Head Gasket - Overheat Problem Identification??

Fordman · Post by **Fordman** » 06 Jul 2010, 20:35

Forging ahead with the cam lock / timing belt removal job

Spark plugs - #3 has a funny looking deposit

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does something bolt on here?????

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Post by **djm850** » 08 Jul 2010, 12:31

Nope. Not sure what that's for (prehaps someone else will chime in), but the head mates directly below that area. It's a gasketed area and not in the oil path.

Fordman · Post by **Fordman** » 19 Oct 2010, 20:52

Team Volvo, hello again
1998 V70 GLT

New cam seals have been installed, she runs, poorly but expectantly hopeful ...... even thought i know a new short block is in the future ...... now have a vacuum leak = stalling under acceleration & 1,500 PRM idle, no codes ...... - using the poor Volvo under the hood "VACUUM HOSE ROUTING"

Request:
(a) trying to locate vacuum leak, where is the 'CANISTER' and 'SHUT OFF VALVE' ...... how do I find this in the car?

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- had to make a custom tool to resess the seal face .125" past the head side w/o any local connections, pls don't try at home

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- the New Mexico garage has been 95°F at 7 pm for the past 4 mounths ....... it's now lovely ...... know all the vacuum lines need replacement = big job

Thanks to all
-Fordman

Post by **jblackburn** » 19 Oct 2010, 20:58

The canister on a 98 is inside the front left fender just in front of the wheel. You can get to the majority of it from underneath the car - just take the bracket loose.

Fordman · Post by **Fordman** » 20 Oct 2010, 20:05

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Post by **Ozark Lee** » 20 Oct 2010, 20:14

Fordman,

I really like your method of driving in the seal. I tried to use a seal set from Harbor Freight but there simply isn't enough room behind the strut tower on the exhaust side camshaft to make it work and I drove it in with a punch by tapping around the perimeter. Your method looks much preferred.

...Lee

Post by **JimBee** » 20 Oct 2010, 20:24

re: the seal, just get a pvc fitting from the local big box that has a slightly lesser outside diameter than the seal. If you spray silicone around the outside rubber perimeter and smear some grease on the inside camshaft surface of the seal, then get it started. SImply press on it with your pvc sleeve, cap, section of pipe, etc. and it slides home.
You could also use the rim of an energy drink bottle that has about an inch and a quarter diameter. Just cut the top off and use it with the cap off of course, toss the rest.

mcguyverii · Post by **mcguyverii** » 03 Feb 2012, 17:18

I stopped trying to looking at the barely visible crank notch when cylinder head gasket/and or t/belt replacement. Just take it down never mine about lining things up. Before re-assembly rotate crank using 30mm socket to TDC, look at back of cams.(remove dist cap and cam shaft position sensor). Intake cam slot is above, and exhaust is below the seam in upper and lower sections of head. THIS ONLY APPLIES TO HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT!
.

Agrector · Post by **Agrector** » 21 Dec 2019, 11:07

2004 V70 2.5T
Just put everything back to place like 8000 kms ago. (new turbo, new rad, new fluids, new head gasket, head was checked and refurbished, new PCV, new hoses, new coolant temp sensor etc.) It seems I have head gasket problem ago, symptoms are almost the same as in the begining of the article. Before they come up I just realized couple times that the engi9ne bay may hotter than it should be, but it was a host summer so i dont care much. Car is still runing start to take it apart in January. I am really courious what is the cause! Any idea?

Head Gasket - Overheat Problem Identification??

Re: Head Gasget - Overheat Problem Identification??