Installing sway bar end links

CSDentonTX · Post by **CSDentonTX** » 24 Feb 2020, 09:54

Purchased the new end links from FCP Euro. Went with the Lemfoerder because they seemed to have a good reputation and were reasonably priced. This raised a couple questions, though.

Can this or should this be done with the vehicle on the ground? I've seen people on YouTube do it. On our Honda, I did it off the ground, but had to really pry the sway bar back into position. Is that going to be an issue regardless of whether it's on the ground or not?

The package came with this set of "Mounting instructions" from Lemfoerder, which aren't exactly clear. Seems like they could have had a sentence in three or four languages and that would helped. Is it telling me to not use an impact, or not use an adjustable wrench or what?

In the second image, it is showing a torx, but I don't see any torx slots on the end link. Is this just a generic picture. What is it trying to tell me there?

: Lemfoerder instructions for installation of sway bar end links for Volvo 960; IMG_9148m.JPG (61.74 KiB) Viewed 2114 times

Post by **jimmy57** » 24 Feb 2020, 11:56

If both sides are off the ground then the sway bar will not need to be pried. That happens when one side is not at the same position as the other a that when the sway bar gets twisted. The threaded ends use locking nuts. The ends of the threaded studs should have Torx in them to use to hold the stud still so you can use a wrench to unscrew the nuts on old ones and for tightening the new ones. You can use Vise-Grips on the old ones the grip the studs as you are tossing those but the new ones will get damaged if you don't use the torx end for counterholding it. Impact wrenches can be used for removal but if you spin the ball in the socket ends on the new one it can damage them and loosen them.

CSDentonTX · Post by **CSDentonTX** » 24 Feb 2020, 12:20

jimmy57 wrote: ↑24 Feb 2020, 11:56 If both sides are off the ground then the sway bar will not need to be pried. That happens when one side is not at the same position as the other a that when the sway bar gets twisted. The threaded ends use locking nuts. The ends of the threaded studs should have Torx in them to use to hold the stud still so you can use a wrench to unscrew the nuts on old ones and for tightening the new ones. You can use Vise-Grips on the old ones the grip the studs as you are tossing those but the new ones will get damaged if you don't use the torx end for counterholding it. Impact wrenches can be used for removal but if you spin the ball in the socket ends on the new one it can damage them and loosen them.

Definitely no torx end on the end of the threaded part.

Makes me tempted to counterhold it with an open-ended wrench from behind. See the picture

: IMG_9149m.JPG (40.05 KiB) Viewed 2110 times

CSDentonTX · Post by **CSDentonTX** » 24 Feb 2020, 14:11

I am realizing I don't have torque specs for the 1995.

The Volvotips page has this instruction for the 1994, but the diagram looks a lot different than the 1995, and mentions a distance of 1.7in or 42mm between the washers. I don't think I have washers.

http://www.volvotips.com/service-manual ... anual.html

This thread for the 1998 v90 has 37ft lbs for the "Anti-roll Bar-to-Spring Strut Nut" which sounds OK to me if we're talking about the right part. It's a little tighter than the Honda's, but it's a much heavier car. Anyone have better info or does that sound "about right"?

viewtopic.php?t=31337

Post by **jimmy57** » 24 Feb 2020, 19:55

Lemforder I have used had the torx but no flats. That style is easier as you can hold them with a wrench while tightening the nuts.
10 mm fastener standard torque is 35-38 lb-ft so that is a good spec you found

Post by **amblerman** » 24 Feb 2020, 20:26

CSDentonTX wrote: ↑24 Feb 2020, 12:20
jimmy57 wrote: ↑24 Feb 2020, 11:56 If both sides are off the ground then the sway bar will not need to be pried. That happens when one side is not at the same position as the other a that when the sway bar gets twisted. The threaded ends use locking nuts. The ends of the threaded studs should have Torx in them to use to hold the stud still so you can use a wrench to unscrew the nuts on old ones and for tightening the new ones. You can use Vise-Grips on the old ones the grip the studs as you are tossing those but the new ones will get damaged if you don't use the torx end for counterholding it. Impact wrenches can be used for removal but if you spin the ball in the socket ends on the new one it can damage them and loosen them.
Definitely no torx end on the end of the threaded part.

Makes me tempted to counterhold it with an open-ended wrench from behind. See the picture

IMG_9149m.JPG

To add to this:

jimmy57 said "If both sides are off the ground then the sway bar will not need to be pried. That happens when one side is not at the same position as the other a that when the sway bar gets twisted. "

To expand on what jimmy57 said.... if you only have one side jacked up, then you will find the top of the sway bar to be higher on one side than the other. Now there is a lot of tension in the system (what jimmy57 described as twisting) because one side is on the ground and other side is in the air.
This would cause it to be very difficult to get the the sway bar end into the hole of the sway bar.

Even if you have both sides off ground you might find the sway bar link and sway bar are misaligned slightly. When I did mine, I seem to remember needing to raise up the hub just slightly to get the holes to align .. I did this with a second jack I had an but it under brake rotor . I just jacked it up about 1/2 inch max. Not a big deal if you have a second jack.

As jimmy57 says: Impact ok for removal (if replacing). Don't use for putting it on though. (actually you could if and only if you had a secure way to make sure you didn't spin the joint. And since that is risky, just use a ratchet. )

If yours doesn't have a torx hole, you will be using the flats. However, you want a thin wrench.
If you have flats on your sway bar link, measure it. Then find a decent bike store and buy a cone wrench. ~$5-$8.

Looks like a regular wrench but is about thickness of a quarter.

See below.
They are very thin and can get onto the sway bar link without much risk of damage to the boot. It's been a while since I've done one and I can't remember what else you'd have to clear to use a normal wrench but it works fine for a cone wrench.

: cone.png (25.61 KiB) Viewed 2097 times

CSDentonTX · Post by **CSDentonTX** » 25 Feb 2020, 10:22

Thanks. That looks exactly what is needed for this. I'm thinking a normal wrench is probably thin enough, but that one will help. I appreciate everyone's help.

Post by **amblerman** » 25 Feb 2020, 10:39

CSDentonTX wrote: ↑25 Feb 2020, 10:22 Thanks. That looks exactly what is needed for this. I'm thinking a normal wrench is probably thin enough, but that one will help. I appreciate everyone's help.

What happens with a regular wrench is that as you tighten the sway bar link, the regular wrench can get pinched between the strut tower and the link boot. Just watch out for that. The thin cone wrench doesn't eliminate that risk entirely but does minimize it.

This is where the wrench can get stuck btw.

: stuck-locations.png (372.3 KiB) Viewed 2088 times

Truth be told, the best tool for this job would be a cone wrench that was ground down so it wasn't as wide. The cone wrenches are wide to add strength because it's so thin. But for this job it would be great if it was both thin and narrow at same time . But then strength might be an issue.

like this.

: cone-trimmed.png (27.06 KiB) Viewed 2089 times

edited to add photo showing where a wrench can get pinched and stuck.

CSDentonTX · Post by **CSDentonTX** » 25 Feb 2020, 14:10

I saw that Home Depot has "super thin" wrenches from Capri tools in various sizes. They look a little beefier if not quite as thin. Was thinking it might be a good middle ground.

Good clear pictures, btw.