The ultimate , money, no ambiguity photo of P2 pulley timing mark crankshaft alignment by Ozark Lee, by his Agent cn90

Post by **abscate** » 26 Nov 2019, 09:05

Each time you view this, you owe cn90 $1 , Canadian and also ozarklee $1 US

Remember these marks are NOT top dead center but the clearance position, that is, all pistons low in cylinders below the extended valve train

( added ozark lee , original photo , to the money list!)

Post by **volvolugnut** » 26 Nov 2019, 18:07

My checks in the mail! Dang those are small marks.

volvolugnut

Post by **abscate** » 27 Nov 2019, 04:47

We get Sooooooo many posts that “ I don’t have marks on my crank pulley”

Knowing what you are looking for is the key, here.

Post by **chrism** » 27 Nov 2019, 20:03

Before I remove the old T-belt I rotate everything to put the cam sprockets on their marks and then mark the crank sprocket and adjacent spot on the engine case with a Sharpie.

Post by **erikv11** » 28 Nov 2019, 13:09

That image was first posted to this site in 2012 by Ozark Lee. Send your money to Lee: viewtopic.php?t=50585

It's a great pic and works for a P2 car, but that's a P80 pic.

It'a a bonus we have members with strong Google fu, it's a super useful skill. But it's also potentially misleading when it leads to statements like "this is just how it is" without noting where the information comes from.

Post by **cn90** » 28 Nov 2019, 14:04

The problem with crank marks is that:
- It is dark down there (so do it in full sun light with with a flash light).
- There is a particular angle where one can see both marks, this angle is very narrow.
You have to find it for yourself.
- Eye vision should be good, people with reduced eyesight will have difficulty with this.
- Another trick is slide the camera down and snap photos and review the photos.
- The mark on the AFT side is difficult to see bc it is hidden by the TB.

Anyway, an easier technique is to bring BOTH crank marks into view as shown.
- In the photo below, it is one tooth OFF.
- So mark ONLY the FORE mark with whiteout liquid paper paint (White Circle).
- Then turn the Crank bolt CCW about 1cm, so the whiteout paint (on the FORE mark) lines up with the area just in Front of the engine ridge, i.e. both YELLOW arrows line up.

More in the other thread:

THE EASY WAY TO LINE UP CRANK MARKS FOR TIMING BELT
viewtopic.php?t=83534

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: Volvo.png (2.12 MiB) Viewed 2040 times

Post by **mrbrian200** » 17 Dec 2019, 11:46

chrism wrote: ↑27 Nov 2019, 20:03 Before I remove the old T-belt I rotate everything to put the cam sprockets on their marks and then mark the crank sprocket and adjacent spot on the engine case with a Sharpie.

Even when you know what you're looking for, those marks are still difficult to see once the belt is installed. Marking with a sharpie, which is more highly visible, is what I personally recommend.

Williamad33 · Post by **Williamad33** » 14 Oct 2025, 02:56

cn90 wrote: ↑28 Nov 2019, 14:04 The problem with crank marks is that:
- It is dark down there (so do it in full sun light with with a flash light).
- There is a particular angle where one can see both marks, this angle is very narrow.
You have to find it for yourself.
- Eye vision should be good, people with reduced eyesight will have difficulty with this.
- Another trick is slide the camera down and snap photos and review the photos.
- The mark on the AFT side is difficult to see bc it is hidden by the TB.

Anyway, an easier technique is to bring BOTH crank marks into view as shown.
- In the photo below, it is one tooth OFF.
- So mark ONLY the FORE mark with whiteout liquid paper paint (White Circle).
- Then turn the Crank bolt CCW about 1cm, so the whiteout paint (on the FORE mark) lines up with the area just in Front of the engine ridge, i.e. both YELLOW arrows line up.
https://wincraft.casino/hu/categories/games
More in the other thread:

THE EASY WAY TO LINE UP CRANK MARKS FOR TIMING BELT
viewtopic.php?t=83534

Hey all — great discussion here. Volvo’s long reputation for reliability means many of these older models are still on the road. When restoring or maintaining, I always focus on parts that tend to wear: bushings, suspension components, seals. Also, it’s worth checking if any of the community here has upgraded parts or retrofits that modernize things without losing originality.