Urgent timing belt trouble

[Mountainman45]

So I'm in the middle of changing my timing belt and I get all the way to the part where I have to remove the crank pulley. Dug around found my 30mm and the cam locking tool. Went to finally take off the crank pulley and nut wouldn't budge! sprayed some PB blast and went to try again and I'm pretty sure I twisted the nut hard enough to move it over one tooth CCW on the belt.. still not broken free and it will not turn Clock wise any further TDC but it will rotate CCW with normal resistance and then back to TDC.... did I just screw myself into a new motor or can I just cut the belt off and move it back to where its supposed to be

[oragex]

[Mountainman45]

I understand the process of changing the belt. I need to know if I just bent a valve or if I'm in the clear

[Georgeandkira]

Man, you used the word "it" too many times.

After I revolve the engine a half turn past alignment (which isn't TDC FYI) and go back to alignment I also add dots to satisfy the old school man in me.

I bet you merely grunted the system a bit and didn't damage anything. The cam locking tool saved the day.

oragex's video instruction is right, you needn't remove the crank pulley. The plastic shield (the small one at the 3 to 6 o'clock position) comes off and there's one pin at the 6 o'clock position which the belt needs to be worked under.

I bet you're fine.

[firstv70volvo]

So I'm in the middle of changing my timing belt and I get all the way to the part where I have to remove the crank pulley. Dug around found my 30mm and the cam locking tool. Went to finally take off the crank pulley and nut wouldn't budge! sprayed some PB blast and went to try again and I'm pretty sure I twisted the nut hard enough to move it over one tooth CCW on the belt.. still not broken free and it will not turn Clock wise any further TDC but it will rotate CCW with normal resistance and then back to TDC.... did I just screw myself into a new motor or can I just cut the belt off and move it back to where its supposed to be

Not sure if you've bent a valve or not yet, depends on how much twisting force on the crank that was apply when the valve was in contact with the piston top.

Some questions

You say you think it slip one tooth but this would not cause valve to piston interference. What did the crank timing look like relative to the timed and lock cams? If the cams are aligned and locked in place you should be able to determine how far off the crank timing is off by the cranking timing belt pulley alignment mark position.

You mentioned you can't turn the crank past TDC, which I am assuming is the timing pulley alignment mark aligned so you've obviously removed the cam locking tool at this point. When the crank pulley is aligned what do the cam timing marks look like. Crank pulley timing mark is not exactly TDC but close.

At this point why not just realign the existing timing belt and check the condition of the engine.

Is your cam locking tool the kind you bolt up to the end of cam slots? Is it okay (not broken)?

One thing I've learned when dealing with the crank pulley nuts, which as mentioned does not need to be removed to replace the timing belt, is to always buy the special crank hold tool even though they tend to be expensive and a low use specialty item. There's just too many other problems (costly too) that can result by not using the hold tool. Those crank bolts are on tight and so much force is required to break them a good holding tool is a must and you need it to torque it back on correctly.
I attached some pictures with the crank pulley removed so you can see the areas that get in the way when installing a new belt with the pulley on. The videos shows how to turn the belt on edge to get past the protruding areas that limit clearance.

[SuperHerman]

Back up a bit - did you lock the crank through the starter or did you rely on the cam lock tool only. This is no no. You can break the cams.

As stated by Georgeandrika - timing set position on your engine is not TDC so there should be no valve contact.

As suggested, if in doubt remove all timing tools and slowly turn the crank by hand. If still in doubt do a leak down test.

Finally, some Volvos will run without code being one tooth off. Most will run and throw a code - I have never heard of bent valves from one tooth off.

[cn90]

Bring the Crank back to mark.

No need to remove the Crank Pulley for TB job.

Just slide the new TB around the little knob on the oil pump. This has been discussed in forum many times.

[Mountainman45]

I ended up just removing the belt and realigning all my timing marks when I installed the new belt and everything runs great