Constant Creaking from Front End

estrekal · Post by **estrekal** » 06 Dec 2019, 10:37

Hi everyone,
I'd posted a few months back about having my strut mounts replaced back in July on my 2004 S60 AWD. As far as I know they did the mounts and dampers, but not entirely sure if they changed the bearings or not (it was close to a $900 repair bill, but I'd have to look at the invoice again).

At any rate, after several months, and as it's gotten colder now a little bit, I've been noticed a pretty constant creak coming from my passenger side front end. I can hear it when I'm driving (it's the worst over my paver driveway or in parking lots), but I can also hear it when the car is stopped and I turn the wheel to the right or left. It is louder when turned to the right.

It kind of sounds like a heavy door closing with rusty or ungreased hinges, that's the best way I can think to describe it. It doesn't seem to affect the ride, but it is super annoying. I am wondering if I should take it back to the indie shop that did the strut mounts and have them take a look to make sure everything is okay, but I am also curious if that is the root of the problem? About two years ago, I had some engine mounts replaced and the control arm bushings done at the dealership. I know there are a lot of different components on the front end, so I guess it could be a lot of things. Could be the actual struts, they may be original and I have about 123K on the car now.

Anyway, any input or suggestions would be great appreciated, thanks again, everyone!

-Edan

Post by **oragex** » 06 Dec 2019, 12:27

You may want to test the end links, with a wheel at full turn, grab the link strongly - use some thick leather gloves (Harbor Freight sells some great Hardy full grain gloves for $7) - and shake with force near the top then near the bottom ends. You should feel for any play - car on level surface

May pop the hood and with the engine running, have someone turn the steering quickly left-right (like a DJ with one hand): look at the top plate of each strut that's inside the engine bay : if one rather moves up and down, the spring seat is busted. At $900 for that repair, I would expect the folks to have used some quality parts, but you never know. Cheapo parts will last just that - anywhere from 3 to 6 months. If it needs replaced again, order Sachs or Rein/CRP from Fcpeuro. For the strut bearing, be aware that Lemforder sells a poor unit (usually Lemorder is good for parts), so perhaps try to keep your genuine original ones which should be good for the life of the car, especially in Tx

estrekal · Post by **estrekal** » 06 Dec 2019, 12:48

oragex wrote: ↑06 Dec 2019, 12:27 You may want to test the end links, with a wheel at full turn, grab the link strongly - use some thick leather gloves (Harbor Freight sells some great Hardy full grain gloves for $7) - and shake with force near the top then near the bottom ends. You should feel for any play - car on level surface

May pop the hood and with the engine running, have someone turn the steering quickly left-right (like a DJ with one hand): look at the top plate of each strut that's inside the engine bay : if one rather moves up and down, the spring seat is busted. At $900 for that repair, I would expect the folks to have used some quality parts, but you never know. Cheapo parts will last just that - anywhere from 3 to 6 months. If it needs replaced again, order Sachs or Rein/CRP from Fcpeuro. For the strut bearing, be aware that Lemforder sells a poor unit (usually Lemorder is good for parts), so perhaps try to keep your genuine original ones which should be good for the life of the car, especially in Tx

Thanks Oragex! I appreciate the feedback. I believe the shop did use Genuine Volvo parts when I had them replaced. Again, I'll double check to see if they list out having replaced the bearings or not too on the invoice. I was sort of surprised that it started making so much noise so suddenly! I sure do appreciate the response though, thanks again!

Best,
Edan

estrekal · Post by **estrekal** » 06 Dec 2019, 12:50

As an aside, I do have a set of Lemforder or Meyle (I can't remember which) swaybar links that I've yet been unable to install, are those the end links, or is that different?

Post by **oragex** » 06 Dec 2019, 17:51

Yes, that would be it

estrekal · Post by **estrekal** » 13 Dec 2019, 13:30

Haven't been able to get a good grasp on my swaybar links, but was able to observe the tops of my strut mounts while turning the wheels back and forth (like a DJ). I didn't observe any pulsing up and down from either, just some side-to-side. According to my invoice they did replace the mounts, spring seats, and bearings, so I'm guessing it could be the links, or something just isn't in quite right in the strut assembly. All I know is it's really annoying when the radio is turned down. Thanks again, oragex for the suggestions!

-Edan

Post by **oragex** » 13 Dec 2019, 19:35

Maybe a small test would be to ask a helper to turn the steering , and listed with a small 1/2" dia. tube near the top of the strut (inside the engine bay). One end at the ear, the other near the parts. May locate the noise easier. Can also try listening near the top of the end link the same with the wheel close to full lock. I use this to locate engine noises www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVWY2fMzrpc

Post by **cn90** » 13 Dec 2019, 19:46

My 2004 V70 strut/bearing was gone at 110K.
Not sure what your shop replaced (check the receipt).

In my case, the new Quick Struts (by Sachs, sold at FCPEuro) fixed the problem.
About $250/each quick strut. Very very easy DIY, I wrote the procedure in this forum.

estrekal · Post by **estrekal** » 16 Dec 2019, 12:44

Update: I popped the hood and had my wife turn the steering wheel from side-to-side while I listened. I've determined that the creaking is coming somewhere from the top of the strut tower. Sounds like something is rubbing and when the wheels turn. When we got home, I took a combination wrench and put it on the nut on top of the strut tower and pulled it and pushed it. When I did that, the creaking was very noticeable. I thought for the time being, I would just put some synthetic lube on the moving parts, which seems to have nearly eliminated the noise for now. I'd imagine that is probably just a temporary fix, and I don't want to use any other types of grease or lube that could potentially damage any of the rubber/plastic parts. Thanks again everyone for the suggestions, I sure appreciate you taking the time to respond.