Everything I read says Loctite red is extremely difficult and requires heat to reverse - don't use it unless you never plan to loosen that connection. Use blue for anything you anticipate reversing. But it also seems "everyone" on mvs uses red and I've seen only red, never blue (or green or purple) on bolts removed from our 2004 XC70 and 1998 V70 T5.
Am I able to break "red" fittings due to their age and in some cases heat exposure over time? They aren't hot when I'm working on them.
Will newly applied red be significantly more difficult to reverse than the old applications I've encountered so far?
Why not just use blue?
threadlocker red or blue
- Rattnalle
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What threads are you thinking about?
Apart from pre applied on new bolts I've actually never used it on the car. I grease and torque mostly.
*Prepares to be roasted*
Apart from pre applied on new bolts I've actually never used it on the car. I grease and torque mostly.
*Prepares to be roasted*
- abscate
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Most of the precoated Volvo bolts like caliper bolts, ball joint bolts , etc aren’t Loctite coated.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- oragex
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It will also depend on the bolt size - i.e. torque. On a smaller 10-12mm bolt, red + 10 years of rust may make it a gamble to remove (shear off). On a large 18mm lets say strut bolt (does need it but just as an example), red paste would make the bolt really difficult to undo (already difficult without the paste). Even blue would be hard to undo. The steering bolt (center one under the airbag) I think it had red one but this big bolt is actually little tight (it's pressing against some soft material). I would get both colors and stick with what comes out from the original bolt. As a fun bonus, there are also some funny 'crushed' nuts, such as the 4 ones securing the brake booster to the firewall. Man these sit on very long studs and are a pain to undo aaall the way off the stud. I've used my electric drill + socket, don't think I have the patience to do this with the ratchet.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- RickHaleParker
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
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vtl
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Loctite Red is not even remotely close to a steel bolt that sat in the aluminum alloy for a decade.
I did add Loctite Red to some bolts, they were a bit more difficult to undo, but nothing really serious.
I did add Loctite Red to some bolts, they were a bit more difficult to undo, but nothing really serious.
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enotslim
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Currently working on brake caliper, strut/steering knuckle and wheel bearing/knuckle bolts all or which were "red" when disassembled.
I wonder if red-treated bolts that are still easy to break reflect surfaces that were not totally grease-free when assembled
Now:
2004 XC70
Then:
1972 144
1988 240 Wagon
1998 V70 T5
2004 XC70
Then:
1972 144
1988 240 Wagon
1998 V70 T5
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