Oh wow!
So the times are gone that water pumps go bad shortly after the belt is done?
One way clutch or pulley?
- toolpusher
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The way I think about it is:toolpusher wrote: ↑24 Jan 2020, 08:32 Oh wow!
So the times are gone that water pumps go bad shortly after the belt is done?
For designs prior to the R.E.A.D. the water pump bearing was constantly loaded by the belt. For the READ design the water pump is coupled to the power steering pump by a steel spring. This design change potentially has a positive impact on Water Pump bearing life.
Which is why I haven't changed the Water pump in either of my 3.2's
I might change the water pump at 200,000 miles just to be on the safe side.
Take care
Paul
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Justtellme
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This is a good list, but I would add transmission flush closer to the top of this list.pgill wrote: ↑24 Jan 2020, 08:18 Here is what I would prioritize
1. Idler Pulley
2. Tensioner and pulley
3. Over Drive clutch for serpentine belt
4. Serpentine belt
5. Thermostat
6. Small coolant hose and O-ring (from heat exchanger to engine block)
7. Anti Drain Valve in oil filter housing
8. Coolant hose that failed for a 3.2 owner with >300,000 miles (I can get you the part number if you need it)
9. One way drive clutch for the Alternator
10. Coolant hoses that connect to the heater core
11. BOT gear oil in the power transfer unit
12. Rear Differential Gear oil change (and get a magnetic drain plug)
13. Haldex Fluid and filter change
14. Spark-plugs
15. Power steering fluid change
16. Brake Hoses and flush the brake fluid
17. Rebuild the Brake calipers
18. O-rings for the Brake Vacuum pump (if they are leaking engine oil)
19. Replace all fuses to prevent electrical gremlins
20. Water Pump
I would start at the top of the list and work down.
Take care
Paul
Patrick
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Patrick,Justtellme wrote: ↑27 Jan 2020, 20:08
This is a good list, but I would add transmission flush closer to the top of this list.
Patrick
That is a fair point.
I've owned my LR2 since new in 2008
The LR2 is based on the Volvo S80 3.2 AWD (Note: I also own a 2010 S80 3.2 FWD)
For the LR2 I've done the following Maintenance
Maintenance for the past 11 years
21 x Engine Oil and Filter
4 x Engine Air filter
2 x Power Steering fluid
1 x Power Steering filter (Reservoir)
2 x Sparkplugs
4 x Cabin Air filter
3 x Brake Fluid Flush
3 x ATF Fluid (15 Qts. total)
2 x Gear Oil Power Transfer Unit
4 x Gear Oil Rear Differential (Magnet added to fill plug)
3 x Front Brake Pads
1 x Front Brake Rotors
2 x Rear Brake Pads
1 x Rear Brake Rotors
1 x Over Drive Pulley Alternator
1 x Over Drive Pulley Serpentine belt
1 x Serpentine belt, Tensioner and idler
1 x Coolant hoses (3 hoses)
2 x Coolant
1 x Thermostat
1 x Intake manifold gaskets (qty 6)
1 x Anti Drain Valve for oil filter housing
Link with more information
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic34130.html
In case you want to see the complete list of Maintenance and Repairs then use this link
https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php ... 370d706774
When I bought the S80 used a little over a year ago I decided to see if the list was accurate and it is very accurate.
The list can be used for all P3 Volvo's with the 3.0T and 3.2
Take care
Paul
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jerryv
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Check out this super good writeup from MVS user Turbo_Boss on this belt biz:
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33363.html
I recently performed this service myself and Id think anyone with decent wrenchin' skills could handle it. An alternator decoupler pulley tool and a stubby 10mm ratcheting wrench (the 6-point tekton is perfect) are the main specialized tools you'll need. FCP euro sells a kit with all the parts needed including the one-way clutch: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 80-oem-kit
Also worth noting my idler pulley just exploded and took the fairly new belt with it at 123k.
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33363.html
I recently performed this service myself and Id think anyone with decent wrenchin' skills could handle it. An alternator decoupler pulley tool and a stubby 10mm ratcheting wrench (the 6-point tekton is perfect) are the main specialized tools you'll need. FCP euro sells a kit with all the parts needed including the one-way clutch: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 80-oem-kit
Also worth noting my idler pulley just exploded and took the fairly new belt with it at 123k.
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They changed the design slightly over the years
But I believe they are all interchangeable
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33867.html
The part numbers for this overdrive pulley are
INA 535 0195 10
FORD 6G9N-6A312-AE
FORD 6G9N-6A312-AF
LAND ROVER LR004305
LAND ROVER LR005993
VOLVO 30750929
VOLVO 30777744
VOLVO 31316803
But I believe they are all interchangeable
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33867.html
The part numbers for this overdrive pulley are
INA 535 0195 10
FORD 6G9N-6A312-AE
FORD 6G9N-6A312-AF
LAND ROVER LR004305
LAND ROVER LR005993
VOLVO 30750929
VOLVO 30777744
VOLVO 31316803
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Cost $365 
- pgill
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I went with a simple one way clutch
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/313 ... FG793.aspx $37.55
But if you want the more sophisticated part then get
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/31316803-MFG40.aspx $99
I've been using the cheaper part on both of my 3.2's for about a year now and it works fine
The difference is that the more expensive part is a one way clutch and a damper to minimize belt movement.
The cheaper part is a one way clutch only.
Note: the tensioner also has a built in damper and it works fine for me
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/313 ... FG793.aspx $37.55
But if you want the more sophisticated part then get
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/31316803-MFG40.aspx $99
I've been using the cheaper part on both of my 3.2's for about a year now and it works fine
The difference is that the more expensive part is a one way clutch and a damper to minimize belt movement.
The cheaper part is a one way clutch only.
Note: the tensioner also has a built in damper and it works fine for me
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The movement on my Tensioner is only slightly more than the expensive OAD (I bought the OAP)
If the difference was as severe as the video then I would have bought the more expensive part
Note: to emphasize the difference the manufacturer may have installed a tensioner without a dampener.
For the Alternator I did buy the more expensive part (extremely small belt with no tensioner)
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