Back Flushing

waynegarbo · Post by **waynegarbo** » 31 Oct 2019, 12:02

I'm getting ready to flush the evaporator. Is it OK to back flush and leave the liquid line attached to do both at the same time?

Post by **MoVolvos** » 31 Oct 2019, 21:00

waynegarbo wrote: ↑31 Oct 2019, 12:02 I'm getting ready to flush the evaporator. Is it OK to back flush and leave the liquid line attached to do both at the same time?

What occurred to the system so that you are only flushing the Evap and Liquid Line? This video shows flushing is insufficient for the Condenser which means it won't be good enough for the Evaporator either. The filter and dryer is suppose to pick up a few things but not a really contaminated system.

waynegarbo · Post by **waynegarbo** » 01 Nov 2019, 14:46

I am flushing the evaporator first to remove everything then I'm going to pressure test it with a hand vac. If the pressure test fails then I will not proceed any further. This is an old system that hasn't worked for probably 20yrs. I have seen Scotty's video but I don't believe it applies to my condenser because it's an older system with larger passages. I found 3 large shavings on the outside of my orifice tube, that tells me my condenser has large ports. When I did a dye charge, the high pressure never came up which coincides with the shavings from my compressor. The juries not out so I'll flush the condenser and pressure test it also if my evaporator passes. Then i'll flush the hoses. After I install the new compressor, orifice, and dryer, I plan on putting on two filters if I decide to stay with the old condenser. But right now I'm asking if I can leave the liquid line on when I flush the evaporator.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 01 Nov 2019, 22:17

waynegarbo wrote: ↑01 Nov 2019, 14:46
I have seen Scotty's video but I don't believe it applies to my condenser because it's an older system with larger passages... But right now I'm asking if I can leave the liquid line on when I flush the evaporator.

I know it's oversimplified but on car or off and which end do you intend to spray/flush from? How long is your liquid line?
-
https://www.autozone.com/images/MEDIA_P ... iagram.jpg
-

: Auto AC System.png (240.44 KiB) Viewed 1627 times

Post by **MoVolvos** » 01 Nov 2019, 23:01

In thinking about this more, it would be best out of the car and back flush without the low pressure liquid line. Afterwards, I would forward flush the evaporator also.

waynegarbo · Post by **waynegarbo** » 02 Nov 2019, 10:34

I'll disconnect the liquid line and flush the evaporator left in the car because the evaporator is to much for me to remove. In fact if my evaporator fails the pressure test I've decided not to proceed with any other repairs or replacement.

waynegarbo · Post by **waynegarbo** » 05 Nov 2019, 10:30

What's the best way to catch the contents coming out when I flush? Will air pressure blow it all over? Or will it flow out without a mess?

Post by **MoVolvos** » 05 Nov 2019, 10:56

waynegarbo wrote: ↑05 Nov 2019, 10:30 What's the best way to catch the contents coming out when I flush? Will air pressure blow it all over? Or will it flow out without a mess?

This might help with your work.

waynegarbo · Post by **waynegarbo** » 06 Nov 2019, 10:55

This guy left the liquid line as the drain for the solvent because he's going to change it. I'm going to do the math on changing everything and decide.

Post by **jimmy57** » 06 Nov 2019, 15:44

The orifice tube in the line next to strut housing needs to come out if it is not already open there. You can't flush it with orifice in place as that will restrict flow and catch all the debris that might be there.