Resurrecting a 2001 S60 T5 manual Topic is solved

highmiles · Post by **highmiles** » 21 Nov 2019, 14:45

Thanks guys, I will get back out to the garage on Saturday and start working through these items. Will report back. John

highmiles · Post by **highmiles** » 23 Nov 2019, 16:25

Not any real success today, but worked my way through a few things.
I did drop the CEM, pulled the connector, it looked brand new, but still hit it with some electrical contact cleaner.
Tested for resistance across the temperature connector, fully open, so I will leave that for now.
Drained all the old fuel out. To do this I first removed the fuel filter. Then opened the connector at the fuel rail, blew out the fuel line back to the filter. Then I jumped the fuel pump relay and caught the fuel under the car at the removed fuel filter. Put it all back together, added fresh fuel and .... no change.
One observation, it to a long time to pump out the fuel, and the flow was sporadic, I would have thought the flow would have been steady and rapid. I picked up a loaner fuel pressure tester at the local parts place, but at first look, the correct connector for the Volvo sized schrader valve is not one of the available fittings. Any suggestions on rigging it up?
If one was to hit the car with a little starting fluid, where would be the best place to introduce it into the intake? It would be good to hear just a hint of combustion!
Thanks all!

Post by **abscate** » 24 Nov 2019, 04:20

Take the snorkel of after the MAF and give it a 3.14 second blast of ether, the push snorkel back on and hit the key

You can retighten the clamp after the test

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 24 Nov 2019, 16:52

highmiles wrote: ↑23 Nov 2019, 16:25 If one was to hit the car with a little starting fluid, where would be the best place to introduce it into the intake?

Trace the air intake for a vacuum line. Pull vacuum line off, put red tube in hole spray. Don't bother putting the hose back on, crank.

highmiles · Post by **highmiles** » 25 Nov 2019, 08:21

I couldn't dedicate much time to the project this weekend, but was able to cobble together the fuel pressure tester, removed the schrader valve insert and used a short section of hose with clamps, and found that after 3 twists of the key to "run," had a good 50 psi. This was maintained during cranking. Looks like the fuel pump should be good enough to support starting the car.
Not sure I will get back to it soon with the holiday, but next step would be to hit it with starter fluid to confirm combustion, then I will pull the fuel rail and check to see if the injectors are firing. It still feels like a lack of fuel to me...
But then again... the last time I tried to crank it I got a new message, "Immobilizer, see owner's manual," or something to that effect, so will still be paying attention to the check engine codes etc.
Happy Thanksgiving!

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 25 Nov 2019, 09:20

highmiles wrote: ↑25 Nov 2019, 08:21 then I will pull the fuel rail and check to see if the injectors are firing.

Check for the pulses on the injector wiring with a Computer Safe Logic Probe ($10.00) or a Oscilloscope, Cheap ones off eBay will work.

highmiles · Post by **highmiles** » 02 Dec 2019, 12:55

I had an extra day off so was able to get back in the garage.
Took the time to confirm spark at all 5 coils.
Pulled off the fuel rail and fabricated a pan to catch fuel, turned the engine over with my phone on video and was at least able to capture that the injectors are firing. I was less than overwhelmed by the specific output, though it was hard to evaluate on the video. At best I would say I confirmed that the wiring was correct and activating the injectors.
I had another set of injectors (orange) off another car that I swapped into the car. No change.
I pulled off the timing belt cover and reconfirmed the timing.
Finally I hit it with some starting fluid, and got the first indicator that the engine will run, it did not fully start, but the first time I was even able to get a stumble out of it.
I think I am still not getting fuel to the motor. I suspect all the injectors I have are trashed. Given the good psi at the fuel rail this is my best guess. Next step, junkyard, get the old injectors clean or pony up for new?
Thanks all, John

Post by **vtl** » 02 Dec 2019, 13:39

With intermittent CAN-buses communication this car won't run. This has to be addressed first. You may need to send your CEM for rebuild. High speed bus is what engine, transmission, brake and central modules use to talk to each other. Well, take transmission out, since yours is with the stick.

Also ETM was a very excellent Italian point of failure, you may have a bad one.

highmiles · Post by **highmiles** » 03 Dec 2019, 11:32

Thanks vti. When I reset these codes with VIDA I get a message that states that some codes won't be erased until the car is running, so my hope is that I can still at least get the car to start and idle and that will reset these. Visually the CEM looks brand new... but I realize that might mean absolutely nothing. Per the PO, all was working fine until the water pump went up... so any current failure has occurred from sitting idle for a time.

My car is early so does have the MM ETM...

highmiles · Post by **highmiles** » 16 Dec 2019, 09:32

Time for an update!
Thanks again for the guidance, I realized that I had reached that point where all the possible advice to be gained without having eye, ears and hands on the car was given, I just had to move ahead with "the next thing."
I pulled apart the CEM connections several more times and was rewarded with a "yellow" light instead of red when scanned using VIDA.
One fault that stood out to me was the ETM communication module. I could not hear the ETM running the start up test so I popped off the intake hose, manipulated the butterfly by hand and checked again, the ETM was now alive. Seems like it was stuck, even though I cleaned it before assembly. Also was rewarded with a "yellow" light regarding this in VIDA.
Other codes persisted. But now upon cranking without starting fluid I did get a bit more of a hiccup, trying but still not quite there.
Next I rigged up a device to clean the original injectors that involved a clipped harness from another donor, a 9 volt battery, miscellaneous wires, hose, clamps, a large syringe and carb cleaner. Cleaned all these up to where I felt good about the spray pattern. None seemed truely bad though. Pulled the rail and installed these.
At this point I had pulled off the charge tube and still had the intake hose off the ETM. Tried to start it again, same, close but no catch. Went back to the starter fluid introducing it into the end of the manifold at the vacuum port through a temporary hose. Four second squirt, a little stumble... going for broke, how about a 10 second squirt? Lots of cranking, and then out of the blue, she runs! Idle all over the place of course will all the unmetered air coming in but ran for several minutes that way. Shut it down and put all the hoses back in place.
Cranked and it fired back up and settled into a decent idle and revved smoothly!
I shut it back down and checked the codes, it threw out 13, basically all the codes I had seen before plus some new ones. But, on erasing the codes the check engine light stayed off and I was left with two hard faults, Engine coolant sensor and siren communication.
I started to work on buttoning everything back up but ran our of weekend.
I wish I could say that I had identified the real root of the no-start condition. I suspect it was a variety of issue that were improved incrementally as I worked on the "next thing." It was almost like the car "remembered" how to run after the long shot of starting fluid.
Regardless, we can call this topic "solved," I am sure you will see more posts... "is that the throw out bearing howling...???" on this car in the near future.
John

Resurrecting a 2001 S60 T5 manual Topic is solved

Re: Resurrecting a 2001 S60 T5 manual