2001 V70XC - 200,000 Miles Makeover Topic is solved

[xHeart]

I'll try and purchase the tools to work efficiently and risk free. Unless your experiences say otherwise, there are four, ECU removal, camshaft locking, crank/camshaft seal tool, and electric torque impact wrench. One suggestion was to NOT buy the crankshaft counter-hold tool, but use impact wrench.

EBay shows Camshaft Locking Tool Kit that includes both cam and crank locking tools, and more:


Would you recommend Harbor Freight's Bauer 8.5A 1/2 In. Heavy Duty Extreme Torque Impact Wrench -- it has good reviews?
https://www.harborfreight.com/85a-12-in ... 64120.html



Progress from last week:

After noticing oil drips under the oil pan surface and wetness along the subframe, an area below the front engine mount, last week. I decided to clean and chalk the oil pan surface to trace the source.

Here are two photos:


1) oil under the pan -- last week...

MVS_V70XC_0746.jpg (133.92 KiB) Viewed 895 times

2) chalked oil pan surface showing oil path from the filter housing -- pictured this morning...

MVS_V70XC_0758.jpg (145.46 KiB) Viewed 895 times

[- Pete -]

I’ll say, it does look like a pretty minor leak. Still, leaks drive me nuts and “usually” are inexpensive to fix. When it comes to a VVT leak though there’s no other way to resolve it.

Reuse the long T55 bolt, but clean it very thoroughly with brake cleaner & allow to dry. You do not want to have lubricated threads which will give you a false torque reading.

Harmonic balancer nut - reuse.

Crank locking tool is unnecessary, but you will need an impact, a pretty strong one.

ECU removal & tool is unnecessary. But if you insist, Matthew has one you can borrow.

I can’t see your eBay cam locking tool. I have seen horror stories about the cheap cam locking tools breaking.

I don’t have that HF impact. I have the cheap little $30 one that has the ugly red/brown plastic housing. I have not tried the $30 one on the crank nut. I don’t know what that one you mentioned is rated at but you can never have to much power with an impact.

Yes, I completely concur that the crank locking tool is a waste of money if you have an impact. Way I see it, you can use an impact for a hell of a lot more things than a crank locking tool. For the crank nut (which you don’t need to replace, by the way) I use an air impact. I’ve never tried my 2 smaller impacts on it. I just go straight for my 3/4” impact. I want it to bust loose and have the belt/cams move as little as possible.

Do not use the impact on the harmonic balancer nut with the cam locking tool in place. Break that crank nut loose before you lock the cams. Mark your nut & harmonic balancer with a white paint marker prior to busting it loose so you can line it back up during reassembly. Same goes for tightening the crank nut - tighten it with the cam locking tool OFF the rear of the head. I’ve always used my impact to tighten it back down & have done so more times than I can recall. That’s the purpose of having white paint marks on your harmonic balancer & crank nut. Get them lined back up, or as close as you can & call it a day.

You’ll need a puller of some sort to get the crankshaft timing belt pulley off the nose of the crank as well. You’ll need a puller that you can “lock” the jaws on. The rear face of the pulley is “sloped” or “domed” so a puller that does not have “lockable” jaws will just slip off of it.

This is the exact setup I’ve used for the crank pulley

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You could possibly get by with a crank gear puller as well, just saying be prepared for that particular pulley.

Another alternative is, once the crank nut is off, leave the 4-small 10mm bolts attaching the harmonic balancer to the crank pulley. Then use a 3-jaw puller to pull on the harmonic balancer which will then draw the crank pulley off as well. I’ve never done this, simply because I don’t like the idea of using a puller on the harmonic balancer which has a rubber damping section to it.

By the way, I didn’t see rear cam seals in your parts list. Mine weren’t leaking, but there aren’t too many opportunities like this where they will be totally exposed & easily replaced. To replace, just use a sharp straight pick, tap it into the flat face of the seal, not too far though, creating a hole. Then screw a drywall screw into it & pull it out. New seals get seated all the way in. I just used an appropriately sized socket.

[shiloh51933]

When using the crankshaft counterhold tool you have to remove the starter to install tool, so yes its an extra procedure. Sometimes you can get by with a good 1/2" impact wrench whether it's air/cordless. I have the rear cam locking tool set that comes with the crankshaft locking tool, plus everything else. I had to use the crankshaft locking tool in the past, sometimes the crankshaft pulley nut doesn't want to budge...even with my Mac Tools air impact or my Milwaukee cordless 1/2" impact generation 2 with 1800 ft lbs of breakaway torque. It sounds like you might just have a leaky oil filter, so maybe you wont need replace mentioned parts.

[xHeart]

Thank you!

CORTECO seals will save over Volvo's -- $8 v $21.

Oil leak monitoring is ongoing, since a slight wetness has emerged at the base of TB inner cover after the last week's cleanup. The oil filter and seal were Mahle, but from Amazon.

Breaking crankshaft nut appears daunting -- Bauer delivers 1050 ft. lbs. bolt breakaway torque. Would asking a local tire shop to break loose the nut for a fee then drive home and DIY a possible scenario?

Good tools add to quality of life.

[- Pete -]

Do you have an air compressor?

If it was me, I’d definitely sit on that nut for a while with your electric impact. Just so you know if you have the ability right at home to do it, for future reference. Sometimes it takes quite a few hits, but the little impacts can surprise you.

I suppose you could have a nearby shop knock it loose with a large impact, then have them set it back on there with just a couple soft pulls of the trigger. Then your electric one should be able to blast it off.

[shiloh51933]

Thank you!

CORTECO seals will save over Volvo's -- $8 v $21.

Oil leak monitoring is ongoing, since a slight wetness has emerged at the base of TB inner cover after the last week's cleanup. The oil filter and seal were Mahle, but from Amazon.

Breaking crankshaft nut appears daunting -- Bauer delivers 1050 ft. lbs. bolt breakaway torque. Would asking a local tire shop to break loose the nut for a fee then drive home and DIY a possible scenario?

Good tools add to quality of life.

Yes 1050lb ft of breakaway torque should technically suffice but that nut in particular on any vehicle can freeze up but I'd give a try with that electric Harbor Freight impact. My older brother purchased an electric impact(1/2") from the HF catalog 30 years ago and it still works fairly decent.
A local indy might crack it loose for you but I'd give it a shot myself. You can do it.

[vtl]

I just removed yet another nut with my 8 Amp electric impact wrench from Sears. Didn't see yet so badly frozen crank nut that this impact won't do it.

[xHeart]

Volvo says the front cams use same size seal, pn 9458309, even though only exhaust is VVT -- can anyone confirm?

The designated beast nut -- starting penetrating oil treatment:

MVS_V70XC_0748.jpg (124.07 KiB) Viewed 867 times

[- Pete -]

I ran into the same seal ambiguity when I looked up seals for the single VVT 2.4T. I just ordered both seals that were listed as “fits”. $10 more and you will prolly end up with 1 for sure, but maybe 2 sets that both fit. You could also post a question in the Q&A section on FCP. They usually answer within 24 hours.

Hit that spring pin (almost called it a spring roll but that was Thai the other night) with a wire wheel or plenty of lube before you try to walk that pulley off there. The spring pin is what hangs it up the most. I’ve never used a puller on that particular pulley. Always just my one hand plus one more & it wiggles off.

[BlackBart]

The Alfa Romeo guys swear by Corteco seals. It's the only one for the rear main seal, etc.