Temp sensor @ "4 " o'clock

[tailor]

Pcv completed
Eratic idle, poor km/l, 12ltrs/100km and "4" o'clock temp setting.
Car is not stalling at all!

codes thrown
A2: Motronic 4.3 system
232 Long term fuel trim, idling
233 Long term idle air trim (Haynes: out of control range)
315 EVAP system (it's hissing)
241 EGR system flow malfunction

I think that some codes may be related to vacuum hose,but I cannot put my finger on it.I have ordered the Stylinmotors silicone vacuum kit and await its arrival.

I completed the speedo fix, my temp gauge is now at "4" instead of the ''3" o'clock position. I replaced the thermostat(87 degrees , Wahler) and the temp sensor this last weekend, total time one hour. This was after searching for the new thermostat for 45 minutes (note to self: keep all parts in one place.
The temp gauge still reads at "4" o'clock. I have just finished testing the old gauge(90 degrees) and it appears to be working ok(seems as I have a spare).
I have used the Prestone Premix coolant, I hope that this is not the root cause of my problems. I did notice that my coolant cap has a crack in it and I will replace it in a day or two,this may also have some part in the problem.

The temp gauge falls to about a 1/2 inch off from the bottom of the white line when the ignition is turned off. I wonder if this is a case of the whole speedo unit being bashed around too much (I was very gentle )When I start the car in the morning it takes about 3 minutes for the gauge to start moving. I was getting intermittant use of the heater, now it appears to be working well because I have replaced my missing outside temp sensor, this attaches to cabin/pollen filter bracket, and yes the dreaded flashing lights are still present. See codes below, I believe the blowerfan relay is on its way out.

The turbo boost gauge reads at noon when the car is off and settles in at about "11" o'clock at idle and will rise into the white zone If I stomp on the gas.I think that this is normal.

I pulled codes from B1 :Electronic climate control

417 Passenger's side interior temperature inlet fan seized
418 No control signal to blower fan power stage

B2: 122.(this is ok)
B5: 111 (no fault)
B6: could not get a code

Would appreciate any input form readers of the forum.



I just saw this picture that I took of my speedo when I was doing the repair
The temp gauge is sitting higher in the pic than it does in the car when the ignition is off. I think I might have been the problem!!!

Tailor

[tailor]

I dove headlong into getting silicone intercooler and vacuum tubing from
Stylin Motors ( http://www.stylinmotors.com ) ( A little punt for good service!!!!) and started slicing and dicing to put the tube pieces in.
I have put all but two of the intercooler hoses on and have slowly started replacing the vacuum tube and securing it with cable ties. The turbo hoses are next.
My idle has improved dramatically, no longer surging(racing), unfortunately I am still getting a A2: 232 code but I will push on to see if I can resolve it.
L/km is still 11.8 which is not great, but as I have said before Toronto traffic is brutal.
The Egr malfunction was due to a loose vacuum pipe at the fan shroud.
Silicone tube and cable ties now ensure a good grip. No further codes thrown here.

My Evap code has not reappered, I swapped out my charcoal canister and Evap purge valve( all from the wreckers) and all is looking good, with no hissing either.

No longer getting any codes from ECC B1 socket see post:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... hp?t=13879

I still have to address the temp gauge sitting at 4'o clock, but will wait for warmer weather.......maybe!

Tailor

[MadeInJapan]

Temp display at 4:00 is typical of a failing thermostat, but higher to begin with is most likely the problem here. Anyway to lower it to "o" when your car is off?

[tailor]

Temp display at 4:00 is typical of a failing thermostat, but higher to begin with is most likely the problem here. Anyway to lower it to "o" when your car is off?

Ok! so just to claify it is now at the 2'o clock reading.(born in the Southern Hemisphere , everything is is opposite there!)

MIJ thanks for the input, I am sure that "Mia Culpa" is in order here.
I have replaced both the temp sensor T-stat just in case, as mentioned in a previous post.
The first time I had the cluster out I knocked the temp needle, I believe this was the root of my problem. It showed 4' o clock on re-installation
The second time I had the cluster out, I tried to correct the postion at rest, but think I overdid it and it showed at 2 o 'clock.

Basically you have to take the cluster apart far enough to remove the front glass/plastic and manually move the needle.
I know that this approach is far from scientific and maybe like Trout or Salmon fishing with a stick of dynamite

I only irks me little bit now, so I will get to it in time.