Volvo brake shoe. Cost - $500. :roll:

It's been a few years, now I noticed that the handbrake doesn't hold the car on a hill facing downhill. It only holds going uphill. So I decided I'll adjust it because it takes more than 5 clicks to apply the brake .

The result was that after about a revolution and a half on the nut, the end of the cable snapped off. Don't let this happen to you. I now have to redo the cable end or get a new cable and STILL have to figure out the uphill problem. :x
It didn't take much, the cable was already adjusted to max - apparently. :(
It didn't take much, the cable was already adjusted to max - apparently. :(

RichCrewe
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Post by RichCrewe »

I had a bad e-brake/hand-brake for about 10-years, replacing the pads didn't help and I went through about 4 sets over that 10-year period, I'd got used to it and had it down as a quirk of the model. I was replacing the shoes again that I noticed that one of the cables running to the rear was seized, I replaced both of them, after that it actually held on a decent hill. Only one side had been doing anything and the effect of the seized cable on the yoke was that of halving the force to that working side, so 25% of the designed brake efficiency.

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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

Find a threaded sleeve like the one in the HD picture below or the use the long nut on the bolt in your picture and Loctite the two section back together.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Arnold-Univ ... /300614281
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Post by MoVolvos »

Not sure which part it is as there seems to be several sections. Assuming it is #9 it's not available as far this dealer is concerned.
-
https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/show ... evel=24650
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BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
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Post by gcha8e »

@ Rich Crewe I'll have to take a closer look at the rear cables, that's a very good possibility that something is seized up. Thanks.

@ MoVolvos, yes, it's #9 the equalizer bracket and cable. Buying and end piece like you showed seems like a good plan, but it seems like the cable is crimped into the bolt part somehow, and I don't think I'd have the tools for it.... I guess that's another tool to buy?!



As to Loctite, are you referring to super glue? I don't see how that will hold up, it will just break right off. I have some JB Weld as well and I'm sure that would not hold it. It's simple, and I'd try it to just try it, but not going to hold my breath. :P

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Post by gcha8e »

FCP out of stock but googled the part and it's $20
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/9605/12 ... 84-9191484

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Post by volvolugnut »

I think MoVolvos means a coupling nut - a long nut that is fully threaded and can be used to connect the broken ends together. This assumes you have at least some of the threads remaining on both parts. The Loctite he is suggesting is Loctite thread locking compound. It will be applied to the threads when the ends are screwed on the coupler nut. The thread locker will prevent the threads from loosening over time.

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Post by MoVolvos »

volvolugnut wrote: 03 Nov 2019, 17:39 I think MoVolvos means a coupling nut - a long nut that is fully threaded and can be used to connect the broken ends together. This assumes you have at least some of the threads remaining on both parts. The Loctite he is suggesting is Loctite thread locking compound. It will be applied to the threads when the ends are screwed on the coupler nut. The thread locker will prevent the threads from loosening over time.

Volvolugnut
Thanks, that's what I said. Not sure how or if a coupling will fit in the overall system / brackets but that is just one way to reconnect the broken threaded ends. There are smooth coupling and one that looks like a nut so some research will be needed.
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Post by MoVolvos »

gcha8e wrote: 03 Nov 2019, 13:42 FCP out of stock but googled the part and it's $20
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/9605/12 ... 84-9191484
From the Volvo diagrams one can't tell what it looks like. Thanks.
Blessings,

BKM


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Post by - Pete - »

Another thing to consider on these is the "expander" or "dolphin", as this lady calls it, often becomes rusted & basically immobile. The hinge point is essentially just a zinc'd rivet that corrosion affects over time, eventually limiting it's range of motion to nil. They are salvageable, don't cost much new but why buy a new pair if you can rejuvenate the old ones? Takes some media blasting, beating in a vise & some greasing & fiddling around but end result is nice if done right. Then your only cost is a spring set, shoes, and a new lead cable if yours is busted. I haven't seen seized cables in the sheaths ever, it's always been the expander in my experience.
2001 V70XC 200k
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